📍 Luxor tourist map

140 places · Curated with UNESCO, Lonely Planet, Time Out, Atlas Obscura and TasteAtlas · no Eater coverage · 5 routes

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Things to do in Luxor: the full list behind the map

This interactive map of Luxor (Egypt) brings together 140 hand-picked places: 50 attractions, 45 restaurants, 21 cafés and 24 shops. It also includes 5 walking routes with their stops in order. For every place you get what it is, a practical tip and how to get there by public transport. It is free, works on your phone and needs no sign-up.

· Curated by the HOLASIM team · How we make the maps

Walking routes in Luxor

Tap a route to see it drawn on the map, stop by stop.

East Bank on foot: temple to Karnak

3 h · 7 stops · on foot · 7 stops

  1. Luxor Temple
  2. Abu el-Haggag Mosque
  3. Luxor Souk
  4. Avenue of Sphinxes
  5. Luxor Museum
  6. Karnak Complex
  7. Great Hypostyle Hall
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Valley of the Kings and Deir el-Bahari

5 h · 6 stops · ferry and taxi · 6 stops

  1. Ferry to the West Bank
  2. Valley of the Kings
  3. KV17 · Seti I
  4. KV62 · Tutankhamun
  5. Temple of Hatshepsut
  6. Lunch at the Marsam
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The artisans' necropolis

4 h · 6 stops · by taxi · 6 stops

  1. Deir el-Medina
  2. TT1 · Sennedjem
  3. Temple of Hathor
  4. Valley of the Queens
  5. QV66 · Nefertari
  6. Medinet Habu
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Gurna: balloons, colossi and archaeologists

6 h · 7 stops · from 5 am · 7 stops

  1. Balloon launch field
  2. Breakfast at Panorama
  3. Colossi of Memnon
  4. Temple of Amenhotep III
  5. The Ramesseum
  6. Tombs of the Nobles
  7. Alabaster workshops
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Nile sunset and Luxor by night

4 h · 6 stops · felucca and foot · 6 stops

  1. Winter Palace Nile Terrace
  2. Banana Island
  3. Tea under the banana trees
  4. Dinner at Al-Sahaby Lane
  5. Luxor Temple floodlit
  6. Shisha at Ali Baba Cafe
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Things to do in Luxor: top attractions

Lit up at night

Templo de Luxor

معبد الأقصر · Corniche

Amenhotep III and Ramses II right on the Corniche: colonnades, colossi and a living mosque perched over the court.

Tip: Come back after 7pm: floodlit, cool and half-empty, it is a completely different temple.

🚇 The ferry dock · 4 min walk

Featured in: UNESCO · Lonely Planet · National Geographic

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2,000 years of building

Complejo de Karnak

معبد الكرنك · Karnak

The largest religious complex ever built: thirty pharaohs kept adding courts, pylons and obelisks for two millennia.

Tip: Get in at 6am on opening: the Hypostyle Hall is nearly empty and the low dawn light is unbeatable.

🚇 Karnak · 13 min walk

Featured in: UNESCO · Lonely Planet · Rough Guides

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134 columns

Gran Sala Hipóstila

صالة الأعمدة الكبرى · Karnak

A forest of 134 columns up to 23 m tall, hieroglyphs still painted near the top. The best shade in Karnak.

Tip: Look up on the north side: that is where the original paint survived out of the sun's reach.

🚇 Karnak · 10 min walk

Featured in: UNESCO · National Geographic

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The giant scarab

Lago Sagrado de Karnak

الجعران · Karnak

Beside the lake where priests purified themselves sits Amenhotep III's granite scarab, magnet for tourist rituals.

Tip: Legend says you must circle the scarab seven times. Nobody does it with a straight face: do it anyway.

🚇 Karnak · 12 min walk

Featured in: UNESCO · Lonely Planet

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30 m of pink granite

Obeliscos de Hatshepsut

مسلة الملكة حتشبسوت · Karnak

The woman pharaoh raised Egypt's tallest standing obelisk: 30 m in one piece, floated down the Nile from Aswan.

Tip: Her second obelisk lies broken by the Sacred Lake: the tip's finish is visible there as it never is from below.

🚇 Karnak · 12 min walk

Featured in: UNESCO · Rough Guides

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Rebuilt block by block

Capilla Blanca de Sesostris I

المقصورة البيضاء · Open-Air Museum

A Middle Kingdom alabaster chapel found dismantled inside a pylon and rebuilt block by block by archaeologists.

Tip: The reliefs are among Egypt's finest: look from the side so raking light lifts the carving out.

🚇 Karnak · 9 min walk

Featured in: UNESCO · Rough Guides

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Separate ticket

Museo al Aire Libre de Karnak

المتحف المفتوح · Karnak

A yard of chapels taken apart and reassembled: Hatshepsut's Red Chapel, the White Chapel, Amenhotep I's alabaster shrine.

Tip: It needs its own ticket, sold at the Karnak gate: ask for it on the way in or you will walk back.

🚇 Karnak · 9 min walk

Featured in: UNESCO · Lonely Planet

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Nearly always empty

Templo de Khonsu

معبد خونسو · Karnak

A complete temple to the moon god, son of Amun and Mut, in the southwest corner of Karnak almost nobody walks to.

Tip: Head up to the roof if the guard opens the stair: the whole Karnak precinct opens up from there.

🚇 Karnak · 9 min walk

Featured in: UNESCO · Atlas Obscura

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Hundreds of Sekhmets

Templo de Mut

معبد موت · South Karnak

The mother goddess's precinct, a crescent-shaped lake and hundreds of lion-headed Sekhmet statues lined up.

Tip: It is an active dig from October to March: if a mission is working, ask — they usually share what turned up.

🚇 Avenue of Sphinxes · 17 min walk

Featured in: UNESCO · Atlas Obscura

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Reopened in 2021

Avenida de las Esfinges

طريق الكباش · Luxor–Karnak

2.7 km of sphinxes and rams linking Luxor Temple to Karnak, excavated and reopened with huge ceremony in 2021.

Tip: Walk it from Luxor to Karnak at dusk: 40 minutes, little shade but golden light and lit sphinxes at the end.

🚇 Luxor Museum · 5 min walk

Featured in: UNESCO · CNN Travel · National Geographic

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Egypt's best-curated

Museo de Luxor

متحف الأقصر · Corniche

Small and perfect: the mummy of Ahmose I, the Luxor statue cachette and Akhenaten's reconstructed talatat wall.

Tip: It reopens at night and it is air-conditioned: the best plan for the hours when outside is unbearable.

🚇 Avenue of Sphinxes · 5 min walk

Featured in: Lonely Planet · National Geographic · Rough Guides

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The original toolkit

Museo de la Momificación

متحف التحنيط · Corniche

Under the Corniche, the only museum devoted to embalming: hooks, canopic jars and a fully mummified crocodile.

Tip: It is small and cool: half an hour does it, and it slots perfectly between Luxor Temple and the ferry.

🚇 The ferry dock · 3 min walk

Featured in: Lonely Planet · Atlas Obscura

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A mosque on the temple

Mezquita de Abu el-Haggag

مسجد أبو الحجاج · Luxor Temple

A 13th-century mosque built on top of Luxor Temple while sand still buried it: its door hangs 8 m above the ground.

Tip: Look at that door floating in mid-air from the temple court: it is visual proof of how deep the sand ran.

🚇 The ferry dock · 4 min walk

Featured in: Atlas Obscura · Lonely Planet

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Its twin is in Paris

Obelisco de Ramsés II

مسلة رمسيس الثاني · Luxor Temple

One of the two facade obelisks still stands. The other was shipped off in 1833 and now anchors Place de la Concorde.

Tip: You can see it whole for free from the Corniche pavement: shoot it lit at night without buying a ticket.

🚇 Luxor Temple · 2 min walk

Featured in: Lonely Planet · National Geographic

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Sleeper trains

Estación de tren de Luxor

محطة قطار الأقصر · Sharia al-Mahatta

A neo-pharaonic facade sending trains to Cairo and Aswan, ringed by the Luxor that is not there for tourists.

Tip: Sharia al-Mahatta, the street running down from the station, has the best sugarcane juice in town.

🚇 Luxor Souk · 10 min walk

Featured in: Lonely Planet · Rough Guides

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Coptic Luxor

Iglesia del Arcángel Miguel

كنيسة الملاك ميخائيل · East Luxor

A Coptic Orthodox church deep in a residential quarter: gilt iconostasis, incense and Luxor's other half-story.

Tip: Go on a Sunday morning to hear the liturgy in Coptic, the language descended from ancient Egyptian.

🚇 Railway Station · 7 min walk

Featured in: Rough Guides · Atlas Obscura

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Leaves when it fills

Ferry público del Nilo

المعدية · Corniche

The locals' barge crosses to the West Bank for 1 EGP. No timetable: it leaves when full, and takes eight minutes.

Tip: Take the upper deck and sit on the west side: you cross facing the Colossi and the Theban mountain.

🚇 Luxor Temple · 4 min walk

Featured in: Lonely Planet · Rough Guides · TikTok viral

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Sunset felucca run

Isla del Banana

جزيرة الموز · Southern Nile

A banana-plantation islet south of Luxor and the classic sunset felucca run: you sail out and drift back.

Tip: Fix the felucca price BEFORE boarding and say return trip: rowing back against the current takes forever.

🚇 Public ferry 1 EGP + 8 min taxi

Featured in: Lonely Planet · TikTok viral

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63 tombs, 3 per ticket

Valle de los Reyes

وادي الملوك · West Bank

A desert wadi holding 63 rock-cut royal tombs beneath the natural pyramid of el-Qurn. The base ticket covers three.

Tip: Pick tombs from different dynasties, not three in a row: Ramses IX, Merenptah and Thutmose III span 400 years.

🚇 Public ferry 1 EGP + 15 min taxi

Featured in: UNESCO · National Geographic · Lonely Planet

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The mummy is still in it

KV62 · Tumba de Tutankamón

مقبرة توت عنخ آمون · KV62

Tiny for its fame: four chambers, one painted wall, and Tutankhamun's own mummy still lying in its case.

Tip: It needs its own ticket and disappoints if you expect the treasure: that is in Cairo. Come for the mummy.

🚇 Public ferry 1 EGP + 15 min taxi

Featured in: UNESCO · National Geographic

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The finest of them all

KV17 · Tumba de Seti I

مقبرة سيتي الأول · KV17

137 m of painted relief with not one blank wall: the astronomical ceiling and Book of Gates almost intact.

Tip: It is the priciest ticket in the valley and worth every pound: if you splurge once in Luxor, splurge here.

🚇 Public ferry 1 EGP + 14 min taxi

Featured in: UNESCO · National Geographic · Rough Guides

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Nut's ceiling

KV9 · Ramsés V y Ramsés VI

رمسيس الخامس والسادس · KV9

A very long corridor roofed by the star-covered body of Nut, swallowing and giving birth to the sun each day.

Tip: The rubble dug out of this tomb buried Tutankhamun's, which is why robbers never found it.

🚇 Public ferry 1 EGP + 15 min taxi

Featured in: UNESCO · Lonely Planet

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Scenes of daily life

KV11 · Tumba de Ramsés III

مقبرة رمسيس الثالث · KV11

The harper's tomb: besides the underworld, side panels of bakers, boats and musicians from everyday Egypt.

Tip: Find the two blind harpists in a side niche: the most human scene in the whole Valley of the Kings.

🚇 Public ferry 1 EGP + 14 min taxi

Featured in: UNESCO · Rough Guides

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Nested sarcophagi

KV8 · Tumba de Merenptah

مقبرة مرنبتاح · KV8

A long wide descent to the chamber of Ramses II's son, the pink granite outer sarcophagus lid lying on the floor.

Tip: It is usually empty despite being top-tier: pick it when the valley's star tombs have a queue at the door.

🚇 Public ferry 1 EGP + 15 min taxi

Featured in: UNESCO · Lonely Planet

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Stick-figure gods

KV34 · Tumba de Tutmosis III

مقبرة تحتمس الثالث · KV34

Hidden in a cleft up an iron stair: an oval chamber and gods drawn as stick figures, unique in all Egypt.

Tip: It is 30 iron steps in full sun before the door: do it early and with water, never at midday.

🚇 Public ferry 1 EGP + 14 min taxi

Featured in: UNESCO · National Geographic

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Left mid-brushstroke

KV57 · Tumba de Horemheb

مقبرة حور محب · KV57

The general turned pharaoh died with his tomb half painted: red sketch lines and the master's corrections show.

Tip: It is the best free lesson in how a tomb got painted: red sketch, black outline, then colour, in that order.

🚇 Public ferry 1 EGP + 15 min taxi

Featured in: UNESCO · Rough Guides

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The Valley of the Monkeys

Valle Oeste · Tumba de Ay

وادي القرود · WV23

A lonely desert branch holding Tutankhamun's successor's tomb, famous for the twelve baboons on its chamber wall.

Tip: You need a taxi down a separate track: agree it waits — nobody drives back out to collect you.

🚇 Public ferry 1 EGP + 17 min taxi

Featured in: Atlas Obscura · Rough Guides

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Queens and princes

Valle de las Reinas

وادي الملكات · West Bank

Nearly 90 tombs of royal wives and pharaohs' children in a wadi smaller and far quieter than the Kings'.

Tip: The general ticket covers three princes' tombs; Nefertari is separate, with a capped daily quota.

🚇 Public ferry 1 EGP + 14 min taxi

Featured in: UNESCO · Lonely Planet

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Capped daily entry

QV66 · Tumba de Nefertari

مقبرة نفرتاري · QV66

Egypt's Sistine Chapel: Ramses II's favourite wife under a starred ceiling, the most vivid colour in the country.

Tip: A fixed number of people enter daily and your time inside is timed: buy the ticket the minute you arrive.

🚇 Public ferry 1 EGP + 14 min taxi

Featured in: UNESCO · National Geographic · Condé Nast Traveler

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Colour almost untouched

QV55 · Amonherkhepshef

آمون حر خبشف · QV55

The tomb of Ramses III's teenage son: the pharaoh appears leading the boy before the gods, god by god.

Tip: It is the best colour-per-pound tomb in the Valley of the Queens if Nefertari blew your budget.

🚇 Public ferry 1 EGP + 14 min taxi

Featured in: UNESCO · Rough Guides

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Three terraces of rock

Templo de Hatshepsut

الدير البحري · Deir el-Bahari

Three terraces set into an amphitheatre of cliffs: the most modern-looking building of ancient Egypt by 3,500 years.

Tip: Find the Punt portico on the middle terrace: the relief of Punt's fat queen, the New Kingdom's own running joke.

🚇 Public ferry 1 EGP + 13 min taxi

Featured in: UNESCO · National Geographic · Lonely Planet

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The colour that survived

Medinet Habu

مدينة هابو · West Bank

Ramses III's fortress-temple, its reliefs cut so deep they still hold pigment: Luxor's best open-air colour.

Tip: Come mid-afternoon: sun floods the second court and the blue ceilings genuinely light up.

🚇 Public ferry 1 EGP + 11 min taxi

Featured in: UNESCO · Lonely Planet · Atlas Obscura

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The Ozymandias colossus

El Ramesseum

الرامسيوم · West Bank

Ramses II's mortuary temple and the shattered thousand-ton colossus that inspired Shelley's Ozymandias unseen.

Tip: Behind it stand the vaulted mudbrick storerooms: three thousand years of mud brick still up, and ignored.

🚇 Public ferry 1 EGP + 10 min taxi

Featured in: UNESCO · Atlas Obscura · Lonely Planet

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Free, no opening hours

Colosos de Memnón

تمثالا ممنون · West Bank

Two 18 m colossi alone in the fields: Greeks came to hear the north one sing at dawn, until Rome repaired it.

Tip: Behind them Amenhotep III's temple is being dug out, more colossi already re-raised: look past the famous two.

🚇 Public ferry 1 EGP + 9 min taxi

Featured in: UNESCO · Lonely Planet · National Geographic

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A dig you can watch

Templo de Amenhotep III

معبد أمنحتب الثالث · Kom el-Hettan

Egypt's largest mortuary temple ever, flattened by an earthquake and now re-emerging colossus by colossus.

Tip: The German mission works October to March: in season you can watch a statue being lifted out live.

🚇 Ferry + 9 min taxi · Colossi of Memnon

Featured in: UNESCO · National Geographic

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The workers' village

Deir el-Medina

دير المدينة · West Bank

The walled village of the artisans who dug the Valley of the Kings: streets, houses, and history's first strike.

Tip: These workers left thousands of ostraca with gossip, debts and recipes: the most human site in the necropolis.

🚇 Public ferry 1 EGP + 12 min taxi

Featured in: UNESCO · Atlas Obscura · Rough Guides

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One perfect vault

TT1 · Tumba de Sennedjem

مقبرة سنجم · Deir el-Medina

A single vaulted chamber the artisan painted for himself: the Fields of Iaru in fierce yellow and blue.

Tip: You go down a narrow stair into a low chamber: leave a big backpack up top, it will not fit.

🚇 Public ferry 1 EGP + 12 min taxi

Featured in: UNESCO · National Geographic

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Drinking under the palm

TT3 · Tumba de Pashedu

مقبرة باشدو · Deir el-Medina

A tiny vault with Deir el-Medina's most copied scene: Pashedu kneeling to drink beside a date palm.

Tip: The entry corridor is long and very low: you go in almost crouching, but the far chamber repays it.

🚇 Public ferry 1 EGP + 12 min taxi

Featured in: UNESCO · Atlas Obscura

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The Judgement of Osiris

Templo de Hathor en Deir el-Medina

معبد حتحور · Deir el-Medina

An intact little Ptolemaic temple above the workers' village, its weighing-of-the-soul scene still strong in colour.

Tip: Same ticket as the village, and almost nobody climbs the twenty steps: the judgement scene is on the right.

🚇 Public ferry 1 EGP + 12 min taxi

Featured in: UNESCO · Rough Guides

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Life, not the afterlife

Tumbas de los Nobles

مقابر النبلاء · Sheikh Abd el-Qurna

A hillside riddled with officials' tombs: no underworld here, but banquets, hunting, wine and music.

Tip: Tickets are sold in pairs or trios of tombs: Sennefer and Rekhmire are the two not to compromise on.

🚇 Public ferry 1 EGP + 12 min taxi

Featured in: UNESCO · Lonely Planet · Rough Guides

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How everything was made

TT100 · Tumba de Rekhmire

مقبرة رخمي رع · Nobles

Thutmose III's vizier had every trade in the empire painted: brickmakers, goldsmiths, ropers, tribute from Punt and Crete.

Tip: The back wall ramps up eight metres: it is effectively an illustrated manual of Egypt in 1450 BC.

🚇 Public ferry 1 EGP + 11 min taxi

Featured in: UNESCO · National Geographic

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The three musicians

TT52 · Tumba de Nakht

مقبرة نخت · Nobles

The tiny tomb of an astronomer of Amun holding Egyptian art's most reproduced scene: three girls on harp, lute and flute.

Tip: It is a very small room taking five people: if a group is inside, wait ten minutes and have it to yourself.

🚇 Public ferry 1 EGP + 11 min taxi

Featured in: UNESCO · Rough Guides

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The fields in full colour

TT69 · Tumba de Menna

مقبرة منا · Nobles

Amun's field inspector had the whole harvest painted: surveyors, threshing, and a girl pulling a thorn from her foot.

Tip: Look for Menna's scratched-out eyes: an enemy came in after burial to blind him and curse his afterlife.

🚇 Public ferry 1 EGP + 11 min taxi

Featured in: UNESCO · Lonely Planet

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The Amarna break, live

TT55 · Tumba de Ramose

مقبرة رع مس · Nobles

The tomb where the style shift happens live: one wall in flawless classical relief, the opposite one already Amarna.

Tip: It was left unfinished because Ramose followed Akhenaten to the new capital: that blank wall records a move.

🚇 Public ferry 1 EGP + 11 min taxi

Featured in: UNESCO · National Geographic · Atlas Obscura

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25th dynasty tombs

Al-Asasif

العساسيف · West Bank

The strip between Deir el-Bahari and the Nobles where Nubian and Saite grandees cut palace-tombs under the causeway.

Tip: This is where the finds that make the news turn up each season: ask at the ticket office what opened this year.

🚇 Public ferry 1 EGP + 11 min taxi

Featured in: UNESCO · National Geographic

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Finest relief on the bank

Templo de Seti I en Gurna

معبد سيتي الأول · Gurna

The first temple as you come off the ferry and the most ignored: Seti I's relief is technically the West Bank's best.

Tip: It is always empty and ten minutes from the dock: the ideal afternoon stop once the valleys have closed.

🚇 Public ferry 1 EGP + 9 min taxi

Featured in: UNESCO · Rough Guides · Atlas Obscura

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His house, as it was

Casa de Howard Carter

بيت هوارد كارتر · Gurna

The domed mudbrick house Carter lived in through the discovery seasons, restored with his furniture, darkroom and bed.

Tip: Next door sits an exact painted replica of Tutankhamun's tomb: this is how the real chamber has to be imagined.

🚇 Public ferry 1 EGP + 11 min taxi

Featured in: National Geographic · Atlas Obscura · Condé Nast Traveler

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October to April season

Globos aerostáticos al amanecer

منطاد الأقصر · West Bank

Dozens of balloons lift off in the dark from the fields between Gurna and the Ramesseum, the sun rising over the Nile.

Tip: Pickup is at 4am and wind cancels flights: book it for your first morning so you have a spare day to retry.

🚇 Public ferry 1 EGP + 9 min taxi

Featured in: CNN Travel · Condé Nast Traveler · TikTok viral

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20th-century mud brick

Palacio de la Cultura de Hassan Fathy

قصر ثقافة القرنة · New Gurna

The heart of New Gurna, the village Hassan Fathy built in 1948 from mud alone, no air conditioning: a cult of architecture.

Tip: Step in and touch the wall: at high noon the mud brick is cool. That was Fathy's whole case against concrete.

🚇 Public ferry 1 EGP + 5 min taxi

Featured in: UNESCO · Atlas Obscura · Rough Guides

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Site museum with A/C

Templo de Merenptah y su museo

معبد مرنبتاح · West Bank

A rebuilt mortuary temple with a small covered museum beside it, home to the copy of the Israel Stele.

Tip: The museum has air conditioning and clean toilets: keep it as your bolt-hole for the worst midday hour.

🚇 Ferry + 10 min taxi · Colossi of Memnon

Featured in: UNESCO · Rough Guides

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Where to eat in Luxor: restaurants

Luxor's benchmark

Sofra Restaurant & Lounge

صفرة · 1930s house

A 1930s townhouse of courtyards, mashrabiyas and a roof terrace: the Egyptian table done right, molokheya to stuffed pigeon.

Tip: Ask for a roof table and start with the mezze: twelve little dishes that are worth the whole dinner alone.

🚇 Railway Station · 6 min walk

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Terrace over the souk

Al-Sahaby Lane

الصحابي لين · Sharia el-Souk

A rooftop over the souk with Luxor Temple in view, above a boutique hotel: clay tagines, kofta and a karkadeh list.

Tip: Book for sunset: the call to prayer from Abu el-Haggag lands exactly when the food comes out.

🚇 Luxor Souk · 5 min walk

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Jacket required

1886 Restaurant

مطعم ١٨٨٦ · Winter Palace

The Winter Palace's gala dining room: chandeliers, damask and Franco-Egyptian cooking served as in 1907, dress code on.

Tip: If the formal dinner is too much, drink on the hotel's Nile Terrace instead: same history, half the ritual.

🚇 Winter Palace · 2 min walk

Featured in: Condé Nast Traveler · Lonely Planet

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Neighbourhood koshari

Oum Hashim

ام هاشم · East Luxor

A real Egyptian canteen: koshari in aluminium bowls, ful medames with oil and lemon, and ta'ameya straight from the fryer.

Tip: Order koshari with double garlic-vinegar sauce, the dakka: that is how locals eat it, not the tourist way.

🚇 Luxor Souk · 6 min walk

Featured in: TasteAtlas · Time Out · TikTok viral

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Grill on the street

Kher and Baraka

خير وبركة · Kebab and kofta

A neighbourhood grill with the coals on the pavement: lamb kofta, kebab and aish baladi coming out of the oven alongside.

Tip: You order by weight, not by portion: half a kilo of mixed kofta comfortably feeds two, salads thrown in.

🚇 Luxor Souk · 4 min walk

Featured in: TasteAtlas · TripAdvisor trending

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Charcoal grill

El Kababgy

الكبابجي · South Corniche

A Corniche-side grill house where you pick the meat at the counter: shish tawook, kofta and spiced liver.

Tip: Ask for Alexandrian-style liver heavy on cumin: the Egyptian street dish that rarely makes it onto menus.

🚇 Winter Palace · 4 min walk

Featured in: TasteAtlas · Time Out

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Facing the temple

Aboudi Restaurant

مطعم عبودي · Luxor Temple

An air-conditioned dining room straight across from Luxor Temple: a long Egyptian menu and a midday refuge.

Tip: It is run by the same family as the bookshop next door: eat upstairs, then browse the Egyptology shelves.

🚇 Luxor Temple · 3 min walk

Featured in: Lonely Planet · Rough Guides

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Quick shawarma

Snack Time

سناك تايم · Luxor Temple

A shawarma and ta'ameya sandwich counter beside the temple: cheap, very fast and open late.

Tip: The ta'ameya sandwich with baba ghanoush and pickles is the local breakfast: grab one before the morning ferry.

🚇 Luxor Temple · 3 min walk

Featured in: TasteAtlas · TripAdvisor trending

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Station hati

Elhaty Restaurant

مطعم الحاتي · Sharia al-Mahatta

A classic hati near the station: lentil soup, liver, brains, and coals going from noon until late.

Tip: Start with shorbet ads, the lemony lentil soup: in Egypt it comes before everything, even at 35 degrees.

🚇 Railway Station · 2 min walk

Featured in: TasteAtlas · Time Out

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No tourists here

El Hareef Grills

حاتي الحريف · South Luxor

The grill of the Luxor nobody visits: plastic tables on the pavement, charcoal kofta and bread fetched from the bakery.

Tip: Nobody speaks English and there is no menu: point at the grill, say nus kilo for half a kilo, and you are set.

🚇 Khaled ibn el-Walid · 12 min walk

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Homemade, unhurried

Chez Omar · Egyptian Corner

الركن المصري · Sharia el-Souk

Egyptian home cooking on the edge of the souk: clay tagine, rabbit molokheya and rice-with-vermicelli exactly like grandma's.

Tip: Molokheya is made to order, so flag it when you arrive and eat it at the end of your wander.

🚇 Luxor Souk · 5 min walk

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Ful from 6am

Abo Ashraf

أبو أشرف · East Luxor

A ful and ta'ameya cart that opens at dawn on a residential corner: breakfast for people heading to work.

Tip: Get there before 9: when the ful pot is done they close, whatever the clock says.

🚇 Railway Station · 4 min walk

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Middle of the bazaar

Alaa el Din

علاء الدين · Sharia el-Souk

A fan-cooled room right on the souk street, its menu mixing tagines, pasta and pizza for every kind of appetite.

Tip: Perfect for half an hour away from bazaar hustling: sit down, drink cold karkadeh, come out with fresh patience.

🚇 Luxor Souk · 3 min walk

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Hotel-strip terrace

Jewel of the Nile

جوهرة النيل · Khaled ibn el-Walid

A terrace on the southern hotel avenue serving tagines, Nile fish and shisha as the sun drops.

Tip: Order the Nile prawn tagine: it arrives bubbling in the clay pot and is plenty for two.

🚇 Khaled ibn el-Walid · 5 min walk

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Italian wood oven

Pizza Roma.it

بيتزا روما · Khaled ibn el-Walid

Luxor's Italian, run by a Roman for over a decade: thin crust, wood-fired oven and fresh pasta.

Tip: It is the best move if you travel with kids five days deep into tagine fatigue: nobody complains about pizza.

🚇 Winter Palace · 18 min walk

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Pasta and gelato

Mamma Mia

ماما ميا · Khaled ibn el-Walid

A corner trattoria on the hotel strip with big pasta plates, pizza and a gelato counter that rescues hot afternoons.

Tip: The seasonal mango gelato is the actual reason to come: it only exists while the Egyptian harvest lasts.

🚇 Winter Palace · 18 min walk

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A break from tagine

Kam Thai

كام تاي · Khaled ibn el-Walid

A Thai kitchen with an actual Thai cook in south Luxor: curries, pad thai and heat negotiable dish by dish.

Tip: Ask for Thai-level heat only if you mean it: here they take that literally and do not tone it down.

🚇 Khaled ibn el-Walid · 4 min walk

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Shawarma till late

El Zaeem

الزعيم · East Luxor

A shawarma, Egyptian pizza and chips joint that does not shutter until the small hours: the late-night fix.

Tip: Try the savoury feteer meshaltet, Egypt's thousand-layer buttered pastry: one of the best in town.

🚇 Winter Palace · 5 min walk

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Broad-bean falafel

Bondok

بندق · East Luxor

An open ta'ameya fryer on a neighbourhood corner: Egyptian falafel, green inside, is made from broad beans, not chickpeas.

Tip: Order them straight from the fryer, sesame-crusted: if they have been sitting, wait for the next batch.

🚇 Winter Palace · 6 min walk

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Nile fish

Al Mina

الميناء · North Corniche

A dining room on the north Corniche built around grilled river fish, coarse salt and the obligatory lemon.

Tip: Pick the whole grilled bolti (tilapia) over a fillet: in Egypt fish is eaten on the bone or not at all.

🚇 Ferry 1 EGP · 12 min walk in Gezira

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Theban mountain view

Nile Panorama

بانوراما النيل · North Corniche

A river terrace north of the centre with the Colossi and the Theban mountain cut out against the setting sun.

Tip: It is the cheapest good spot to watch the balloons land in the morning if you missed your own flight.

🚇 Ferry 1 EGP · 13 min walk in Gezira

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Right out of Karnak

El Karnak Restaurant

الكرنك · Karnak

A plain dining room steps from the Karnak exit: Egyptian plates, fans and the iced karkadeh that brings you back.

Tip: The natural stop after three hours in the temple: order iced karkadeh before water, it kills thirst better.

🚇 Karnak · 5 min walk

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Mediterranean with a view

Olives · Hilton Luxor

أوليفز · Hilton Luxor

The Hilton's Mediterranean north of Karnak, glass onto the Nile and fish, mezze and pasta all properly done.

Tip: Book a window table for dusk: from here the sun sinks straight behind the Valley of the Kings.

🚇 10 min calèche from Karnak

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Dinner in the garden

Gerda's Garden

حديقة جيردا · North Karnak

Tables under the trees in a garden north of Karnak, homestyle Euro-Egyptian cooking and a quiet Luxor rarely gives.

Tip: Let them know you are coming: they cook to bookings and in low season may not open at all.

🚇 11 min calèche from Karnak

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Pints and local Stella

The King's Head Pub

كينجز هيد · Khaled ibn el-Walid

Luxor's veteran British pub, where archaeologists, guides and expats land: Egyptian Stella beer, darts and fish and chips.

Tip: October to March this is where the digs cross paths: the best table in Luxor for overhearing what is really going on.

🚇 Khaled ibn el-Walid · 5 min walk

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The archaeologists' table

Marsam Hotel Restaurant

مرسم · Gurna

A 1940s mudbrick hotel between the Colossi and the Ramesseum: half the necropolis eats here once the season starts.

Tip: In dig season the tables fill with missions: sit close and listen, it beats any guided tour.

🚇 Ferry + 10 min taxi · Colossi of Memnon

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Their own vegetable plot

Nour el Balad

نور البلد · Malqata

A farmhouse at the desert edge with its own plot: everything on the table was cut that morning fifty metres away.

Tip: Give them a few hours' notice for hamam mahshi, freekeh-stuffed pigeon, Upper Egypt's signature dish.

🚇 Ferry + 12 min taxi · Medinet Habu

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Rooftop facing the river

Nile Valley Hotel Restaurant

وادي النيل · Gezira

A Gezira rooftop with the Nile in front and Luxor Temple lit on the far bank: the best cheap view in town.

Tip: Take the six o'clock ferry and climb up: the sun drops behind the mountain, then the temple lights up opposite.

🚇 Ferry 1 EGP · 4 min walk in Gezira

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Family-run, generous

Africa Restaurant

مطعم أفريقيا · Gezira

A family place in Gezira cooking Egyptian without shortcuts: chicken tagine, moussaka and salads that arrive unasked.

Tip: The mezze they bring out first are included: do not send them back, they are part of the meal and the welcome.

🚇 Ferry 1 EGP · 4 min walk in Gezira

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Rooftop two blocks in

Sunflower Restaurant

عباد الشمس · Gezira

A plain Gezira rooftop two blocks from the dock, clay tagines and karkadeh brought out in an iced jug.

Tip: One of the few West Bank kitchens still serving after ten: useful if you come back late from Medinet Habu.

🚇 Ferry 1 EGP · 6 min walk in Gezira

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Simple regional cooking

Thebes Restaurant

طيبة · Gezira

A Gezira dining room cooking Upper Egyptian food: lamb fattah, liver rice and baladi salad.

Tip: Order fattah: toasted bread, rice, lamb broth and garlic vinegar, Egypt's celebration dish everywhere.

🚇 Ferry 1 EGP · 8 min walk in Gezira

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Arab and Med kitchen

Blue Sky Restaurant

السماء الزرقاء · Gezira

A Gezira rooftop looking over the river, Arab and Mediterranean menu, tables set outside as soon as the heat drops.

Tip: You can watch the balloons launch from here at a six o'clock breakfast: bad coffee, free show.

🚇 Ferry 1 EGP · 8 min walk in Gezira

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Uncompromised Egyptian

Nile Freedom

حرية النيل · Gezira

Unadapted Egyptian cooking deep in Gezira: fiercely green molokheya, rabbit tagine and proper Egyptian rice.

Tip: Molokheya splits people on texture alone: try it anyway, it is what Egyptians abroad miss most.

🚇 Ferry 1 EGP · 13 min walk in Gezira

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Nubian food and colour

Nubian House

البيت النوبي · Gezira

A house painted blue and yellow Nubian-style, dinner in the courtyard, live music some nights and southern cooking.

Tip: Nubian food is not Egyptian food: order the lamb tagine with dates, made here from the riverside harvest.

🚇 Ferry 1 EGP · 17 min walk in Gezira

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River fish

Alcaptain Restaurant

الكابتن · Gezira

A fishmonger-canteen in Gezira: pick your Nile fish off the ice and it comes grilled or fried, with tahini and baladi bread.

Tip: Ask for grilled rather than fried: frying buries the bolti's flavour, which is delicate and dies in oil.

🚇 Ferry 1 EGP · 12 min walk in Gezira

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Next to the Colossi

Paris Restaurant

باريس · Colossi of Memnon

A dining room steps from the Colossi of Memnon: basic Egyptian plates, cold drinks and a clean toilet where there is nothing.

Tip: The logical lunch stop if you do the Valley of the Kings in the morning and Medinet Habu after.

🚇 Ferry + 7 min taxi · Colossi of Memnon

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Local and traveller mix

El Fayrouz

الفيروز · Gezira

A Gezira dining room mixing Egyptian menu and international plates for travellers weeks deep into the country.

Tip: Good for groups that cannot agree: tagine for the brave, pasta for the ones who already gave up.

🚇 Ferry 1 EGP · 8 min walk in Gezira

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Palm-shaded courtyard

El Waha

الواحة · Gezira

A palm-shaded courtyard metres from the Gezira dock: grills, tagines and outdoor tables once the sun drops over the river.

Tip: First stop off the ferry if you land hungry: eat, then keep walking to the temples without a taxi.

🚇 Ferry 1 EGP · 5 min walk in Gezira

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Clay tagines only

Mamlouk Tagine

طواجن المملوك · North Gezira

A specialist in oven-baked clay-pot tagines: meat, chicken, okra or prawn, every one served bubbling.

Tip: The okra-and-beef tagine is the most Egyptian of the lot: order it with baladi bread and no cutlery.

🚇 Ferry 1 EGP · 10 min walk in Gezira

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Lunch on the farm

Farmer's House

بيت الفلاح · South West Bank

A farmhouse at the southern West Bank ringed by sugarcane: country lunch with clay-oven bread and local vegetables.

Tip: In October the cane is being cut all around: ask for freshly pressed sugarcane juice, nothing compares.

🚇 Public ferry 1 EGP + 7 min taxi

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Facing Banana Island

Aladdin's Kingdom

مملكة علاء الدين · South West Bank

An open-air dining spot facing Banana Island, natural landing for sunset feluccas on the west shore.

Tip: Many feluccas stop here on the way back: agree with the captain on a twenty-minute landing before you set off.

🚇 Public ferry 1 EGP + 7 min taxi

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Lit-up Luxor opposite

Temple View Restaurant

تمبل فيو · Gezira

A Gezira rooftop looking across at a floodlit Luxor Temple: plain dinner with the best cheap postcard in town.

Tip: Get there before six for a railing table: the four along the edge fill up and nobody leaves them.

🚇 Ferry 1 EGP · 9 min walk in Gezira

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Over the canal

Sunset Restaurant

صن سيت · Gezira

An inland Gezira terrace over an irrigation canal, buffalo walking past and the Theban mountain behind at sundown.

Tip: Ask for the back table over the canal: from there you watch the farmers come home with the day's crop.

🚇 Ferry 1 EGP · 11 min walk in Gezira

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Tables on the sand

Little Nile Beach

شاطئ النيل الصغير · Gezira

A little sand beach on the Nile at Gezira's southern edge, tables at the waterline and simple grilled food.

Tip: The one place in Luxor where you sit with your feet nearly in the Nile: save it for your last afternoon.

🚇 Ferry 1 EGP · 16 min walk in Gezira

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Mud brick, clay oven

Rustic House

البيت الريفي · South West Bank

A mudbrick house on the southern west shore cooking Arab food in a clay oven, low tables out in the yard.

Tip: Book the courtyard dinner ahead: they only set out the mats and cushions if they know you are coming.

🚇 Public ferry 1 EGP + 3 min taxi

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Specialty coffee in Luxor

Five o'clock tea, 1907

Nile Terrace · Winter Palace

تراس النيل · Winter Palace

The 1907 hotel's Nile terrace: tea, karkadeh and gin and tonic at the very tables where Howard Carter waited.

Tip: You do not need to be a guest: order something and stay two hours watching feluccas. Nobody hurries you.

🚇 Luxor Temple · 8 min walk

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Shisha facing the temple

Ali Baba Cafe

علي بابا · Luxor Temple

An ahwa with street tables opposite Luxor Temple: Turkish coffee, karkadeh and apple shisha well past midnight.

Tip: Shisha is ordered by flavour and shared: the Egyptian classic is moassel tufah, double apple, not mint.

🚇 Luxor Temple · 3 min walk

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A real ahwa

Coffee Shop Aal al-Bayt

قهوة آل البيت · Sharia el-Souk

A neighbourhood ahwa by the souk: wicker chairs on the pavement, backgammon, over-sugared tea and no tourists.

Tip: The ahwa is Egypt's male social club: sit, order shai, and nobody speaks to you until you start.

🚇 Luxor Souk · 4 min walk

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Corner coffee house

Abo Eltaher

أبو الطاهر · East Luxor

A corner ahwa where the neighbourhood shouts at the football and shai baladi comes in a handleless glass.

Tip: Ask for shai bil na'na and say sukkar khafif unless you want three spoons: the default is very sweet.

🚇 Railway Station · 6 min walk

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Waiting for the sleeper

Station Cafeteria

كافتيريا المحطة · Sharia al-Mahatta

The cafeteria beside the station where you kill time before the Cairo train: shai, Turkish coffee and a fan.

Tip: Sleeper trains here run late almost by default: this is the roofed place to wait without paying for a room.

🚇 Luxor Souk · 10 min walk

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Modern Egyptian café

Shababik Luxor Cafe

كافيه شبابيك · Khaled ibn el-Walid

Egyptian-style specialty café in south Luxor: decent espresso, fresh juices, smoothies and wifi that actually works.

Tip: This is where young Luxor gathers at night: the one café in town with genuinely mixed tables.

🚇 Khaled ibn el-Walid · 4 min walk

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Actual espresso

Rmallah Coffee

رمالة · Khaled ibn el-Walid

One of the few places in Luxor grinding to order: flat white, cold brew and shai baladi so as not to betray the block.

Tip: If you are weeks into hotel Nescafé, this is the reset: order cold brew, the only sane choice at 38 degrees.

🚇 Winter Palace · 19 min walk

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Shisha and backgammon

Lotus Cafe

لوتس · South Luxor

A southside ahwa with tawla boards on every table and shisha smoke hanging under the awning until late.

Tip: Tawla is Egyptian backgammon and it is played fast: accept a game, you will lose, but you gain conversation.

🚇 Khaled ibn el-Walid · 6 min walk

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South of everything

Arabia Cafeteria

كافتيريا العربية · South Luxor

A cafeteria at the far south of town beyond the resorts: juices, shisha and the Luxor that lives off tourism's map.

Tip: Juices are ordered by fruit and blended on the spot: guava in October is the one to ask for.

🚇 Khaled ibn el-Walid · 14 min walk

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Ahwa on the road

Ghoreya Cafe

قهوة الغورية · Karnak road

An ahwa halfway between Luxor Temple and Karnak on the avenue: the tea and shisha stop of those walking it.

Tip: If you are walking the Avenue of Sphinxes, this is the only shade at the halfway mark. There is no other.

🚇 Karnak · 12 min walk

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Straight out of Karnak

Karnak Stuff Cafe

كرنك ستاف · Karnak

A roofed, cooled café at the Karnak gate: the first shade after three hours of stone in full sun.

Tip: Drink iced karkadeh before you move on: cold hibiscus is Upper Egypt's own coolant and it works.

🚇 Karnak · 3 min walk

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North, by the river

Genesis Cafe

جينيسيس · North Karnak

A Nile-side café north of Karnak, terrace on the water and tables turned to face the West Bank at dusk.

Tip: The whole Theban mountain is visible at sundown from here: the East Bank's best sunset, and it is free.

🚇 Karnak · 22 min walk

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Cocktails with A/C

JJ's Bar · Hilton Luxor

جي جيز · Hilton Luxor

The Hilton's bar north of Karnak: hotel cocktails, air conditioning and the longest Egyptian wine list in town.

Tip: Try an Egyptian red from the Delta: it is not Burgundy, but it is part of the trip and you will not find it abroad.

🚇 Karnak · 22 min walk

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Tea under banana trees

Banana Island Cafe

جزيرة الموز · Banana Island

A tea and juice stand on the banana islet where the felucca lands: huge-leaf shade and bananas cut on the spot.

Tip: Bedouin mint tea is served boiling even at 40 degrees: in Egypt that is what genuinely cools you down.

🚇 Public ferry 1 EGP + 7 min taxi

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Tea by the canal

Nile Rose Café

وردة النيل · Gezira

A café-restaurant inland in Gezira among the vegetable plots, cool outdoor tables and freshly pressed cane juice.

Tip: Cane juice, asab, is pressed in front of you and drunk immediately: October is harvest and it peaks then.

🚇 Ferry 1 EGP · 14 min walk in Gezira

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Ahwa at the dock

Al Moez Ahwa

المعز · Gezira

A West Bank ahwa beside the dock: taxi drivers and guides wait for the ferry here over shai and a shisha.

Tip: This is where the day's taxi prices get set: listen for ten minutes before you bargain and you will pay less.

🚇 Ferry 1 EGP · 5 min walk in Gezira

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Shisha and tea only

Ahwa del muelle de Gezira

قهوة الشيشة · Gezira

An unnamed, menuless shisha stand facing the landing: three flavours, tea, and the view of the ferry coming in.

Tip: Shisha here costs a fifth of Corniche prices: cross the river just to smoke one and come back.

🚇 Ferry 1 EGP · 4 min walk in Gezira

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Tea facing the pylon

Ramses Cafe · Medinet Habu

قهوة رمسيس · Medinet Habu

An awninged tea room facing Medinet Habu: iced karkadeh, mint tea and the whole temple across the road.

Tip: Sit down at four in the afternoon: the sun hits the pylon full on and you watch the colour shift from your table.

🚇 Ferry + 10 min taxi · Medinet Habu

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Coffee at first light

Panorama Cafe · Gurna

قهوة بانوراما · Gurna

A raised Gurna terrace that opens at five in balloon season: coffee, tea and the necropolis spread below.

Tip: Book a railing table the night before: at 5.30 in high season there is not a free spot left up there.

🚇 Public ferry 1 EGP + 10 min taxi

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Asab, pressed to order

Zumos de caña de Sharia al-Mahatta

عصير قصب · Sharia al-Mahatta

The station street is lined with spinning cane presses: a glass of green asab for next to nothing.

Tip: Drink it on the spot, never bottled: asab ferments within twenty minutes and that is when it turns on you.

🚇 Railway Station · 2 min walk

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Gelato until midnight

Tutti Frutti Gelato

توتي فروتي · Khaled ibn el-Walid

A gelato counter on the hotel strip open until midnight: mango, date and the Italian classics.

Tip: The date one is the one to try: made with the October harvest from the palms on the riverbank itself.

🚇 Khaled ibn el-Walid · 2 min walk

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Shopping in Luxor: where to shop

Haggling is mandatory

Souk de Luxor

سوق الأقصر · Sharia el-Souk

A covered street behind Luxor Temple: spices, loose karkadeh, scarves, galabeyas and haggling as a sport.

Tip: Open at a third and walk away smiling: the real price sits near half of whatever they say first.

🚇 Luxor Temple · 5 min walk

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Fixed price, no haggling

Habiba Gallery

حبيبة · Sharia el-Souk

Hand-woven textiles by women from Upper Egyptian villages, fixed prices and the weaver's name on the label.

Tip: There is no haggling here, and that is the point: the price you see is what the weaver gets, printed on the tag.

🚇 Luxor Temple · 4 min walk

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Genuine fair trade

Caravanserai

كارافانسراي · Medinet Habu

A mudbrick house beside Medinet Habu selling fair-trade craft from all Egypt: basketry, rugs and oasis pottery.

Tip: Ask to see the back courtyard: the looms are in use and you can watch the weaving, it is not a staged show.

🚇 Ferry + 10 min taxi · Medinet Habu

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Serious Egyptology

Aboudi Bookshop

مكتبة عبودي · Luxor Temple

Luxor's Egyptology bookshop since 1909: tomb maps, academic titles and the guides the bazaar does not carry.

Tip: Buy the Theban necropolis tomb map before you cross: you will not find it anywhere on the West Bank.

🚇 Luxor Temple · 3 min walk

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Carved in front of you

Fábricas de alabastro de Gurna

مصنع الألباستر · Gurna

Family workshops at the foot of the Theban mountain turning alabaster by hand exactly as three thousand years ago.

Tip: Real alabaster lets light through: ask them to hold a torch behind any piece before you buy it.

🚇 Public ferry 1 EGP + 9 min taxi

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How papyrus is made

Le Scarabée Papyrus

متحف البردي · New Gurna

A papyrus workshop-museum in New Gurna showing the full process, from cut reed to painted sheet.

Tip: Real papyrus creases and springs back; banana leaf cracks. Fold a corner before you pay, always.

🚇 Public ferry 1 EGP + 5 min taxi

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By the Karnak exit

New Delta Papyrus

نيو دلتا بردي · Karnak

A papyrus workshop at the Karnak exit with painters working in view and pieces signed by the artist.

Tip: Ask for an unpainted sheet and have your name written in hieroglyphs: far cheaper than the painted ones.

🚇 Karnak · 2 min walk

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Local fruit and veg

Mercado de la Estación

سوق الخضار · East Luxor

The fruit and vegetable market Luxor actually shops at: harvest dates, guava, seasonal mango and loose spices.

Tip: October is date harvest: the fresh yellow crunchy ones are nothing like the dried export version.

🚇 Winter Palace · 8 min walk

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Zero tourists

Mercado local de Karnak

السوق المحلي · Karnak

A neighbourhood market east of town where you will not see a single tourist: vegetables, live chickens and workwear.

Tip: Go early on a Friday: it is the big market day and the farmers come in from the riverside villages.

🚇 Railway Station · 18 min walk

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Souvenirs by the crate

Touist Market

سوق السياح · Sharia el-Souk

The souvenir stretch of the souk: scarabs, Nefertiti busts, magnets and everything you must haggle down by half.

Tip: Anything sold as from the tomb is painted resin: buy what you like, never what they swear it is.

🚇 Luxor Temple · 5 min walk

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Spices by weight

Basar del Templo

بازار · Sharia el-Souk

A souk spice and karkadeh shop with Egyptian saffron, cumin, dried hibiscus and ready-mixed tagine blends.

Tip: Egyptian saffron is safflower, not saffron: fine for colour and cheap as it should be. Do not pay saffron prices.

🚇 Luxor Souk · 5 min walk

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Galabeyas made to measure

Jalabiya Party

جلابية بارتي · Gezira

A Gezira tailor stitching made-to-measure galabeyas in Egyptian cotton: measured today, ready tomorrow.

Tip: Ask for real Egyptian cotton, not the blend: it is heavier, creases differently and lasts ten times longer.

🚇 Ferry 1 EGP · 7 min walk in Gezira

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Where locals buy

Salma Textiles

سلمى · South Luxor

A neighbourhood clothing and fabric shop with no tourist markup: cotton by the metre, scarves and everyday galabeyas.

Tip: Cotton by the metre is one of the best things to take home from Egypt and weighs nothing: ask for three metres.

🚇 Khaled ibn el-Walid · 12 min walk

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Everyday shopping

Shopping Center de Luxor

المركز التجاري · South Luxor

A shopping arcade in south Luxor with perfumeries, clothes and electronics: the real mall, not the tourist one.

Tip: The best place to replace whatever broke on your trip without paying the Corniche surcharge.

🚇 Khaled ibn el-Walid · 7 min walk

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Bazaar for locals

Local Bazar

البازار المحلي · East Luxor

A neighbourhood bazaar east of the centre with housewares, jewellery and fabrics at prices nobody negotiates in English.

Tip: For silver jewellery without the tourist souk hustle, come here: you browse and nobody follows you.

🚇 Avenue of Sphinxes · 7 min walk

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Basbousa and baklava

Al Abd Bakery

مخبز العبد · New Gurna

A West Bank pastry shop with semolina basbousa, baklava and sweet feteer meshaltet straight from the oven.

Tip: Buy basbousa by weight mid-morning, while it is still warm and the syrup has not fully set.

🚇 Public ferry 1 EGP + 4 min taxi

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Aish baladi, oven-fresh

Panadería Atta

مخبز عطا · Gezira

A Gezira neighbourhood oven making aish baladi: the puffed wholemeal bread Egypt eats at every single meal.

Tip: It costs pennies and comes out every half hour: buy two and eat them walking, they never make it home.

🚇 Ferry 1 EGP · 11 min walk in Gezira

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Local contemporary art

Nout Art Store

متجر نون للفن · Gezira

The Nūn gallery shop in Gezira selling work by Luxor artists: prints, ceramics and textiles, all signed and numbered.

Tip: The small prints fit a suitcase without folding and cost less than a painted bazaar papyrus.

🚇 Ferry 1 EGP · 6 min walk in Gezira

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Official guides and maps

Ticket Office de Karnak

شباك تذاكر الكرنك · Karnak

Karnak's ticket office and official stand, also selling precinct maps and the open-air museum entry.

Tip: Buy the precinct map here: Karnak has thirty sub-sites and without it you miss half the good ones.

🚇 13 min calèche from Avenue of Sphinxes

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Supplies for the west

El Ngar Market

سوبر ماركت النجار · Gezira

The Gezira grocer where you load up on water, nuts and sunscreen before the valleys, which have no shops at all.

Tip: Carry two litres of water per person into the valleys: there is one stall inside and it charges triple.

🚇 Ferry 1 EGP · 6 min walk in Gezira

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Loose karkadeh

Elrabiea Supermarket

سوبر ماركت الربيع · Sharia al-Mahatta

The supermarket by the station where locals buy karkadeh, dates and spices by the kilo, at no souk markup.

Tip: Loose karkadeh here costs a fraction of the souk price and it is exactly the same hibiscus.

🚇 Railway Station · 2 min walk

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Stock up, no haggling

NOUS Supermarket

نوس · South Luxor

A modern supermarket in south Luxor with fixed prices: water, snacks and packaged Egyptian goods to take home.

Tip: Packaged date molasses and Egyptian tahini are the best edible souvenir and clear customs without drama.

🚇 Winter Palace · 9 min walk

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Take-home hookahs

V.I.P. Travel & Shisha

في آي بي · Gezira

A Gezira shop selling assembled hookahs, charcoal and molasses tobacco, and booking balloons and day taxis on the side.

Tip: If you buy a hookah, ask them to dismantle it and wrap the glass: otherwise it will not survive the flight home.

🚇 Ferry 1 EGP · 5 min walk in Gezira

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Last stop heading west

Hagag Market

سوبر ماركت حجاج · West Bank

A grocer in the southern West Bank, the last point with cold water and supplies before the fields and canals.

Tip: If you cycle to Medinet Habu or Malqata, load water here: after this there is nothing for six kilometres.

🚇 Public ferry 1 EGP + 3 min taxi

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