This interactive map of Fez (Morocco) brings together 138 hand-picked places: 47 attractions, 42 restaurants, 22 cafés and 27 shops. It also includes 5 walking routes with their stops in order. For every place you get what it is, a practical tip and how to get there by public transport. It is free, works on your phone and needs no sign-up.
Tap a route to see it drawn on the map, stop by stop.
The Fez photoBab Boujloud
The Blue Gate · Fes el-Bali
Blue outside, green inside: the 1913 gate everyone walks through to enter the most labyrinthine medina on earth.
Tip: Step through and pick a side: right is Talaa Kebira (the wide one), left is Talaa Seghira (the calm one). Both end at Al-Qarawiyyin.
🚇 Bab Boujloud taxi rank · bus 19 from the Ville Nouvelle
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Marinid masterpieceMedersa Bou Inania
Bou Inania Madrasa · Talaa Kebira
The 14th-century Marinid jewel and the only mosque-madrasa in Fez non-Muslims can enter. Carved cedar, zellige and marble.
Tip: Go early: at 9am the courtyard is empty and the light rakes across the zellige. Closed during Friday prayers.
🚇 Bab Boujloud · 3 min walk along Talaa Kebira
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1357 mysteryDar al-Magana
The water clock · Talaa Kebira
Thirteen cedar corbels and thirteen brass bowls: the 1357 water clock nobody has managed to restart.
Tip: It is right across from Bou Inania and unsigned: look up to first-floor height or you will walk straight past it.
🚇 Bab Boujloud · 3 min walk along Talaa Kebira
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Perfect zelligeMedersa Al-Attarine
Al-Attarine Madrasa · Souk el-Attarine
The finest madrasa in Fez (1325): a tiny courtyard where stucco, cedar and zellige are pushed to their limit.
Tip: Climb to the roof terrace: one of the few spots where you can see Al-Qarawiyyin's green roof.
🚇 Bab Rcif · 7 min walk along Talaa Kebira
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1670 dormitoryMedersa Cherratine
Cherratine Madrasa · Qarawiyyin
The 1670 Alaouite madrasa, austere and huge: three courtyards and 120 cells that housed Al-Qarawiyyin's students.
Tip: Almost nobody goes in, and it explains student life best: ask to see the upstairs cells.
🚇 Bab Rcif · 5 min walk along Talaa Kebira
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The first of allMedersa Seffarine
Seffarine Madrasa · Place Seffarine
Morocco's oldest madrasa (1271) and still in use: an Andalusian house courtyard with a pool in the middle.
Tip: The door is an unmarked slab of wood off the coppersmiths' square: knock and ask, they usually let you in.
🚇 Bab Rcif · 5 min walk
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The Andalusian sideMedersa es-Sahrij
Es-Sahrij Madrasa · Andalous quarter
Across the river in the Andalusian quarter: the madrasa of the pool, with the oldest Marinid zellige still standing.
Tip: Cross the Oued Fes at Bab Rcif into the Andalous: it is the half of the medina almost no tourist walks.
🚇 Bab Rcif · 9 min walk
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859 · Fatima al-FihriAl-Qarawiyyin
Al-Qarawiyyin Mosque & University
Founded in 859 by Fatima al-Fihri and recognised by Guinness as the oldest continuously operating university in the world.
Tip: Non-Muslims cannot go in, but from the Bab Chemaine and Bab Boujat doorways you see the whole courtyard.
🚇 Bab Rcif · 7 min walk
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1,100 years of booksBibliothèque al-Qaraouiyine
The world's oldest library
Ninth-century manuscripts locked away for 1,100 years, brought back to life by Fassi architect Aziza Chaouni.
Tip: The reading room and café are public even if the rare collection is not: enter from the Place Seffarine side.
🚇 Bab Rcif · 5 min walk
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The founder of FezZaouia de Moulay Idriss II
Zawiya of Moulay Idriss II · Souk el-Attarine
The spiritual heart of Fez: the tomb of the city's founder, ringed by a horm where the lanes narrow to elbow width.
Tip: Look for the low wooden bars across the lane mouths: they marked the sacred limit where no one could ride in.
🚇 Bab Rcif · 8 min walk along Talaa Kebira
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Fountain and cedarFunduq al-Najjariyyin
Nejjarine Museum of Wood · Place Nejjarine
An 18th-century caravanserai restored as a museum of wood, with the most photographed mosaic fountain in Fez at its door.
Tip: The museum is fine, but the 10-dirham rooftop is the real deal: mint tea and the whole medina at your feet.
🚇 Bab Rcif · 9 min walk
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Hammers and copperPlace Seffarine
The coppersmiths' square
You hear it before you see it: twenty hammers beating brass and copper under an olive tree, as they have for eight centuries.
Tip: Sit at the corner café with your back to the olive tree: it is the best place to record the sound of Fez.
🚇 Bab Rcif · 5 min walk
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The colour vatsChouara Tannery
Chouara Tannery · Blida
The image of Fez: a hundred stone vats of lime, dye and pigeon guano, worked barefoot since the 11th century.
Tip: The sprig of mint at the door is free and so is the view: the '100-dirham compulsory tip' is not a thing, 20 is plenty.
🚇 Bab Rcif · 10 min walk
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No hard sellTannerie de Sidi Moussa
Sidi Moussa Tannery · Nejjarine
The small tannery almost nobody finds: same vats, same smell, zero salesmen pushing a leather jacket on you.
Tip: You go up a staircase behind Place Nejjarine; if someone says it is shut, they want to take you to Chouara — insist.
🚇 Bab Rcif · 8 min walk
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Small and quietTannerie Ain Azliten
Ain Azliten Tannery · Ain Azliten
The third tannery, where white goatskin is cured: small, quiet and ten minutes from Bab Boujloud.
Tip: The Ain Azliten car park is where a petit taxi drops you if you have luggage: two minutes downhill and you are inside the medina.
🚇 the Ain Azliten car park · 2 min walk
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Sunset over the medinaTombeaux Mérinides
Marinid Tombs · North hill
The best viewpoint in Fez: 14th-century ruins on the hill and, below, all 9,000 lanes of Fes el-Bali end to end.
Tip: Arrive 45 minutes before sunset and stay for the adhan: hundreds of minarets call almost at once.
🚇 Bab Guissa · 7 min walk
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Fort and panoramaBorj Nord
Borj Nord · Arms Museum
A 1582 Saadian fortress turned arms museum, with 5,000 pieces and an esplanade facing the medina head-on.
Tip: If you are going to the Marinid Tombs, walk between the two: 12 minutes along the wall with the view the whole way.
🚇 the Ain Azliten car park · 10 min walk
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Viewpoint in the olivesBorj Sud
Borj Sud · South hill
Borj Nord's forgotten twin, set among olive groves: the same medina panorama, facing the morning sun, and nobody there.
Tip: Late September is olive season: the groves on the climb are loaded and you can watch the hand-beating harvest.
🚇 Bab Jdid · 10 min walk
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Fez blue ceramicsMusée Batha
Dar Batha Museum · Batha
A 19th-century summer palace reopened after years of works: the best collection of Fez blue ceramics, around an Andalusian garden.
Tip: The garden with the ancient holm oak is free, and the only shade and silence between Batha and Boujloud.
🚇 Bab Boujloud · 4 min walk
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Shade and waterJnan Sbil
Jnan Sbil Gardens · Fes el-Jdid
The 18th-century royal garden between the two medinas: palms, bamboo, a lake with waterwheels and the only serious shade in Fez.
Tip: Free, and it closes early outside summer: go in at the Boujloud gate and out at the Bab Semmarine one.
🚇 Bab Dekkakin · 9 min walk
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The 7 golden doorsPlace des Alaouites
Royal Palace · Dar el-Makhzen
Seven gilded bronze doors over zellige and cedar. You cannot go in, but the façade is THE Fes el-Jdid photo.
Tip: The brass reads best in afternoon light. Photographing the doors is fine — the guards and the interior are not.
🚇 Bus 9 or 19 to Place des Alaouites · red petit taxi from Batha
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Balconies on the streetMellah de Fès
The Mellah · Fes el-Jdid
Morocco's first Jewish quarter (1438): wooden balconies facing the street, something the rest of the medina never has.
Tip: Walk Rue des Mérinides end to end and look up: the balconies are the quarter's architectural signature.
🚇 Place des Alaouites · 4 min walk
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17th-century mikvehSynagogue Ibn Danan
Ibn Danan Synagogue · Mellah
A 17th-century synagogue restored by UNESCO: wrought-iron bimah, painted cedar ceiling and a mikveh in the basement.
Tip: Ask the keeper to open the mikveh hatch and let you on the roof: you see the whole white cemetery.
🚇 Place des Alaouites · 5 min walk
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Restored in 2013Slat El Fassiyine
Slat El Fassiyine Synagogue · Mellah
The Fassi synagogue, 17th century, restored in 2013: stained glass, horseshoe arches and a silence you do not expect.
Tip: It is a hundred metres from Ibn Danan and almost nobody visits: do both in the same half hour.
🚇 Bab Semmarine · 3 min walk
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A sea of white tombsCimetière juif de Fès
Jewish Cemetery · Mellah
Thousands of whitewashed tombs terraced down the hillside — one of the strangest, most beautiful sights in Morocco.
Tip: Entry is free but a tip for the keeper is appreciated; there is a small Mellah museum at the far left.
🚇 Place des Alaouites · 4 min walk
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Dates under the archBab Semmarine
Bab Semmarine · Fes el-Jdid
The huge gate that opens Fes el-Jdid's shopping street: the date and olive stalls start right under its arch.
Tip: Late September brings the new Erfoud dates: ask for medjool and taste before you buy — they always let you.
🚇 Bab Semmarine · 2 min walk
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Marinid gateBab Dekkakin
Bab Dekkakin · Mechouar
The 1276 Marinid gate between the Mechouar and the old palace: two huge towers and an esplanade where kids play football.
Tip: Beige shared grands taxis to Meknes and Sefrou leave from here if you want a day out of Fez.
🚇 Bab Dekkakin · 2 min walk
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Festival stageBab Makina
Bab Makina · Mechouar
The sultan's old arms factory, now the open-air stage of the Fes Festival of World Sacred Music.
Tip: The Sacred Music Festival is in June; the rest of the year the esplanade is open and empty — a stunning sunset shot.
🚇 Bab Dekkakin · 3 min walk
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The oldest oneBab Mahrouk
Bab Mahrouk · Place Bou Jeloud
The 1204 Almohad gate, the oldest still standing, with the pots-and-pottery market pressed against the wall.
Tip: Buses 19 and 47 stop here: if you arrive by bus, Bab Boujloud is a three-minute walk away.
🚇 Bus 19 or 47 to Bab Mahrouk · 3 min walk from Bab Boujloud
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North gateBab Guissa
Bab Guissa · North medina
The north gate, with its Marinid mosque and madrasa and the cemetery climbing towards Palais Jamai.
Tip: It is the easiest way in from the Marinid Tombs: walk down and you are ten minutes from Chouara.
🚇 Bab Guissa · 2 min walk
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The real way inBab Rcif
Bab Rcif · Place R'cif
The medina's hinge square: taxis stop here, the covered river is crossed and the Andalusian quarter begins.
Tip: If you get lost in the medina, ask for R'cif rather than your riad: everyone knows it and you can re-orient from there.
🚇 Place R'cif petit taxi rank · bus 16
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Road to the pottersBab Ftouh
Bab Ftouh · Southeast
The southeast gate and its vast hillside cemetery; below, the pottery market and the road to Ain Nokbi.
Tip: Petits taxis to Ain Nokbi, the potters' quarter, leave from here: ten minutes and small change.
🚇 Bus 12 to Bab Ftouh · petits taxis on to Ain Nokbi
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Fez for the FassiBab Sidi Boujida
Bab Sidi Boujida · Northeast
The northeast gate, the most local of them all: food stalls, neighbourhood cafés and zero tourist bazaars.
Tip: Come late afternoon: the snail (babbouche) and sfenj stalls set up right here at a tenth of Boujloud prices.
🚇 Bab Sidi Boujida · 2 min walk
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The mother streetRue Talaa Kebira
Talaa Kebira · The medina's artery
A kilometre and a half downhill from Bab Boujloud to Al-Qarawiyyin, through every souk. The street of Fez.
Tip: Always walk it downhill, never up. When you hear 'balak!', hug the wall: a loaded donkey is coming.
🚇 the Ain Azliten car park · 6 min walk
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The other sisterMosquée des Andalous
Andalusian Mosque · Andalous
Founded in 859 by Mariam al-Fihri, Fatima's sister: Al-Qarawiyyin's forgotten twin, across the river.
Tip: The monumental cedar portal on the north side is fully visible from the street, and nobody is photographing it.
🚇 Bab Rcif · 10 min walk
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Treaty of 1912Palais Mnebhi
Palais Mnebhi · Talaa Seghira
The palace where the 1912 Treaty of Fez was signed: marble courtyard, central fountain and a flawless cedar gallery.
Tip: It works as a group restaurant now: go in for mid-afternoon tea and you get the courtyard to yourself.
🚇 the Ain Azliten car park · 7 min walk
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A ruin with a soulDar Glaoui
El Glaoui Palace · Ziat
The half-ruined palace of the Pasha of Marrakech: 17 courtyards, a harem, stables and an artist family keeping it standing.
Tip: There is no set ticket: you leave a tip and a family member shows you round. Ask about the painted ceiling of the great salon.
🚇 Bab El Hadid · 7 min walk
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14th-c. caravanseraiFoundouk Chemmaine-Sbitriyine
Chemaine Funduq · Qarawiyyin
Two adjoining 14th-century caravanserais, restored: two storeys of wooden galleries around a stone courtyard.
Tip: Go in and look up from the middle of the courtyard: the cleanest funduq architecture shot you will get in Fez.
🚇 Bab Rcif · 6 min walk
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Secret balconyBelvédère de Bab Ftouh
Andalous viewpoint
A neighbourhood balcony over the Andalusian quarter: green roofs, the river and the tanneries in one frame.
Tip: It is in no guidebook: climb east from Es-Sahrij and stop where the wall opens up.
🚇 Bab Rcif · 8 min walk
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Maimonides lived hereMaison de Maïmonide
House of Maimonides · Talaa Kebira
The house where Maimonides lived in the 1160s, when Fez was the intellectual capital of the Mediterranean.
Tip: It is a discreet plaque metres from Bou Inania: you walk past it a thousand times unless you look for it.
🚇 Bab Boujloud · 3 min walk
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The real hammamHammam Mernissi
Hammam Mernissi · Boujloud
A 17th-century neighbourhood hammam metres from the Blue Gate, with separate hours for men and women.
Tip: Bring flip-flops and dry clothes. Ask for the kessa-glove scrub: that is the reason you came.
🚇 Bab Boujloud · 2 min walk
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Hammam by appointmentLes Bains de Fès
Les Bains de Fès hammam · Ziat
A hammam restored for visitors in the south medina: the same steam, black soap and kessa ritual, with towels and a booking.
Tip: Book the late-afternoon slot: stepping out into the September cool afterwards is the best feeling of the trip.
🚇 Bab Jdid · 8 min walk
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Trains nationwideGare de Fès
Fès railway station · ONCF
The Ville Nouvelle station: trains to Tangier, Rabat and Casablanca leave from here, plus the Al Boraq connection.
Tip: Book on the ONCF app and take first class: for a small difference you get a numbered seat and air con.
🚇 Fès-Ville station (ONCF) · petit taxi to the medina 15-20 min
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Art deco and palmsPlace de Florence
Place de Florence · Ville Nouvelle
The art deco heart of Protectorate-era Fez: palm trees, 1930s façades and cafés with their tables facing the street.
Tip: At seven in the evening it fills with Fassis over coffee: this is the other Fez, the one no medina photo shows.
🚇 Bd Mohammed V · bus 9 or 16 from Batha
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The sultan's olivesJardin Agdal
Agdal Garden · Fes el-Jdid
The sultan's orchard behind the Royal Palace: olives, orange trees and Marinid channels still irrigating as in 1276.
Tip: Late September it smells of green olives: the best patch of shade if you are walking up from the Mellah.
🚇 Place des Alaouites · 7 min walk
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Terraced gardensPalais Jamaï
Palais Jamaï · Bab Guissa
The vizier's 1879 palace on the north slope, with terraced Andalusian gardens above the whole medina.
Tip: Even if you are not staying, go up to the gardens at dusk: the Marinid Tombs panorama, but with shade.
🚇 Bab Guissa · 3 min walk
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The green minaretMosquée Chrabliyine
Chrabliyine Mosque · Talaa Kebira
The slipper-makers' mosque (1342): its green-and-white zellige minaret is the prettiest on Talaa Kebira.
Tip: The slipper workshops are still all around: for real leather babouches, buy here, not at the corner bazaar.
🚇 the Ain Azliten car park · 6 min walk along Talaa Kebira
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Moroccan haute cuisineNur
Nur · Zkak Rouah
Najat Kaanache's fine dining: ten courses reimagining the Middle Atlas with produce bought that morning in the medina.
Tip: Dinner only, Tuesday to Sunday, and book days ahead. The door is an unmarked slab of wood in a dead-end derb.
🚇 the Ain Azliten car park · 7 min walk
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Garden in ruinsThe Ruined Garden
The Ruined Garden · Riad Idrissy
A collapsed house turned garden restaurant: wood-oven lamb mechoui and Sephardic saffron chicken among plant-eaten walls.
Tip: The mechoui must be ordered 24 hours ahead. With the late-September cool, the garden is the best dinner spot in Fez.
🚇 Bab Rcif · 10 min walk
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The camel burgerCafé Clock
Café Clock · Derb el-Magana
Home of the camel burger, viral for twenty years now: five floors up to a terrace with minarets within arm's reach.
Tip: Beyond the camel: order Berber eggs at breakfast and sign up for the cooking class, which starts with a souk shop.
🚇 Bab Boujloud · 3 min walk along Talaa Kebira
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Franco-MoroccanDar Roumana
Dar Roumana · Zkak Roumane
Market-led Franco-Moroccan cooking in an 1880 riad: a short menu that follows the market and a terrace facing Chouara.
Tip: Book and ask for the terrace: at dusk you see the whole medina and hear the adhan from four different minarets.
🚇 the Ain Azliten car park · 6 min walk
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Guest chefLe Numéro 7
Numéro 7 · Zkak Rouah
A tiny riad with a guest chef and a menu that changes each season: the relaxed flip side of Fassi fine dining.
Tip: There are four tables: if you did not book, drop by mid-afternoon and ask for a cancellation — there usually is one.
🚇 the Ain Azliten car park · 6 min walk
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Fassi home cookingRestaurant Dar Hatim
Dar Hatim · Fandak Lihoudi
A family house where you eat what the mother cooks: chicken pastilla, lamb-and-prune tagine and homemade dessert.
Tip: Book same day and say if you are vegetarian: they cook for you, there is no menu. They will meet you at Bab Guissa.
🚇 Bab Guissa · 6 min walk
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Orange-tree courtyardPalais Amani
Eden at Palais Amani
Dinner in the orange-tree courtyard of a 1930s art deco palace, with modern takes on tagine and duck confit.
Tip: The rooftop bar is open without dining: go up at sunset, order a mint tea and watch the medina light up.
🚇 Bab Guissa · 9 min walk
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180° viewL'Amandier
L'Amandier · Palais Faraj
Palais Faraj's restaurant, hanging over the medina: the best Moroccan salads in Fez and a 180° panorama.
Tip: Ask for a table at the terrace edge and arrive before sunset: the light on the rooftops lasts twenty minutes.
🚇 Bab Jdid · 5 min walk
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Chicken pastillaDar Hammad
Dar Hammad · Talaa Seghira
A quiet terrace on Talaa Seghira with the best chicken pastilla of the upper stretch and a beef couscous that feeds two.
Tip: Couscous is only done properly on Fridays, couscous day across Morocco: book for that day.
🚇 the Ain Azliten car park · 7 min walk
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Boujloud classicChez Rachid
Chez Rachid · Bab Boujloud
One of the Boujloud row classics: clay tagines, grilled brochettes and old-school prices.
Tip: Ask the price of each dish before sitting: along the Boujloud row, menu and bill do not always agree.
🚇 Bab Boujloud · 2 min walk
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Terrace over the gateChez Thami Restaurant
Chez Thami · Bab Boujloud
The other Blue Gate classic: thick harira, kefta tagine with egg and a terrace looking straight at the gate.
Tip: Go up to the first-floor terrace: the only spot where the Blue Gate photographs whole and head-on.
🚇 Bab Boujloud · 2 min walk
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Terrace and cocktailsMezzanine
Mezzanine · Jnan Sbil
Moroccan tapas and cocktails on a terrace above Jnan Sbil gardens: where young Fez gathers in the evening.
Tip: One of the few medina spots with alcohol and music. The upper terrace fills at 7pm — go up before.
🚇 Bab Dekkakin · 6 min walk
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Dinner with live oudLa Maison Bleue
La Maison Bleue · Place de l'Istiqlal
Fassi gala dinner in a 1915 palace with live oud: a set menu of pastilla, tagine and almond pastries.
Tip: Set menu and pricey for Fez, but the music is included: if you do one gala night on the trip, make it this one.
🚇 Bab Boujloud · 5 min walk
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Diffa without the billDarori Resto
Darori · Place R'cif
A full diffa at neighbourhood prices: pigeon pastilla, beef-and-prune tagine and dessert, in a zellige room.
Tip: Pigeon pastilla is the real Fassi one and must be ordered at midday for dinner: say so when you book.
🚇 Bab Rcif · 2 min walk
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Fusion in a funduqFondouk Bazaar
Fondouk Bazaar · Talaa Kebira
Mediterranean-Moroccan fusion inside a restored funduq, with genuine vegetarian options — rare in Fez.
Tip: One of the few medina places where a vegetarian eats properly: order the smoked aubergine mezze and zaalouk.
🚇 the Ain Azliten car park · 4 min walk along Talaa Kebira
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Cheap rooftopMom's Touch
Mom's Touch · Talaa Kebira
A casual terrace over Talaa Kebira with Moroccan and Middle Eastern food: hummus, tagine and good coffee for little.
Tip: A good midday stop coming down from Boujloud: you eat on the roof with the souk noise below.
🚇 Bab Boujloud · 4 min walk along Talaa Kebira
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Cheap and street-levelLe tarbouche
Le Tarbouche · Talaa Kebira
A backpacker stop right on Talaa Kebira: pastilla, Moroccan salads and tagines at student prices.
Tip: The seven Moroccan salads to start are worth the whole meal: order them, add bread, done.
🚇 the Ain Azliten car park · 4 min walk along Talaa Kebira
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Pastilla and lambAl Oud
Café Restaurant Al Oud · Talaa Kebira
A small, colourful room right on the artery, known for its pastilla and a lamb tagine that falls apart.
Tip: Five tables and no bookings: if it is full, leave your name and take a twenty-minute turn around the souk.
🚇 the Ain Azliten car park · 6 min walk along Talaa Kebira
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A break from tagineLa Cave
La Cave · Zqaq Lma
Moroccan and international cooking in a Zqaq Lma house, with pasta and Asian dishes for when you cannot face another tagine.
Tip: It is on an unsigned side lane off Zqaq Lma: coming from Talaa Kebira, take the hammam alley down.
🚇 the Ain Azliten car park · 5 min walk
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Tombs viewLe Peroke Cafe Restaurant
Le Peroke · Talaa Seghira
Straight-up Moroccan on Talaa Seghira, with a terrace looking right at the Marinid Tombs.
Tip: Go up for tea around 5:30pm: the Tombs hill turns gold before the medina does.
🚇 Bab Boujloud · 6 min walk
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Above the fountainRestaurant Nejjarine
Restaurant Nejjarine · Place Nejjarine
A Moroccan dining room above the mosaic-fountain square: clay tagines and a small terrace right over the funduq.
Tip: Eat upstairs: from the terrace you get the Nejjarine fountain and the green roofs in the same frame.
🚇 the Ain Azliten car park · 9 min walk
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Prettiest on the TalaaMade in M
Made in M · Talaa Kebira
A tea house and local kitchen in an old house decorated like a museum: one of the prettiest on Talaa Kebira.
Tip: Ask for mint tea 'without sugar' if you do not want the traditional syrup: here it is just as good.
🚇 Bab Boujloud · 6 min walk along Talaa Kebira
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Al-Qarawiyyin viewPalais de Fès Dar Tazi
Palais de Fès · Bab Rcif
A rooftop restaurant above a carpet bazaar with the head-on view of Al-Qarawiyyin: the classic panoramic lunch.
Tip: The food is fine, but you come for the view: nowhere else gets you this close to the green roof.
🚇 Bab Rcif · 2 min walk
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Terraces over the gateKasbah de Fes
Kasbah de Fes · Bab Boujloud
Four floors of terraces above the Blue Gate: the best perch to watch the whole medina come and go while you eat.
Tip: Order just tea or a harira and go to the top floor: the food is fine, the view is the product.
🚇 Bab Boujloud · 2 min walk
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Blue Gate cornerRestaurant Bouanania
Restaurant Bouanania · Bab Boujloud
Right on the Blue Gate corner: standard tagines, harira at any hour and tables on the pavement.
Tip: Harira here costs what a coffee does: it is the real Moroccan breakfast, with dates and chebakia alongside.
🚇 Bab Boujloud · 2 min walk
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Kefta tagineThami's restaurant
Thami's · Bab Boujloud
The Thami's everyone knows: kefta tagine with egg, brochettes and a bill that fits in your pocket.
Tip: It is the first-meal-in-Fez place: you arrive, eat well and cheap, and you are already inside the medina.
🚇 Bab Boujloud · 2 min walk
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Homemade rfissaKan Zamane
Kan Zamane · Bab Boujloud
A quiet terrace a step from the gate, with rfissa and preserved-lemon chicken tagine done the home way.
Tip: Rfissa — chicken and lentils over torn msemen — is what families cook when a baby is born. Order it.
🚇 Bab Boujloud · 2 min walk
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Khlii with eggBen Lemlih
Ben Lemlih · Talaa Kebira
A Moroccan sandwich counter round the corner from Bou Inania: khlii with egg, kefta and merguez in bread.
Tip: Ask for the khlii one: meat cured in its own fat, the Fassi preserve par excellence, eaten at breakfast.
🚇 Bab Boujloud · 4 min walk along Talaa Kebira
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Camel burgerCamel Burger
Camel Burger · Talaa Seghira
The stall that turned the camel burger into a Fez meme: house bread, dromedary meat and harissa sauce.
Tip: It is leaner and sweeter than beef. If you try it once in your life, make it here and not in a hotel.
🚇 the Ain Azliten car park · 8 min walk
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The family tableBerrada Family Restaurant
Berrada Family Restaurant · Sagha
A family house near Souk Sagha: one set menu, everyday Fassi cooking and tea afterwards.
Tip: Book in the morning and say what time: they cook for whoever called, no menu and no leftovers.
🚇 Bab Guissa · 7 min walk
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Twelve taginesDar Tajine
Dar Tajine · Nejjarine
The name says it: clay tagines, twelve of them, in a small house metres from the Nejjarine fountain.
Tip: Order the lamb with prunes and almonds: the Fassi celebration dish, cooked here every day.
🚇 Bab Rcif · 8 min walk
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Fountain courtyardRestaurant Sekaya
Sekaya · Nejjarine
A zellige room in a Nejjarine derb with classic Fassi cooking and a fountain courtyard you appreciate at midday.
Tip: The courtyard is cooler than any terrace at noon: save the roof for dinner and eat downstairs.
🚇 the Ain Azliten car park · 8 min walk
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Hidden with a roofDar Sidi Idir
Dar Sidi Idir · Nejjarine
A riad restaurant hidden one derb from the Nejjarine fountain, with Fassi set menus and a rooftop.
Tip: The door is in a dead-end alley: if GPS spins, ask for 'Sidi Idir' at the corner funduq.
🚇 the Ain Azliten car park · 8 min walk
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On the rampartsLes Remparts De Fès
Les Remparts · Bab Guissa
A terrace on the north wall, the whole medina below and the Bab Guissa cemetery climbing alongside.
Tip: It sits between the Marinid Tombs and the medina: the natural dinner stop after sunset.
🚇 Bab Guissa · 4 min walk
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Andalusian musicRestaurant Palais Al firdaous
Palais Al Firdaous · Bab Guissa
A banquet palace on the north slope: Fassi dinner with live Andalusian music and a columned courtyard.
Tip: Groups come here: ask if there is an orchestra that night and, if so, book late for the second set.
🚇 Bab Guissa · 3 min walk
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Whatever is in todayThe Corner Kitchen
The Corner Kitchen · Douh
Market cooking in the Douh quarter with no fixed menu: whatever was bought that morning, cooked in front of you.
Tip: One of the few open kitchens in Fez: if you care how a tagine is built, ask to sit near the stove.
🚇 Bab El Hadid · 4 min walk
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Borj Sud viewAl Mandar
Al Mandar · Bab Jdid
A terrace on the quiet south side of the medina: standard Moroccan cooking and a clean view towards Borj Sud.
Tip: There are almost no terrace restaurants on the south side: this one saves dinner if you stay in Ziat or Bensouda.
🚇 Bab Rcif · 6 min walk
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R'cif street foodSnack Flamingo
Snack Flamingo · Place R'cif
A street counter on R'cif: kefta sandwiches, plates of chips and juices, open late.
Tip: Place R'cif at night is where the medina eats: snails, sfenj and juices, all for small change.
🚇 Bab Rcif · 2 min walk
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Something for everyoneCinema cafe
Cinéma Café · Batha
A vast menu and long hours next to Batha: pizza, seafood, breakfasts and tagine — for when the group cannot agree.
Tip: Opens early: one of the few medina places for a proper breakfast before 8am if you have a train.
🚇 Bab Boujloud · 7 min walk
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Design rooftopSky Bar
Sky Bar · Hôtel Sahrai
A design rooftop on the Ville Nouvelle hill: cocktails, small plates and the whole medina lit up in the distance.
Tip: The best night terrace in Fez and it is not in the medina: ideal for the last night, with a petit taxi back.
🚇 Dhar El Mehraz hill · red petit taxi 10 min from Batha
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Ville Nouvelle classicCafé restaurant Florence
Restaurant Florence · Place de Florence
A Ville Nouvelle institution on the art deco square: Moroccan and French cooking with pavement tables.
Tip: Here you eat the way Fez eats outside the medina: set lunch, real dirham prices and no guide at the door.
🚇 Place de Florence · bus 9 or 16 along Bd Mohammed V
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1930s brasserieLe roi de la Bière
Le Roi de la Bière · Bd Mohammed V
A Protectorate-era brasserie that has not changed: beer hall and dining room with a Franco-Moroccan menu on Bd Mohammed V.
Tip: There is almost no alcohol in the medina: for a cold beer with dinner, the Ville Nouvelle is the place.
🚇 Bd Mohammed V · bus 9 from Batha
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Tea on the TalaaCafé Talaa
Café Talaa · Talaa Kebira
A tea house at the exact midpoint of Talaa Kebira: mint tea in a glass, a wooden bench and the souk flowing past.
Tip: This is where the Talaa stops being touristy and turns residential: sit half an hour and watch who goes by.
🚇 the Ain Azliten car park · 8 min walk along Talaa Kebira
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Tea facing the gateNagham cafe
Nagham Café · Bab Boujloud
The Blue Gate tea house: mint tea in a glass, Fassi pastries and the best seat to watch the medina go by.
Tip: Ask for tea 'b'la sukkar' (no sugar) if you do not want syrup: it comes just as strong and with more mint.
🚇 Bab Boujloud · 2 min walk
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Fassi pastriesCafé Maamoura Salon de té
Maamoura tea room · Batha
A neighbourhood tea room in Batha, between the museum and the Blue Gate: almond pastries, msemen and tea at Fassi hours.
Tip: Ask for sellou (also called sfouf): toasted flour, almond and honey — the Ramadan energy food, eaten all year.
🚇 Bab Boujloud · 6 min walk
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Chouara with a seatCafé Terrasse Panoramique
Terrasse Panoramique · Chouara
A tea terrace above the tanneries: the same Chouara vat panorama, but with a chair, shade and no salesmen.
Tip: You pay for a tea and stay as long as you like: cheaper and calmer than entering through a leather bazaar.
🚇 Bab Rcif · 10 min walk
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North viewCafé Terrasse Panoramique Guissa
Bab Guissa terrace
A high terrace by Bab Guissa, looking over the north medina and the white cemetery climbing the slope.
Tip: The natural stop coming down from the Marinid Tombs: a tea here and you are ready for the labyrinth.
🚇 Bab Guissa · 7 min walk
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Riad rooftopcafé Terrasse Riad Kettani
Riad Kettani terrace · Chouara
A riad terrace open to the public one derb from the tanneries: coffee, tea and a clean view towards Al-Qarawiyyin.
Tip: No need to be a guest: go in, order at reception and they take you up. Perfect in the late-September cool.
🚇 Bab Rcif · 9 min walk
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Espresso in the medinaMédina Coffee Mug
Medina Coffee Mug · Sagha
New wave inside the medina: espresso from a real machine, flat whites and roasted Moroccan beans.
Tip: One of the few places in Fes el-Bali where coffee is not instant: if you need serious caffeine, this is it.
🚇 Bab Guissa · 7 min walk
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Under the olive treeAbdullah Thé & Café
Abdullah · Place Seffarine
The coppersmiths' square café: three tables under the olive tree and hammered copper as the soundtrack.
Tip: Sit with your back to the library, facing the workshops: the best fixed shot of living craft in Fez.
🚇 Bab Rcif · 5 min walk
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Juice and shadeClassico
Classico · Nejjarine
A small café between Nejjarine and Chouara: fresh juices, coffee and a street bench to watch the donkeys pass.
Tip: Order the orange juice with a little orange-blossom water: that is the Fez way, not the rest of Morocco's.
🚇 the Ain Azliten car park · 6 min walk
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A stop on the TalaaSqalli
Sqalli · Talaa Kebira
A tea house halfway down Talaa Kebira, right where the souk thickens: shade, a bench and strong tea.
Tip: It is exactly where to stop if you are walking the whole Talaa: halfway down and guaranteed shade.
🚇 the Ain Azliten car park · 4 min walk along Talaa Kebira
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Wifi and teaBlue Gate
Blue Gate Café · Talaa Kebira
A drop-in café half a block from Bou Inania: street tables, tea, coffee and wifi that usually works.
Tip: With an eSIM you do not depend on anyone's wifi: still a good place to stop, sit and re-plan your map.
🚇 Bab Boujloud · 5 min walk along Talaa Kebira
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An empty terraceScorpion du desert
Scorpion du Désert · Talaa Kebira
A long-standing café-bazaar across from Bou Inania: tea, coffee and stairs to a terrace nobody uses.
Tip: Ask about the terrace: from up there the Bou Inania minaret is at eye level.
🚇 Bab Boujloud · 4 min walk along Talaa Kebira
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Coffee and cakeEncanto
Encanto · Batha
A modern café in Batha by the museum exit: proper machine coffee, cakes and a neighbourhood feel instead of bazaar.
Tip: Batha is the hinge between medina and Ville Nouvelle: a good meeting point if the group split up in the souk.
🚇 Bab Boujloud · 5 min walk
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Plant-filled courtyardGarden Coffee
Garden Coffee · Douh
A plant-filled courtyard in the Douh quarter: coffee, juices and breakfast away from the Talaa noise.
Tip: A good breakfast before the day starts: msemen, eggs and new olive oil, which is already around in September.
🚇 Bab Rcif · 10 min walk
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Verbena teaDar Le 44
Dar Le 44 · Talaa Kebira
A tea house in a small Talaa Kebira riad: cool courtyard, verbena tea and homemade pastries.
Tip: Ask for louiza (lemon verbena) tea instead of mint: it is the afternoon infusion in Fassi homes.
🚇 Bab Boujloud · 5 min walk along Talaa Kebira
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Neighbourhood caféCafé fassi
Café Fassi · Bab Boujloud
A classic men's café beside the Blue Gate: instant coffee, tea and football at full volume.
Tip: This is the Fez that does not make the photos: order a nous-nous (half coffee, half milk) and linger.
🚇 Bab Boujloud · 2 min walk
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Meeting pointJawharaz Bab Boujloud
Jawharaz · Bab Boujloud
A café against the Blue Gate arch: where everyone waits for someone and every walk begins.
Tip: The best meeting point in the medina: 'see you at the Blue Gate café' is understood by everyone.
🚇 Bab Boujloud · 2 min walk
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Fassi sweets by weightLe Palais des Goûts Fassie
Palais des Goûts · Bab Boujloud
A Fassi pastry shop metres from the gate: kaab el ghazal, chebakia, almond briouat and sellou by weight.
Tip: Buy 200g mixed and try kaab el ghazal — 'gazelle horn' — with afternoon tea.
🚇 Bab Boujloud · 2 min walk
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Avenue terraceCafe les Ambassadeurs
Les Ambassadeurs · Ville Nouvelle
A classic Ville Nouvelle terrace café on the avenue: where Fez sits and watches the afternoon go by.
Tip: At six in the evening it fills with students and office workers: the other Fez, the everyday one.
🚇 Av. Hassan II · bus 9 or 16 from Batha
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A café to stay inBleu Babel
Bleu Babel · Ville Nouvelle
A modern café-bookshop in the Ville Nouvelle: machine coffee, homemade cakes and tables where nobody rushes you.
Tip: One of the few Fez spots built for sitting with a laptop: sockets, air con and coffee that is not instant.
🚇 Av. Allal Ben Abdellah · bus 16 across the Ville Nouvelle
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Franco-Moroccan windowCafe Victorine
Victorine · Bd Mohammed V
A pastry shop and café on the art deco boulevard: croissants, mille-feuille and Moroccan sweets in one window.
Tip: Breakfast here is the Protectorate one: café au lait, croissant and juice, at a third of medina prices.
🚇 Bd Mohammed V · bus 9 from Batha
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Breakfast under the treesCafé Central Parc
Central Parc · Ville Nouvelle
A park café in the Ville Nouvelle next to the Central Market: tables under the trees and a full Moroccan breakfast.
Tip: Pair it with the Central Market next door: September brings the season's first new olives.
🚇 Av. Abdallah Chefchaouni · bus 9 or 16
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Spices and olivesSouk el-Attarine
Souk el-Attarine · Qarawiyyin
The perfumers' and spice souk: cinnamon, saffron, ras el hanout, orange-blossom water and mountains of new olives.
Tip: Late September brings the new harvest olives: ask for 'zitoun beldi' and taste first — they always let you.
🚇 Bab Rcif · 8 min walk along Talaa Kebira
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Henna and potterySouk el Henna
Souk el-Henna · Nejjarine
A tiny square under huge plane trees, given over to henna, kohl, rose water and Fez pottery.
Tip: Good henna is green and smells of hay; black henna contains PPD and can burn your skin. Do not buy it.
🚇 Bab Guissa · 9 min walk
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Smen and new oilQaat Smen
Qaat Smen · Talaa Kebira
The market of aged butter and oil: jars of smen cured for years, new olive oil and mountain honey.
Tip: It is new-oil season: ask to taste it with bread and take the intense green one, not the golden.
🚇 the Ain Azliten car park · 2 min walk along Talaa Kebira
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A working funduqFondouk Tazi
Fondouk Tazi · Talaa Kebira
A caravanserai still working as warehouse and workshop: step in and see how Fez traded 600 years ago.
Tip: Ask before going in and before photographing: it is a workplace, not a museum, and that is exactly the point.
🚇 the Ain Azliten car park · 4 min walk along Talaa Kebira
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Fresh-stitched babouchesSouk Laghzai
Souk Laghzai · Sagha
A souk lane on the way to Chouara, between raw-leather workshops and stalls of freshly stitched babouches.
Tip: Real leather babouches bend without cracking and smell strong: no smell means synthetic.
🚇 Bab Guissa · 7 min walk
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Saddler's leatherKessaria Sarrajine
Kessaria Sarrajine · Bab Boujloud
The saddlers' kissaria by the Blue Gate: leather, saddles, belts and hand-made bags.
Tip: Prices here are half what the Talaa bazaars ask: this is where the Fassi themselves buy.
🚇 Bab Boujloud · 2 min walk
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Zellige and Fez blueArt Naji
Art Naji · Ain Nokbi
The big Ain Nokbi workshop: you see the wheel, the olive-stone kiln and the maalems chipping zellige by hammer.
Tip: The workshop tour is free with no obligation to buy. Real Fez blue is cobalt under the glaze, not painted on top.
🚇 Ain Nokbi · red petit taxi 10 min from Bab Ftouh
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Hammer-cut zelligeMosaïque et Poterie de Fes
Mosaïque et Poterie · Ain Nokbi
A zellige cooperative in the potters' quarter: tables, fountains and panels cut piece by piece by hand.
Tip: Ask to watch the zellige cutting: the maalem chips each piece from a tile by hammer, with no template.
🚇 Ain Nokbi · red petit taxi 12 min from Bab Ftouh
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A real clay tagineSerghini Pottery Workshop
Serghini Pottery · Ain Nokbi
A family workshop in Ain Nokbi: fired clay tagines, bowls and hand-painted plates at potter's prices.
Tip: If you want a tagine to cook in, not to display, it must be unglazed clay inside: ask for that.
🚇 Ain Nokbi · red petit taxi 10 min from Bab Ftouh
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Agave silkTissage et Caftan Al Quaraouiyine
Al Quaraouiyine Weaving · Seffarine
A pedal-loom workshop next to Al-Qarawiyyin: agave silk (sabra), cotton and wool hand-woven in front of you.
Tip: 'Fez silk' is not silk: it is agave fibre, shiny but it creases differently. Ask them to burn a thread to prove it.
🚇 Bab Rcif · 7 min walk
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Chased coppercuivre
Copper workshops · Place Seffarine
The Seffarine coppersmiths: trays, teapots and cauldrons hand-chased and hammered on the square itself.
Tip: Copper tinned on the inside is the kind you can eat from: if it is yellow inside, it is decorative only.
🚇 Bab Rcif · 4 min walk
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Atlas rugsKoko spécialiste berbère
Koko · Nejjarine
Middle Atlas Berber rugs in a Nejjarine funduq: beni ourain, boucherouite and kilims from Azrou.
Tip: Check the back: on a hand-knotted rug the knots are irregular and the pattern shows through; on a machine one it does not.
🚇 the Ain Azliten car park · 7 min walk
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Rugs with a rooftopBerber shops
Berber bazaar · Talaa Kebira
A rug and blanket bazaar right on Talaa Kebira, with a terrace upstairs overlooking the medina roofs.
Tip: You can go up to the terrace without buying: say so upfront with a smile and they almost always agree.
🚇 the Ain Azliten car park · 4 min walk along Talaa Kebira
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Chouara leatheraaa leather goods
Talaa Seghira leather
Leather goods on Talaa Seghira: bags, wallets and poufs from Chouara-tanned hide, stitched on site.
Tip: Poufs are sold unstuffed and travel folded in your case: ask for goat leather, the toughest.
🚇 the Ain Azliten car park · 7 min walk
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Leather with a viewTannery Terrasse shop
Chouara terrace shop
One of the shop-balconies ringing the Chouara vats: first-hand leather and the view from the terrace.
Tip: Going up is free. If you buy, start at a third of the first price and be ready to walk: it always works.
🚇 Bab Sidi Boujida · 10 min walk
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Vegetable tannedSacs de cuir naturel
Natural leather bags · Chouara
A bag workshop next to the tanneries: mimosa-bark tanned leather, chrome-free, hand-stitched.
Tip: Vegetable tanning smells of wood and darkens with age; chrome smells chemical and never changes. Smell it.
🚇 Bab Rcif · 11 min walk
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Ras el hanout to orderHerboriste Nomade
Nomade Herbalist · Talaa Kebira
A Talaa Kebira herbalist: ras el hanout ground to order, Taliouine saffron, cumin and orange-blossom water.
Tip: Ask them to grind it in front of you: real ras el hanout has over twenty spices and is ground fresh.
🚇 the Ain Azliten car park · 3 min walk along Talaa Kebira
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Argan and amlouMarrocan oil argan bio
Organic argan · Talaa Kebira
An argan and olive oil stall on Talaa Kebira, with amlou (almond and argan spread) made at the counter.
Tip: Cosmetic argan is pale and nearly odourless; culinary argan is roasted and smells of nuts. They are not interchangeable.
🚇 the Ain Azliten car park · 4 min walk along Talaa Kebira
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Tuareg silverLes merveilles de l'art africain
Merveilles de l'Art · Talaa Kebira
Saharan and Atlas craft on Talaa Kebira: Tuareg silver, old doors, chests and Berber jewellery.
Tip: Berber silver is hallmarked and cold to the touch: if the seller will not show you the mark, it is not silver.
🚇 the Ain Azliten car park · 5 min walk along Talaa Kebira
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Fair price, no hagglingThe Anou Cooperative
The Anou Cooperative · Bab Boujloud
An artisan-run cooperative selling with no middlemen: rugs, embroidery and basketry labelled with the maker's name.
Tip: No haggling here, and rightly so: almost the whole price goes to the maker, which never happens in the bazaar.
🚇 Bab Boujloud · 3 min walk
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Fixed pricesCoopérative Artisanale de Fès
Fès Artisan Cooperative · Bab Jdid
A cooperative beside Jnan Sbil, fixed prices and every Fez craft on show under one roof.
Tip: Come here first even if you buy nothing: you see the real prices and then know how far to haggle in the souk.
🚇 Bab Dekkakin · 4 min walk
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Everything in one placeCentre Artisanal
Complexe Artisanal · Ville Nouvelle
The big artisan complex in the Ville Nouvelle: zellige, leather, copper, rugs and textiles, all labelled and priced.
Tip: They ship internationally, which is exactly why you buy the heavy and fragile things here.
🚇 Av. Allal Ben Abdellah · bus 16 across the Ville Nouvelle
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Olives and datesMarché Central
Central Market · Bd Mohammed V
The Protectorate covered market on Bd Mohammed V: fish, olives, cheese, flowers and dried fruit.
Tip: In September the olive stalls fill with the new harvest: ask for beldi olives with preserved lemon and cumin.
🚇 Bd Mohammed V · bus 9 or 16 from Batha
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Brands and air conBorj Fez
Borj Fez · Ville Nouvelle
Fez's shopping mall: international brands, a cinema, food court and air conditioning when the medina wears you out.
Tip: The fallback if it rains or you travel with kids: a play area and clean toilets, rare in the medina.
🚇 Bd Allal El Fassi · bus 16 across the Ville Nouvelle
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Atlas loomArtizan textiles
Artizan Textiles · Talaa Kebira
Craft textiles beside Bou Inania: tablecloths, djellabas and cotton foutas loom-woven in the Middle Atlas.
Tip: A cotton fouta works as a hammam towel, a sarong and a plane blanket: the most useful souvenir in Morocco.
🚇 Bab Boujloud · 4 min walk along Talaa Kebira
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Hassle-free entranceShop No #10
Shop 10 · Chouara
Entrance number 10 to the Chouara terraces: one of the two doors guidebooks recommend for a hassle-free climb.
Tip: Use door 10 or 64 and say from the street that you are only looking: the leather price then starts where it should.
🚇 Bab Rcif · 10 min walk
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A real market, not a tourist oneGrande Rue de Fès el-Jdid
Fes el-Jdid market street
Fes el-Jdid's market street between Bab Semmarine and the Mellah: food, clothes, dates and zero souvenirs.
Tip: Prices are written up and there is no haggling: this is where the people of Fez actually shop.
🚇 Bab Semmarine · 3 min walk
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