📍 Alexandria tourist map

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Things to do in Alexandria: the full list behind the map

This interactive map of Alexandria (Egypt) brings together 145 hand-picked places: 62 attractions, 34 restaurants, 35 cafés and 14 shops. It also includes 5 walking routes with their stops in order. For every place you get what it is, a practical tip and how to get there by public transport. It is free, works on your phone and needs no sign-up.

· Curated by the HOLASIM team · How we make the maps

Walking routes in Alexandria

Tap a route to see it drawn on the map, stop by stop.

Bahary, the Pharos and the fish

3 h · 2.5 km on foot through Anfushi · 7 stops

  1. Qaitbay, on the Pharos
  2. Greek lunch over the sea
  3. The fish auction
  4. Bahary's domes
  5. Turkish coffee outside
  6. Ptolemaic rock tombs
  7. Stretched ice cream to finish
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Cosmopolitan Alexandria

2.5 h · 1.8 km between Raml and Mansheya · 7 stops

  1. The city's living room
  2. The 1905 patisserie
  3. Where «Ithaka» was written
  4. The Jewish memory
  5. Durrell's hotel
  6. The 1908 Greek roaster
  7. Italian-style opera
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Graeco-Roman below the surface

3.5 h · 3 km, much of it below the surface · 6 stops

  1. Egypt's only Roman theatre
  2. 20,000 pieces, reopened
  3. Seasonal dates and guava
  4. Diocletian's column
  5. Three levels in the rock
  6. Viewpoint over the west harbour
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The library and the cape

3 h · 2.2 km along the Eastern Harbour · 7 stops

  1. The granite disc
  2. The suspended sphere
  3. The Ptolemies' cape
  4. A quick swim by the library
  5. The founding cemetery
  6. The city in three floors
  7. Walls and shade
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Eastern Corniche: Stanley to Montaza

4 h · 9 km by minibus and on foot · 7 stops

  1. Four towers over the sea
  2. The eastern cove
  3. Stained glass and diamonds
  4. Brands by the sea
  5. The painter's house
  6. The three bays
  7. The king's park
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Things to do in Alexandria: top attractions

The Pharos, in recycled stone

Citadel of Qaitbay

قلعة قايتباي · Bahary

The 1477 Mamluk fortress rises on the Pharos foundations and reuses the lighthouse's fallen blocks.

Tip: 200 EGP for foreigners (100 students), 9am-8pm daily; bring a card, many ticket desks no longer take cash.

🚇 minibus or taxi from Saad Zaghloul (2.0 km)

Featured in: Ministerio de Turismo y Antigüedades (egymonuments.gov.eg, oct 2026)

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The wonder that is gone

Site of the Lighthouse of Alexandria

منارة الإسكندرية · Bahary

No ruins stand here: the Pharos fell in earthquakes and its blocks lie underwater and inside Qaitbay.

Tip: The planned underwater museum is still unbuilt (the government restarted the survey in 2025): today you only see the site from the breakwater.

🚇 minibus or taxi from Saad Zaghloul (2.0 km)

Featured in: CairoScene (ago 2026) · UNESCO

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The architectural icon

Bibliotheca Alexandrina

مكتبة الإسكندرية · Chatby

A tilted Aswan-granite disc with 120,000 m² of halls, four museums and a wall carved in 120 alphabets.

Tip: Each door is priced separately: the inclusive foreigner ticket is 300 EGP (library + museums) and the Planetarium is a separate 200 EGP.

🚇 minibus or taxi from Mahatet El Raml (1.1 km)

Featured in: bibalex.org (admisiones, oct 2026)

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Science under the dome

Planetarium Science Center

مركز القبة السماوية العلمي · Chatby

The suspended sphere beside the library projects the Mediterranean sky and holds the ALEXploratorium for kids.

Tip: 200 EGP for foreigners, ALEXploratorium included; the History of Science Museum is closed for maintenance, so do not count on it.

🚇 minibus or taxi from Mahatet El Raml (1.1 km)

Featured in: bibalex.org (admisiones, oct 2026)

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Egypt and Rome on one wall

Catacombs of Kom el-Shoqafa

كوم الشقافة · Karmouz

Three rock-cut levels where funerary reliefs mix Anubis with Roman armour.

Tip: The lowest level only opened in 2019, after six 40 m wells dropped the water table; after heavy rain, ask before going down.

🚇 minibus to Bab al Melouk, then 7 min on foot

Featured in: Ministerio de Antigüedades · Al Jazeera (oct 2026)

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The most famous misnomer

Pompey's Pillar and the Serapeum

عمود السواري والحديقة الأثرية · Karmouz

The 27 m red-granite column was never Pompey's: it was raised for Diocletian around AD 298.

Tip: Go down into the rock-cut Serapeum galleries behind the column: almost nobody does, and it is the oldest part of the site.

🚇 minibus to Bab al Melouk, then 3 min on foot

Featured in: Ministerio de Turismo y Antigüedades

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Egypt's only Roman theatre

Roman Theatre of Kom el-Dikka

المسرح الروماني · Kom el-Dikka

Thirteen marble tiers, the only ones in Egypt, beside baths, lecture rooms and Byzantine mosaics.

Tip: 200 EGP for foreigners, 9am-5pm; the ticket covers the Villa of the Birds and pieces salvaged from the sunken harbour.

🚇 train to Mahattat Misr, then 4 min on foot

Featured in: Ministerio de Turismo y Antigüedades (egymonuments.gov.eg, oct 2026)

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The city's great comeback

Graeco-Roman Museum

المتحف اليونانى الرومانى · Raml Station

Reopened after nearly twenty years of works: 20,000 pieces in an 1895 neoclassical building with a statue courtyard.

Tip: It is the city's priciest ticket: 400 EGP for foreigners. Friday and Saturday it stays open until 8pm, other days until 5pm.

🚇 minibus to Mahatet El Raml, then 8 min on foot

Featured in: Ministerio de Turismo y Antigüedades (egymonuments.gov.eg, oct 2026)

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The city in three floors

Alexandria National Museum

متحف الإسكندرية القومي · Azarita

A 1926 Italianate mansion tells the city over three floors: pharaonic below, Graeco-Roman and Copto-Islamic above.

Tip: 220 EGP for foreigners and the ticket desk shuts at 4pm even though the museum closes at 5; phone photos are free.

🚇 train to Mahattat Misr, then 13 min on foot

Featured in: Ministerio de Turismo y Antigüedades (egymonuments.gov.eg, oct 2026)

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Stained glass and diamonds

Royal Jewelry Museum

متحف المجوهرات الملكية · Zizinia

Princess Fatma al-Zahra's palace keeps the khedives' gold chessboard and diamond-studded opera glasses.

Tip: 220 EGP for foreigners; do not miss the bathroom stained glass telling European opera scenes, which almost nobody looks at.

🚇 minibus to Bakous, then 10 min on foot

Featured in: Ministerio de Turismo y Antigüedades (egymonuments.gov.eg, oct 2026)

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Reopened in 2026

Mahmoud Said Museum

متحف محمود سعيد · Gianaclis

The house of the painter who invented the modern gaze on Alexandria, reopened in 2026 as a museums centre.

Tip: Seven rooms with over fifty oils, his original studio with brushes, and the painter's eyeglasses; it sits in Gianaclis, far from downtown.

🚇 minibus to Factoria, then 13 min on foot

Featured in: Presidencia de Egipto (presidency.eg, 2026)

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Mediterranean Biennale

Museum of Fine Arts

متحف الفنون الجميلة · Moharram Bey

The Edward Fried villa in Moharram Bey, home of the Mediterranean Biennale and the city art collection.

Tip: It answers to the Culture Ministry, not Antiquities: hours are irregular and it closes for installs, so call ahead.

🚇 train to Mahattat Misr, then 8 min on foot

Featured in: Ministerio de Cultura de Egipto

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Literary Alexandria

Cavafy Museum

متحف كڤافيس · Raml Station

The Rue Lepsius flat where Constantine Cavafy wrote "Ithaka", restored exactly as he left it.

Tip: Restored by the Onassis Foundation and reopened in 2024; Tuesday to Sunday 10am-5pm, second floor and no lift.

🚇 minibus to Saad Zaghloul, then 5 min on foot

Featured in: Onassis Foundation · Hellenic Foundation for Culture

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Rescued floors

Mosaic Museum

متحف الموزاييك · Chatby

A small pavilion near Chatby gathering Hellenistic floors rescued from the city's building sites.

Tip: It is the stop almost nobody makes between the National Museum and the library: ten minutes and no queue at all.

🚇 train to Mahattat Misr, then a taxi (1.6 km)

Featured in: Ministerio de Turismo y Antigüedades

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Cases from another era

Natural History Museum

متحف التاريخ الطبيعي · Nouzha

Inside Nouzha zoo, old cases with desert, Nile and Egyptian Mediterranean wildlife.

Tip: You enter through the zoo, so pair it with the Antoniadis gardens: set aside a whole morning for Nouzha.

🚇 train to Sidi Gaber, then a taxi (1.5 km)

Featured in: Municipalidad de Alejandría

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The Mediterranean on show

Alexandria Aquarium

المعهد القومي لعلوم البحار · Bahary

At the foot of Qaitbay, the Marine Sciences Institute aquarium shows Mediterranean and Red Sea wildlife.

Tip: It is small and dated: worth it as a cheap add-on to Qaitbay rather than a visit of its own, and it works best with kids.

🚇 minibus or taxi from Saad Zaghloul (1.9 km)

Featured in: Instituto Nacional de Ciencias del Mar

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The heart of Bahary

Abu al-Abbas al-Mursi Mosque

جامع المرسى أبو العباس · Anfushi

Cream domes and four lesser cupolas over the tomb of the Andalusian Sufi the city took as its patron.

Tip: Entry is free; avoid Friday midday, take your shoes off at the door, and women need a headscarf and long sleeves.

🚇 minibus or taxi from Saad Zaghloul (1.7 km)

Featured in: Ministerio de Awqaf

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The mosque square

Al-Busiri Mosque

جامع البوصيرى · Anfushi

Abu al-Abbas's neighbour honours the poet of the Burda and closes the city's most photogenic mosque square.

Tip: The best light for the ensemble comes an hour before sunset, from the seaward pavement.

🚇 minibus or taxi from Saad Zaghloul (1.6 km)

Featured in: Ministerio de Awqaf

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The third of the trio

Sidi Yaqut al-Arshi Mosque

جامع سيدى ياقوت العرشى · Anfushi

The third of Anfushi's Sufi trio, with the tomb of al-Mursi's Yemeni disciple and far fewer visitors.

Tip: Enter through the side courtyard: from there you see the three domes lined up, which the square does not show.

🚇 minibus or taxi from Saad Zaghloul (1.8 km)

Featured in: Ministerio de Awqaf

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The Corniche minaret

Al-Qa'id Ibrahim Mosque

جامع القائد ابراهيم · Raml Station

Mazarita's tall white minaret, by Mario Rossi, presiding over the busiest square on the Corniche.

Tip: The square in front is a historic protest spot: if you see a gathering, walk on and come back another day.

🚇 minibus to Mahatet El Raml, then 5 min on foot

Featured in: Ministerio de Awqaf

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The tomb that isn't

Nabi Daniel Mosque

مسجد النبي دانيال · Kom el-Dikka

Legend puts Alexander the Great's tomb under its crypt; what is actually down there are two Ottoman sarcophagi.

Tip: Nabi Daniel street is the second-hand booksellers' street: leave the mosque and walk north past the stalls.

🚇 train to Mahattat Misr, then 5 min on foot

Featured in: Ministerio de Awqaf

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The gateway to the souk

Al-Attarine Mosque

مسجد العطارين · Attarine

Built over a church of Saint Athanasius, it is the natural starting point for the antique-dealers' maze.

Tip: Use the mosque as your landmark: the antique lanes start right west of its door.

🚇 minibus to Saad Zaghloul, then 8 min on foot

Featured in: Ministerio de Awqaf

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Cosmopolitan memory

Eliyahu Hanavi Synagogue

كنيس إلياهو هانبي · Raml Station

Italian marble columns and pews for 700: the restored synagogue that remembers Alexandria's Jewish community.

Tip: It is not a walk-in: you must request permission in advance and show your passport, and do not photograph the gate from the street.

🚇 minibus to Saad Zaghloul, then 3 min on foot

Featured in: Ministerio de Turismo y Antigüedades · reseñas de visitantes

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Saint Mark, here

Saint Mark's Coptic Cathedral

الكاتدرائية المرقسية · Mansheya

The historic seat of the Coptic patriarchate, where tradition places the preaching of Mark the Evangelist.

Tip: Sunday mornings there is sung Coptic liturgy: slip in by the side door and stay at the back.

🚇 minibus to Saad Zaghloul, then 3 min on foot

Featured in: Patriarcado Copto Ortodoxo

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Byzantium in Alexandria

Greek Cathedral of the Evangelismos

كاتدرائية الإيفانجيليسموس · Attarine

Seat of the Greek Orthodox Patriarchate of Alexandria, the "second" see of the ancient pentarchy.

Tip: It sits beside the Greek Club and the coffee roasters: do all three in a half-hour walk.

🚇 minibus to Saad Zaghloul, then 8 min on foot

Featured in: Patriarcado Griego Ortodoxo de Alejandría

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Cotton-era Alexandria

Saint Mark Anglican Cathedral

كاتدرائية مار مرقس الأنجليكانية · Mansheya

An 1854 neo-Gothic church on Mansheya square, built for the British cotton merchants.

Tip: The caretaker usually opens if you knock on the side door on a weekday morning; a small tip is expected.

🚇 minibus to Saad Zaghloul, then 7 min on foot

Featured in: Diócesis Anglicana de Egipto

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Paint pretending to be marble

Tombs of Anfushi

مقابر الأنفوشي · Ras el-Tin

Ptolemaic rock tombs painted to imitate marble and alabaster, cut into the Ras el-Tin spit.

Tip: A small, nearly empty site: if the gate is shut, the guard is usually in the booth opposite and opens right away.

🚇 minibus or taxi from Saad Zaghloul (2.4 km)

Featured in: Ministerio de Turismo y Antigüedades

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The founding cemetery

Chatby Necropolis

جبانة الشاطبي · Chatby

The city's oldest cemetery, from 332 BC, contemporary with Alexandria's foundation.

Tip: In June 2026 the main hall flooded when a pump failed: it has been drained and two new pumps installed, but check that it is open.

🚇 minibus or taxi from Mahatet El Raml (1.9 km)

Featured in: Youm7 / Área de Antigüedades de Alejandría (jun 2026)

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Hidden Hellenism

Mustafa Kamel Necropolis

جبانة مصطفى كامل · Mustafa Kamel

Four Hellenistic tombs with colonnaded courtyards and horseman frescoes, hidden among Rushdy's apartment blocks.

Tip: It barely appears on tours: use the side street, carry small cash, and ask the guard to turn the lights on.

🚇 minibus or taxi from moqaf Sidi Gaber (1.4 km)

Featured in: Ministerio de Turismo y Antigüedades

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Free viewpoint

Kom al-Nadura

كوم الناضورة · Al Labban

The hill of the old Ottoman observatory, the best free viewpoint over the western harbour and the old town.

Tip: Climb at sunset: you see the fishing fleet coming back into the western harbour, and there is no gate or ticket.

🚇 minibus or taxi from Saad Zaghloul (1.3 km)

Featured in: Ministerio de Turismo y Antigüedades

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What is left of the walls

Ancient Town Wall of Alexandria

سور الإسكندرية القديم · Chatby

The Arab-medieval stretch surviving between Chatby and Shallalat, with square towers inside the park.

Tip: You can walk the whole walled circuit inside the Shallalat Gardens: it is free and it is downtown's shadiest stroll.

🚇 train to Mahattat Misr, then a taxi (1.2 km)

Featured in: Ministerio de Turismo y Antigüedades

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Downtown's green lung

Shallalat Gardens

حدائق الشلالات · Chatby

Artificial waterfalls, Roman cisterns and the only standing piece of medieval wall, right downtown.

Tip: A token entry fee of a few pounds; by mid-afternoon it fills with families and it is downtown's best shaded bench.

🚇 minibus or taxi from Mahatet El Raml (1.2 km)

Featured in: Municipalidad de Alejandría

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The king's park

Montaza Gardens

حديقة المنتزه · Montaza

A hundred and fifty hectares of palms and pines around King Farouk's palace, with its own beach and sea bridge.

Tip: The Haramlik palace is NOT open inside: you pay only for the garden (about 50 EGP) and the beach is charged separately at the gate below.

🚇 minibus to Al Mandara, then 13 min on foot

Featured in: Administración de Montaza · reportes locales 2026

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Montaza's postcard

Tea Island

جزيرة الشاي · Montaza

The islet with a little wooden bridge inside Montaza, the most photographed corner of the eastern shore.

Tip: It sits inside Montaza's paid grounds; arrive before 10am if you want the bridge shot without people.

🚇 minibus or taxi from Al Mandara (1.6 km)

Featured in: Administración de Montaza

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A carriage going nowhere

Montaza Royal Train

القطار الملكي · Montaza

The royal carriage, parked forever among the park pines, with its wood-panelled saloon.

Tip: It is signposted inside the park but almost nobody looks for it: ten minutes on foot east of the Haramlik.

🚇 minibus or taxi from Al Mandara (1.3 km)

Featured in: Administración de Montaza

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Sea still 25 °C in October

Mamoura Beach

شاطىء المعمورة · Mamoura

The calmest bay on the eastern edge, with painted wooden cabins and water still at 25 °C in October.

Tip: Out of peak season the gate fee drops a lot and the sand empties out: it is October's best swim in the whole city.

🚇 minibus or taxi from Al Mandara (2.1 km)

Featured in: Climates to Travel (temperatura del mar)

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Neighbourhood beach

Mandara Beach

شاطئ المندرة · Mandara

Wide sand and gentle surf on the popular east side, with parasol cafés and roast-corn vendors.

Tip: This is a local family beach: modest swimwear for women, and parasols rent by the day, not the hour.

🚇 minibus to Al Mandara, then 7 min on foot

Featured in: Municipalidad de Alejandría

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The three bays

Sidi Bishr Beach

شاطيء سيدى بشر · Sidi Bishr

Alexandria's busiest beach, split into three bays by stone breakwaters.

Tip: Bay 3, at the eastern end, is the quietest; avoid Friday, the city's day off.

🚇 minibus or taxi from Sidi Bishr - Manshya (1.2 km)

Featured in: Municipalidad de Alejandría

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Miami, Egyptian style

Miami Beach

شاطىء ميامي · Miami

A name imported from Florida and a spirit that is pure Alexandria: cabins, skiffs and freska stalls.

Tip: It is the eastern Corniche's densest street-food stretch: try grilled corn and sweet potato at sunset.

🚇 minibus or taxi from Sidi Bishr - Manshya (1.5 km)

Featured in: Municipalidad de Alejandría

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The Corniche shot

Stanley Bridge

كوبري ستانلي · Stanley

Four neo-Arab towers standing over the sea, the visual icon of the modern Corniche.

Tip: You can walk across it and at night it is fully lit; the best shot is from the eastern pavement, with Stanley bay behind.

🚇 minibus or taxi from Bakous (1.8 km)

Featured in: Municipalidad de Alejandría

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Amphitheatre over the sea

Stanley Beach

شاطيء ستانلي · Stanley

The horseshoe bay under the bridge, with stepped terraces dropping to the water like an amphitheatre.

Tip: Coastal-protection works are moving along the Corniche in stretches: if the sand access is fenced off, view it from the bridge.

🚇 minibus or taxi from Bakous (1.8 km)

Featured in: CairoScene (obras costeras, oct 2026)

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The eastern cove

Glym Beach

شاطيء جليم · Glym

Small, deep and sheltered, with the promenade cafés hanging right over the sand.

Tip: It is the closest beach to San Stefano: pair it with a coffee on the Gleem Bay terrace and walk back along the Corniche.

🚇 minibus or taxi from Bakous (1.1 km)

Featured in: Municipalidad de Alejandría

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The students' beach

Chatby Beach

شاطئ الشاطبي · Chatby

The students' city beach next to the library, with its timber casino on stilts.

Tip: It is free and five minutes on foot from the Bibliotheca: the perfect midday break from the museums.

🚇 minibus or taxi from Mahatet El Raml (1.9 km)

Featured in: Municipalidad de Alejandría

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Blue skiffs

Anfushi Beach

شاطئ الانفوشى · Anfushi

The fishing quarter's beach, with blue skiffs beached on the sand steps from the mosques.

Tip: At dawn the night's catch comes ashore: the best moment of the day to see Anfushi actually working.

🚇 minibus or taxi from Saad Zaghloul (2.2 km)

Featured in: Municipalidad de Alejandría

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French-style garden

Antoniadis Gardens

حديقة انطونيادس · Nouzha

French parterres, marble statues and a 19th-century Greek villa in the Nouzha district.

Tip: It is part of the same complex as the zoo and the Sculpture Garden: one ticket covers all three.

🚇 minibus or taxi from moqaf Sidi Gaber (1.8 km)

Featured in: Municipalidad de Alejandría

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Belle époque with cages

Alexandria Zoo

حديقة حيوان الإسكندرية · Nouzha

The 1907 Nouzha zoo, with belle-époque iron aviaries and deep ficus shade.

Tip: The ticket costs very little and the grounds are huge; travelling with kids, it is Alexandria's best cheap morning.

🚇 train to Sidi Gaber, then a taxi (1.6 km)

Featured in: Municipalidad de Alejandría

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The Ptolemies' cape

Silsila Park

حديقه السلسلة · Chatby

The landscaped headland beside the library, on the ancient Cape Lochias of the Ptolemaic palaces.

Tip: From the cape's tip you see the whole Eastern Harbour curve up to Qaitbay: downtown's best free sunset.

🚇 minibus or taxi from Mahatet El Raml (1.2 km)

Featured in: Municipalidad de Alejandría

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The centre of everything

Saad Zaghloul Square

ميدان سعد زغلول · Raml Station

The city's living room: the nationalist leader's statue facing the sea, ringed by 1900s hotels and patisseries.

Tip: It is Alexandria's ground zero: from here you walk to Trianon, the Cecil, Délices and the minibus terminal.

🚇 minibus to Saad Zaghloul, then 2 min on foot

Featured in: Municipalidad de Alejandría

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The Italian square

Mansheya Square

ميدان المنشية · Mansheya

The old Place des Consuls, with Mohamed Ali's equestrian statue and the Italian façades of the cotton trade.

Tip: Attarine souk and the fabric alley both start here: the best base for a downtown shopping morning.

🚇 minibus to Saad Zaghloul, then 7 min on foot

Featured in: Municipalidad de Alejandría

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The city's hub

Mahatet El Raml

ميدان محطة الرمل · Raml Station

The terminal square where the blue tram used to beat; today it is the minibus hub and an open-air shopping centre.

Tip: The Raml tram was suspended and dismantled in 2026 for the light-rail works: what leaves from here today are minibuses.

🚇 minibus to Mahatet El Raml, then 2 min on foot

Featured in: Ministerio de Transporte · Al-Monitor (feb 2026)

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Italian-style opera house

Sayed Darwish Theatre (Alexandria Opera)

مسرح سيد درويش - أوبرا الإسكندرية · Raml Station

A 1921 Italian-style house with a horseshoe of gilded boxes, named after the father of modern Arab music.

Tip: Concert tickets cost a fraction of European prices: check the bill at the box office on Fouad Street.

🚇 minibus to Saad Zaghloul, then 6 min on foot

Featured in: Ópera de Alejandría

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1940s neon

Rio Cinema

سينما ريو · Kom el-Dikka

A 1940s art déco picture house in the heart of downtown, with its original neon sign still lit above the door.

Tip: Screenings are in Arabic without subtitles, but tickets cost almost nothing and the lobby alone is worth the walk.

🚇 train to Mahattat Misr, then 6 min on foot

Featured in: Asociación de Cines de Egipto

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Young culture

Alexandria Creativity Centre

مركز الاسكندرية للابداع الفني · Attarine

The old Villa Aghion turned cultural lab: independent cinema, young theatre and exhibitions.

Tip: The programme changes weekly and almost everything is free: check the board at the door or the centre's Facebook first.

🚇 minibus to Saad Zaghloul, then 7 min on foot

Featured in: Ministerio de Cultura de Egipto

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Independent scene

ElMadina Arts

مسرح المدينة للفنون · Attarine

An independent theatre in a 1928 building, the engine of Alexandria's contemporary scene.

Tip: They stage dance and experimental theatre most weekends; message them on social media to hold a seat.

🚇 train to Mahattat Misr, then 7 min on foot

Featured in: ElMadina for Performing and Digital Arts

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Neighbourhood film club

Jesuit Cultural Centre

مركز الجزويت الثقافي بالإسكندرية · Cleopatra

A film club, documentary workshops and concerts in a Cleopatra house with a tree-shaded courtyard.

Tip: Host of several editions of Alexandria's film festival; screenings are usually free and subtitled in English.

🚇 train to Sidi Gaber, then 8 min on foot

Featured in: Jesuit Cultural Center Alexandria

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German cultural agenda

Goethe-Institut Alexandria

معهد جوته بالإسكندرية · Azarita

An open library, photography shows and concerts in a villa in the Ptolemies' quarter.

Tip: The reading room with wifi is free to use in office hours: downtown's best refuge when it rains.

🚇 minibus to Mahatet El Raml, then 10 min on foot

Featured in: Goethe-Institut

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Spanish by the sea

Instituto Cervantes

معهد ثربانتس بالإسكندرية · Azarita

The Spanish house of the Egyptian Mediterranean: film seasons, flamenco and a Spanish-language library.

Tip: A good stop for Spanish speakers: the agenda is on their site and almost all events are free.

🚇 train to Mahattat Misr, then 11 min on foot

Featured in: Instituto Cervantes

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Local contemporary art

B'sarya for Arts

بسارية للفنون · Azarita

An independent gallery in a Fouad Street flat representing Alexandria's young generation.

Tip: It is on an upper floor with no big sign: ring the bell, they almost always open, and small works sell cheap.

🚇 train to Mahattat Misr, then 6 min on foot

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Egyptian design

Dusk&Dawn

دسك آند دون · Saba Pasha

A gallery and design shop in Saba Pasha with prints and ceramics by Egyptian makers.

Tip: One of the few places in town to buy small, portable contemporary art; they take cards without fuss.

🚇 minibus to Bakous, then 7 min on foot

Featured in: Dusk&Dawn Alexandria

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Durrell slept here

Cecil Hotel

فندق شتيجنبرجر سيسيل · Mansheya

The 1929 hotel of the "Alexandria Quartet": a cage lift, the Monty bar and a view over Saad Zaghloul square.

Tip: You do not need to stay: walk into the lobby, look at the original cage lift and have a drink in the first-floor bar.

🚇 minibus to Saad Zaghloul, then 2 min on foot

Featured in: Lawrence Durrell, El Cuarteto de Alejandría

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Terrace over the harbour

Windsor Palace

فندق وندسور بالاس · Mansheya

A 1906 Edwardian façade facing the Eastern Harbour, with the seafront's highest terrace bar.

Tip: The top-floor terrace is open to non-guests and is the cheapest lookout over the bay: order tea and linger.

🚇 minibus to Saad Zaghloul, then 2 min on foot

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The last windmill

Mandara Historic Windmill

طاحونة المندرة الاثرية · Mandara

The stone tower of the last Ottoman windmill surviving on the city's eastern shore.

Tip: It stands on a small neighbourhood square, with no sign or ticket desk: a two-minute look from the street on the way to Montaza.

🚇 minibus to Al Mandara, then 3 min on foot

Featured in: Ministerio de Turismo y Antigüedades

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Where to eat in Alexandria: restaurants

The classic with a view

Fish Market

سوق السمك · Anfushi

You pick your fish off the ice, it is weighed in front of you and it goes up to the first-floor terrace facing Qaitbay.

Tip: Ask for bisara and baladi bread while you wait: they come with the meal but nobody offers them unless you do.

🚇 minibus or taxi from Saad Zaghloul (1.4 km)

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No menu, just fish

Kadoura

قدورة · Anfushi

Alexandria's fish institution since 1959: no menu, you pick from the tray and it comes grilled or salt-baked.

Tip: Ask the price per kilo BEFORE they weigh it; salt-baked bori is the dish worth the queue.

🚇 minibus or taxi from Saad Zaghloul (1.1 km)

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Fish facing Qaitbay

Kadoura (Qaitbay)

قدورة - فرع القلعة · Bahary

The branch at the foot of the citadel, with pavement tables and the same ice counter as the original.

Tip: It is the city's best pairing: citadel at midday and lunch here without walking more than five minutes.

🚇 minibus or taxi from Saad Zaghloul (1.9 km)

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Qaitbay's terrace

The Greek Club

النادى البحرى اليونانى · Bahary

A sea terrace in the old Greek nautical club beside Qaitbay: fish, mezze and Egyptian wine.

Tip: One of the few places in town with a wine list; ask for a railing table and arrive before sunset.

🚇 minibus or taxi from Saad Zaghloul (2.0 km)

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Mezze facing the sea

Sidra

سيدرا · Bahary

Lebanese cooking with a citadel view: sojok, batata harra and mezze to share over the water.

Tip: The upper terrace has the best Qaitbay view in the area and charges nothing extra to sit there.

🚇 minibus or taxi from Saad Zaghloul (1.9 km)

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The Alexandrian breakfast

Mohamed Ahmed

أحمد محمد فول · Raml Station

The temple of Alexandrian ful and falafel since 1957: ten bean versions and parsley-green taameya.

Tip: Eat early and cheap: order ful bil-zeit, taameya and baba ghanoug, and pay cash on the way out.

🚇 minibus to Mahatet El Raml, then 2 min on foot

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Family fish house

Sea Gull

سي جال · Glym

A fish classic on Glym bay, with a tank at the door and halls built for big families.

Tip: The thing to order is sayadeya, rice cooked in fish stock with caramelised onion; ask for it separately.

🚇 minibus or taxi from Bakous (1.2 km)

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Grill until late

Balbaa Village

قرية بلبع للمشويات · Sidi Bishr

A huge grill house in Sidi Bishr where Alexandrians go for kebab, kofta and hawawshi until dawn.

Tip: It runs past midnight and Fridays mean a long wait: put your name down and wait on the pavement.

🚇 minibus to Sidi Bishr - Manshya, then 4 min on foot

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Neighbourhood prices

Hosny

حسني · Mandara

An eastern fishmonger-restaurant: choose at the counter, they fry or grill it and serve it with tahina and lemon.

Tip: Far cheaper than the downtown classics and just as good: this is where the neighbourhood eats, not the tourist.

🚇 minibus to Al Mandara, then 4 min on foot

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Italy still standing

Chez Gaby au Ritrovo

شيه غابي أو ريتروفو · Raml Station

A 1979 trattoria with chequered cloths and oven pizza: what survives of Italian Alexandria.

Tip: One of very few downtown places serving alcohol; it fills at night and they do not take phone bookings.

🚇 minibus to Mahatet El Raml, then 6 min on foot

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Fiteer at any hour

Taverna

تاڤرنا · Raml Station

Sweet and savoury fiteer, shawarma and Egyptian pizza on the busiest corner of Saad Zaghloul square.

Tip: Order fiteer meshaltet with honey and rumi cheese: the national breakfast-dessert, made in front of you here.

🚇 minibus to Mahatet El Raml, then 2 min on foot

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The writers' table

Elite

إيليت · Raml Station

Christina Constantinou's café-restaurant, with green picture windows and Toulouse-Lautrec posters since 1950.

Tip: Durrell and Tsirkas used to sit here; ask for a table by the green window onto Safiya Zaghloul street.

🚇 minibus to Mahatet El Raml, then 5 min on foot

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Fried, no frills

Hussein & Ali Hussein

حسين وعلي حسين · Azarita

Alexandrian fried fish on Hippocrates street, no tablecloth and the best price per kilo downtown.

Tip: It feeds workers and university students: packed at 2pm, so go before or after.

🚇 minibus to Mahatet El Raml, then 11 min on foot

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Kebda eskandarani

Kebda Awlad El Falah

كبدة أولاد الفلاح · Raml Station

The Alexandrian liver sandwich in its canonical version: hot pepper, garlic, lemon and crisp bread.

Tip: Ask for it "hara" if you handle heat and "sada" if not; you eat it standing and it costs less than a coffee.

🚇 minibus to Mahatet El Raml, then 5 min on foot

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Midnight queue

El Falah Liver

كبده الفلاح · Raml Station

A kebda and sogo' stall with a permanent queue at the end of Qaysar street, open past midnight.

Tip: The local trick is half kebda, half sogo' in one bread: it is called mix and it is not on the board.

🚇 minibus to Mahatet El Raml, then 5 min on foot

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The national dish

Koshary 3al Sokhn

كشرى ع السخن · Raml Station

Freshly made koshary, with the spicy tomato sauce served on the side and real fried onion.

Tip: Ask for the garlic vinegar (da'a) on the side and add it yourself: locals say koshary is unfinished without it.

🚇 minibus to Mahatet El Raml, then 4 min on foot

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Molokheya and pigeon

Fayrouz

فيروز · Raml Station

Neighbourhood Arab cooking on Safiya Zaghloul street: molokheya, stuffed pigeon and grilled chicken.

Tip: Hamam mahshi (pigeon stuffed with freekeh) is the Egyptian feast dish: order a day ahead for the best one.

🚇 minibus to Mahatet El Raml, then 4 min on foot

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Pocket bistro

L'Apéro

لابيرو · Attarine

A small French bistro on Nabi Daniel street, with a daily blackboard and one of downtown's rare wine lists.

Tip: Few tables and evenings only: message them on Instagram the same day to be sure of a seat.

🚇 train to Mahattat Misr, then 7 min on foot

Featured in: Scene Eats

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Properly Neapolitan

il Punto

إل بونتو · Raml Station

Wood-fired Neapolitan pizza downtown, with long-fermented dough and fiordilatte mozzarella.

Tip: The margherita costs a fraction of European prices; evenings run a wait, so arrive before 8pm.

🚇 minibus to Saad Zaghloul, then 7 min on foot

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Pasta in Rushdy

Rubino's

روبينوز · Rushdy

A Rushdy Italian with fresh pasta and an open oven, the neighbourhood favourite for two decades.

Tip: Two blocks from the Rushdy Corniche: pair it with the Stanley walk and stroll back.

🚇 minibus or taxi from moqaf Sidi Gaber (1.1 km)

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Brunch by the sea

Crave

كريڤ · Chatby

International brunch facing Chatby beach, the favourite of students from the nearby university.

Tip: It opens early and the wifi holds: the best stop to work a while between the library and the beach.

🚇 minibus or taxi from Mahatet El Raml (1.8 km)

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Asian break

Oak Bay

أوك باي · Azarita

Sushi and Asian cooking in Azarita, the alternative after three straight days of fried fish.

Tip: The fish is same-day from the Anfushi market: order the bori nigiri, which you will not find elsewhere.

🚇 train to Mahattat Misr, then 7 min on foot

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Prawns from the market

Jamboojo

چامبوچو · Anfushi

An Anfushi fishmonger-grill where the neighbourhood buys prawn and squid and has it cooked on the spot.

Tip: Buy the fish at the counter, pay the cooking fee separately and sit at the plastic tables outside.

🚇 minibus or taxi from Saad Zaghloul (2.0 km)

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By weight, no airs

Al Bunduq Fish

أسماك آل بندق · Camp Chezar

Fish by weight in Camp Chezar, with a salt oven in full view and long neighbourhood tables.

Tip: Five minutes on foot from the Bibliotheca and half the price of the harbour classics: the area's best value.

🚇 train to Sidi Gaber, then a taxi (1.8 km)

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Greek-style, not fried

Negro Greek Sea Food

نيجرو · Miami

Greek-style fish in Sidi Bishr: griddled with oregano, lemon and olive oil instead of deep-fried.

Tip: One of the few around that griddles the fish: order it that way with tomato-and-onion salad.

🚇 minibus or taxi from Sidi Bishr - Manshya (1.1 km)

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The eastern fish house

Samakti

سمكتي · Mandara

A modern fish house in Mandara, with an ice display, salt oven and quick family service.

Tip: The natural stop if you spend the day in Montaza: ten minutes by minibus along Abu Qir street.

🚇 minibus to Al Mandara, then 12 min on foot

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Late-night masmat

Felfel Masmat

مسمط فلفل · Siouf

A neighbourhood masmat: offal, sogo' and liver on the griddle over baladi bread, served until dawn.

Tip: This is worker and night-out food, not tourist food: order small the first time and watch how the next table eats it.

🚇 minibus to Al Mahata, then 2 min on foot

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Eastern heat

Al Dib Koshary

كشري الديب · Siouf

Siouf koshary with the hottest sauce in the east and portions that feed two.

Tip: The small portion is plenty; if you do not want heat, say "bidun shatta" before they serve you.

🚇 minibus to Al Mahata, then 2 min on foot

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Open before dawn

Masmat El Farouk

مسمط الفاروق · Karmouz

The historic Karmouz masmat, serving fatta and lamb soup since before dawn.

Tip: It opens at dawn for the market crowd: at 6am it is the most local breakfast you will eat in Egypt.

🚇 minibus to Bab al Melouk, then 4 min on foot

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Egyptian layered pie

Fiteer El Omda

فطير العمدة · Bab Sharq

Hand-stretched baladi fiteer baked in minutes, filled sweet with honey or savoury with pastirma.

Tip: Watch them spin the dough in the air before you order: the show is part of the dish and it is free.

🚇 train to Mahattat Misr, then a taxi (1.2 km)

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Dairy breakfast

Swissra

ألبان سويسرا · Camp Chezar

A Camp Chezar dairy-café since 1930: yoghurt, white cheese, honey and the city's best dairy breakfast.

Tip: Order "areesh" cheese with black honey and baladi bread: the Alexandrian breakfast almost no tourist tries.

🚇 train to Sidi Gaber, then a taxi (2.0 km)

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Sunset over Glym

Gleem Bay

جليم باي · Glym

A terrace complex hanging over Glym bay, with several kitchens and the east's best sunset.

Tip: Book the lower terrace, right by the water: the upper one has the same menu and half the view.

🚇 minibus or taxi from Bakous (1.2 km)

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Greece in Smouha

Sea Folia

سي فوليا · Smouha

Mediterranean cooking with a Greek accent in Smouha, one of the city's soundest modern tables.

Tip: It is far from the sea yet cooks fish better than many on the Corniche: order the charcoal octopus.

🚇 train to Sidi Gaber, then 5 min on foot

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MICHELIN Key

Byblos (Four Seasons)

بيبلوس - فور سيزونز · San Stefano

The Lebanese table of Alexandria's only MICHELIN Key hotel, open to non-guests as well.

Tip: The Four Seasons San Stefano holds one MICHELIN Key; the restaurant takes outside bookings and asks for a card.

🚇 minibus or taxi from Factoria (1.2 km)

Featured in: MICHELIN Keys (selección 2025-2026) · Four Seasons

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Specialty coffee in Alexandria

The corner ahwa

Ahwa Farouk

قهوة فاروق · Anfushi

An Anfushi ahwa baladi: straw chairs on the pavement, Turkish coffee in a kanaka and apple shisha.

Tip: Ask for "ahwa mazbout" if you want it semi-sweet; just saying "ahwa" gets you "ziyada", almost caramel.

🚇 minibus or taxi from Saad Zaghloul (1.4 km)

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Tea with a harbour view

Ahwa El Semman

قهوة السمان · Anfushi

A fishermen's café on the Anfushi Corniche, its tables facing the blue skiffs head-on.

Tip: Order cold karkadé, the hibiscus infusion: cheaper than coffee and what the neighbourhood drinks at midday.

🚇 minibus or taxi from Saad Zaghloul (1.3 km)

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Backgammon and tea

The Greek Coffeeshop

القهوة اليونانية · Mansheya

Downtown's "Greek coffeeshop": mint tea, Turkish coffee and backgammon boards from first thing.

Tip: Nobody will rush you: two hours over a mint tea costs the price of a bottle of water.

🚇 minibus to Saad Zaghloul, then 2 min on foot

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Belle époque in a cup

Trianon

تريانون · Raml Station

A 1905 patisserie-café with painted ceilings and a mille-feuille display, facing Saad Zaghloul square.

Tip: Cavafy ate here; sit in the inner room rather than outside to see the ceiling frescoes.

🚇 minibus to Mahatet El Raml, then 2 min on foot

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Same family since 1922

Délices

ديليز · Raml Station

The same Greek family since 1922: it baked King Farouk's coronation cake and is still on Saad Zaghloul street.

Tip: Open 8am to 1am every day; order the pistachio mille-feuille and the kunafa cheesecake.

🚇 minibus to Saad Zaghloul, then 2 min on foot

Featured in: delices1922.com

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A hall with a band

Athineos

أتينيوس · Raml Station

A 1903 Greek hall with columns, mirrors and a band: where Cavafy and Ahmed Shawqi crossed paths.

Tip: Check the menu before taking a pavement table: the Corniche terrace charges noticeably more than inside.

🚇 minibus to Mahatet El Raml, then 2 min on foot

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A name brought back

Baudrot

بودرو · Mansheya

The name of the famous 1909 tearoom revived downtown, with an inner garden and French pastry.

Tip: Mind the detail: the original Baudrot closed in 1962 and today's is a recent revival under the same name.

🚇 minibus to Saad Zaghloul, then 4 min on foot

Featured in: Baudrot Cafe (página oficial) · archivo de prensa alejandrina

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A 1908 roastery

Sofianopoulo Coffee Store

سوفيانوبولو · Mansheya

A 1908 Greek roaster: beans on show, antique grinders and a counter where you drink standing.

Tip: Buy half a kilo ground as a souvenir: they vacuum-pack it, it weighs nothing and it is the city's best cheap gift.

🚇 minibus to Saad Zaghloul, then 5 min on foot

Featured in: ETL Travel · prensa alejandrina

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Brazil in Alexandria

Brazilian Coffee Stores

محمصة البرازيل · Mansheya

Opened in 1929 by returnees from Brazil, its art déco counter and its smell both intact.

Tip: There are no tables: you order at the counter, drink standing and leave; the Saad Zaghloul branch is the original.

🚇 minibus to Saad Zaghloul, then 2 min on foot

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Same coffee, no queue

Brazilian Coffee (Azarita)

محمصة البرازيل - الأزاريطة · Azarita

The Azarita branch of the 1929 roaster, same Turkish coffee and a shorter queue than the main house.

Tip: It is on the way to the Bibliotheca: the perfect ten-minute stop before the museums.

🚇 minibus to Mahatet El Raml, then 8 min on foot

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Square and shisha

Café de la Paix

كافيه دو لا بيه · Raml Station

A French name with an Alexandrian soul: Turkish coffee, shisha and the noise of Qa'id Ibrahim square at the door.

Tip: Take a pavement table at dusk: from here you watch Mario Rossi's minaret light up at nightfall.

🚇 minibus to Mahatet El Raml, then 2 min on foot

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People-watching post

Buffet Misr

بوفيه مصر · Raml Station

A popular Raml Station classic: tea in a glass, sandwiches and the whole city parading past.

Tip: Downtown's best observation post: order tea and watch the minibus terminal churn.

🚇 minibus to Mahatet El Raml, then 2 min on foot

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Shisha facing the sea

Omar El Khayyam

عمر الخيام · Raml Station

A classic Corniche ahwa with wooden chairs and shisha, right behind Qa'id Ibrahim square.

Tip: Shisha is charged per head and coal refills are free: say "fahm gedid" when it dies down.

🚇 minibus to Mahatet El Raml, then 2 min on foot

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Art nouveau at the bar

Cap d'Or

كاب دور · Mansheya

A 1900 art nouveau bar with a curved wooden counter and mirrors, one of the few historic bars still open.

Tip: It pours local Stella beer with fish tapas; the room is traditional and male, so go with company if you are a woman.

🚇 minibus to Saad Zaghloul, then 6 min on foot

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Petits fours as ever

Andréa

أندريه · Raml Station

A Fouad Street patisserie-café with a petits-fours display and lifelong regulars.

Tip: Buy by weight to take away: the petits-fours trays cost far less than the same pastry at the table.

🚇 minibus to Mahatet El Raml, then 6 min on foot

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Tray sweets

Manna Pastry

حلواني مانا · Azarita

Basbousa, kunafa and harissa straight from the oven in one of Azarita's busiest sweet shops.

Tip: You buy by the kilo and eat with your fingers, standing: ask for 250 g mixed and try the seasonal mango kunafa.

🚇 train to Mahattat Misr, then 7 min on foot

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Baklava by weight

Amir Pastry

حلواني أمير · Attarine

A Mansheya sweet shop with trays of basbousa, baklava and zalabya sold by weight from early on.

Tip: It is the souk's sweet stop: leave Attarine, cross the square and buy half a kilo for the rest of the day.

🚇 minibus to Saad Zaghloul, then 8 min on foot

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Neighbourhood gelato

Azza Ice Cream

آيس كريم عزة · Mansheya

A downtown ice-cream parlour with the usual Egyptian flavours: mango, date, pistachio and buffalo cream.

Tip: Order mango while the season's fruit lasts: October is the last good month of the year.

🚇 minibus to Saad Zaghloul, then 2 min on foot

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Stretched ice cream

Makram Ice Cream

جيلاتي مكرم · Ras el-Tin

A historic Ras el-Tin parlour, with Ottoman-style stretched ice cream and Friday neighbourhood queues.

Tip: Sahlab with pistachio is the local flavour; it sits on the way to the Anfushi tombs, so do both together.

🚇 minibus or taxi from Saad Zaghloul (2.1 km)

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Tea over the water

Chatby Casino

كازينو الشاطبي · Chatby

A timber pavilion on stilts over Chatby beach: tea, shisha and the sea under the floorboards.

Tip: It is not a gambling casino: in Egypt "casino" means a terrace café; people come at sunset for the view.

🚇 minibus or taxi from Mahatet El Raml (1.8 km)

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Alexandrian third wave

Triplo C

تريبلو سي · Sidi Gaber

Third-wave specialty in Sidi Gaber: own roast, V60 and properly pulled espresso.

Tip: The best filter in town, three blocks from Sidi Gaber station: an obvious stop right off the Cairo train.

🚇 minibus to moqaf Sidi Gaber, then 12 min on foot

Featured in: SCA Egypt · escena local de specialty

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Specialty in the old town

Mugs Estate

ماجز استيت · Attarine

Specialty right in the historic centre, with Egyptian and Ethiopian beans and a bar to watch the pour.

Tip: One of the few downtown doing filter and cold brew; good sockets and wifi if you need to work.

🚇 minibus to Saad Zaghloul, then 6 min on foot

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Local specialty chain

Ecuador Coffee

إكوادور كوفي · Azarita

An Alexandrian specialty-coffee chain born in Louran, now with branches across the city.

Tip: The safe bet for decent espresso outside downtown: there is a branch in almost every neighbourhood.

🚇 train to Mahattat Misr, then 10 min on foot

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Long breakfast

Robusta

مقهى روبوستا · Kom el-Dikka

A modern café on Fouad Street with its own gelato counter and breakfast until mid-afternoon.

Tip: They serve breakfast until 4pm: useful if you arrive late from Cairo with nothing eaten on the train.

🚇 train to Mahattat Misr, then 5 min on foot

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A table to work at

Kaffeine

كافيين · Chatby

A student café by the university, with long tables, sockets and neighbourhood prices.

Tip: The best cheap place to work near the Bibliotheca: stable wifi and nobody hurries you.

🚇 minibus or taxi from Mahatet El Raml (1.6 km)

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Thick chocolate

The Chocolate Factory

ذا تشوكليت فاكتوري · Azarita

An Azarita chocolate shop and café, with handmade bonbons and thick hot chocolate for winter.

Tip: The Spanish-style hot chocolate is the best defence against November's first rain front.

🚇 train to Mahattat Misr, then 7 min on foot

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Butter croissant

Croissant d'Alexia

كرواسون داليكسيا · Azarita

A French bakery in Azarita with butter croissants, pain au chocolat and coffee to go.

Tip: They open very early: the ideal quick breakfast before the museums open at 9am.

🚇 minibus to Mahatet El Raml, then 8 min on foot

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Books and music

Ob-La-Di

أوبلادي · Kom el-Dikka

A café-bookshop on Nabi Daniel street, with weekend live music and shelves to browse.

Tip: Small gigs on Thursday and Friday nights; the notice goes up on their feeds the same day.

🚇 train to Mahattat Misr, then 6 min on foot

Featured in: escena cultural alejandrina

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Afternoon in Rushdy

Leila

ليلى · Rushdy

A Rushdy café with Lebanese pastry, a leafy terrace and an unhurried afternoon crowd.

Tip: The natural stop between Stanley and San Stefano on a Corniche walk: one block from the sea.

🚇 minibus or taxi from moqaf Sidi Gaber (1.3 km)

Featured in: Tripadvisor Alejandría

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Benchmark patisserie

La Poire

لابوار · Azarita

A benchmark Egyptian patisserie, with tarts, breads and the area's best chocolate gateau to take away.

Tip: The reliable option for something sweet on the way to the library; there is also a Louran branch.

🚇 minibus or taxi from Mahatet El Raml (1.1 km)

Featured in: La Poire Egypt

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Neighbourhood yard

Dekka

دكة · Ibrahimiyya

An Ibrahimiyya café with a yard, home baking and the neighbourhood feel downtown has almost lost.

Tip: It sits in the quarter where much of the Greek community lived: walk Ibrahimiyya after your coffee.

🚇 train to Sidi Gaber, then a taxi (2.1 km)

Featured in: escena local de specialty

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The founding branch

Ecuador Coffee (Louran)

إكوادور كوفي - لوران · Louran

The chain's original house in Louran, where the specialty scene of the city's east began.

Tip: The best coffee stop for a day on the eastern shore: one block from the Louran Corniche.

🚇 minibus to Factoria, then 10 min on foot

Featured in: Ecuador Coffee (canales oficiales)

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The east's sweet shop

Classic Patisserie

حلواني كلاسيك · Louran

An eastern sweet shop with cases of kunafa, basbousa and gâteaux, the sweet benchmark of Louran and Siouf.

Tip: Buy warm kunafa bil-eshta and eat it right there: cold it is not half of what it is fresh.

🚇 minibus to Factoria, then 10 min on foot

Featured in: costumbre local verificada en terreno

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Ovens on show

Bernice Patisserie

حلواني برنيس · Sidi Bishr

A Sidi Bishr bakery-patisserie with open ovens and trays replenished all afternoon.

Tip: The logical sweet stop after Sidi Bishr beach: five minutes on foot from the bay.

🚇 minibus to Sidi Bishr - Manshya, then 11 min on foot

Featured in: costumbre local verificada en terreno

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Harissa only

Harissa Ahmed Hassanein

هريسة أحمد حسنين · Sidi Bishr

Specialists in harissa, the semolina-and-coconut cake soaked in syrup that Alexandria eats with tea.

Tip: Do not mix it up: here harissa is a semolina sweet, not the Maghrebi chilli paste; it is sold by the tray.

🚇 minibus or taxi from Factoria (1.1 km)

Featured in: costumbre local verificada en terreno

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Shopping in Alexandria: where to shop

Antiques, not spices

Attarine Souk

شارع سوق العطارين · Attarine

The old spice market is now Egypt's antiques-and-furniture maze: chandeliers, mirrors and art déco.

Tip: Forget the brochure about spices: Attarine today is furniture and antiques, and mid-morning is the best time.

🚇 train to Mahattat Misr, then 9 min on foot

Featured in: prensa alejandrina · verificación en terreno

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Interwar in the window

Abu Moussa Antiques

أبو موسى للأنتيكات · Azarita

An antiques shop with lamps, clocks and objects from the cosmopolitan interwar Alexandria.

Tip: Haggling is expected, calmly and politely: start around 60 % of the asking price and close near 75 %.

🚇 train to Mahattat Misr, then 11 min on foot

Featured in: verificación en terreno

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Silver and porcelain

Azmi Antiques

عزمي للأنتيكات · Azarita

An Azarita dealer specialising in silver, European porcelain and glassware from the Greek houses.

Tip: Ask for a receipt if you buy anything over a hundred years old: without papers, Egyptian customs can hold it.

🚇 train to Mahattat Misr, then 6 min on foot

Featured in: verificación en terreno

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Dawn auction

Anfushi Fish Market

حلقة السمك · Anfushi

The western harbour's fish auction: ice crates, shouting and the city's best free show.

Tip: Come between 6 and 8am; after that it empties out. Closed shoes, the floor is always wet.

🚇 minibus or taxi from Saad Zaghloul (2.1 km)

Featured in: verificación en terreno

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Fabric and tailors

French Market

السوق الفرنسي · Mansheya

A covered arcade in Mansheya, with fabric, haberdashery and clothes cut to measure in the back workshops.

Tip: Egyptian cotton is sold cut to measure: bring your measurements written down and a shirt takes 48 hours.

🚇 minibus to Saad Zaghloul, then 5 min on foot

Featured in: verificación en terreno

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A real working market

Souk El Saah

سوق الساعة · Karmouz

A popular clothing, fabric and curtain market in Karmouz, where half of Alexandria stocks up.

Tip: It is a neighbourhood market, not a tourist one: small cash, no visible jewellery, bag in front of you.

🚇 minibus to Bab al Melouk, then 5 min on foot

Featured in: verificación en terreno

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The station market

Misr Station Market

سوق محطة مصر · Mahattat Misr

Fruit, vegetables, poultry and fish in the lanes around Alexandria's railway station.

Tip: The best place in town for seasonal dates and guava: October is guava month.

🚇 train to Mahattat Misr, then 6 min on foot

Featured in: verificación en terreno

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Brands by the sea

San Stefano Grand Plaza

مول سان ستيفانو · San Stefano

The seafront mall in San Stefano, with international brands, cinemas and a bay view.

Tip: The only mall in town with a Mediterranean view; its air conditioning is the midday refuge.

🚇 minibus or taxi from Factoria (1.2 km)

Featured in: verificación en terreno

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The big one in the south

City Centre Alexandria

كارفور سيتي سنتر · Carretera del Desierto

The city's largest mall, on the desert road, with a hypermarket and food court.

Tip: It is far from downtown on the desert road: only worth it by taxi or on your way to or from Cairo.

🚇 minibus or taxi from Moharram Bek (2.0 km)

Featured in: verificación en terreno

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Smouha's practical one

Zahran Mall

زهران مول · Smouha

Smouha's mall, the handiest in town when you need something and do not want to cross the whole city.

Tip: It has a pharmacy, exchange and supermarket under one roof: Alexandria's most efficient logistics stop.

🚇 minibus to moqaf Sidi Gaber, then 11 min on foot

Featured in: verificación en terreno

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Books from the Greek houses

Ulisse Bookshop

مكتبة أوليسة · Azarita

A second-hand bookshop by the university, stocked in French, Italian and Greek from Alexandrian libraries.

Tip: Ask about the back room: that is where the old books and city photographs live, not the window.

🚇 minibus or taxi from Mahatet El Raml (1.5 km)

Featured in: verificación en terreno

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Egyptian fiction in English

Alef Bookstore

مكتبة ألف · Rushdy

A modern Rushdy bookshop with an English section, a café inside and good translated Egyptian fiction.

Tip: The best place to buy Cavafy, Durrell or Naguib Mahfouz in English before walking the city.

🚇 minibus to moqaf Sidi Gaber, then 12 min on foot

Featured in: verificación en terreno

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Egyptian rugs

Oriental Weavers

النساجون الشرقيون · Sidi Bishr

Egypt's big carpet maker, with pharaonic and Coptic-pattern rugs that ship abroad.

Tip: Small rugs fit in a suitcase; ask about international shipping if you buy a large one.

🚇 minibus to Sidi Bishr - Manshya, then 12 min on foot

Featured in: Oriental Weavers

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Egyptian cotton

Nour El Din Tex

نور الدين تكس · Anfushi

Fabric and carpets on Gaish Road, in the commercial heart of the Anfushi quarter.

Tip: Real Egyptian cotton is sold cut to measure, not in sealed packs: ask for the origin label.

🚇 minibus or taxi from Saad Zaghloul (1.2 km)

Featured in: verificación en terreno

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