📍 Cuenca tourist map

143 places with verified coordinates · UNESCO, CIDAP and the markets of Cuenca · no Eater coverage

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Things to do in Cuenca: the full list behind the map

This interactive map of Cuenca (Ecuador) brings together 143 hand-picked places: 54 attractions, 35 restaurants, 28 cafés and 26 shops. It also includes 5 walking routes with their stops in order. For every place you get what it is, a practical tip and how to get there by public transport. It is free, works on your phone and needs no sign-up.

· Curated by the HOLASIM team · How we make the maps

Walking routes in Cuenca

Tap a route to see it drawn on the map, stop by stop.

The historic centre and the two cathedrals

7 stops · 2 h · on foot · 7 stops

  1. Parque Calderón
  2. New Cathedral
  3. Old Cathedral
  4. El Carmen de la Asunción
  5. San Francisco
  6. Santo Domingo
  7. San Sebastián
Show route on map

El Barranco and the Tomebamba end to end

7 stops · 2 h 30 · on foot · 7 stops

  1. Cruz del Vado
  2. Plaza del Otorongo
  3. University Steps
  4. Puente Roto
  5. Todos Santos
  6. Todos Santos Bridge
  7. Parque de la Madre
Show route on map

Pumapungo and the Calle Larga museum axis

6 stops · 3 h · on foot · 6 stops

  1. Pumapungo Museum
  2. Archaeological Park
  3. Aviary
  4. Aboriginal Cultures
  5. Remigio Crespo Toral
  6. CIDAP
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Markets and Cuencan food

6 stops · 2 h 30 · on foot and tram · 6 stops

  1. Mercado 10 de Agosto
  2. Mercado 9 de Octubre
  3. Mercado 3 de Noviembre
  4. Todos Santos bakeries
  5. Guajibamba
  6. Feria Libre El Arenal
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Turi, the lookouts and the Baños hot springs

6 stops · half a day · bus and taxi · 6 stops

  1. Loma de Cullca
  2. Turi Lookout
  3. Eduardo Vega Gallery
  4. Baños Church
  5. Piedra de Agua
  6. Durán Baths
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Things to do in Cuenca: top attractions

Main square

Parque Calderón

Parque Abdón Calderón · Historic Centre

Cuenca's heart: huge araucaria trees, marble benches and the two cathedrals facing each other.

Tip: Sit on the New Cathedral side around 6pm: the domes light up and the square fills with people.

🚇 Tram · Luis Cordero stop · 4 min walk

Featured in: UNESCO 1999 · Centro Histórico

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Cathedral

Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception

Catedral de la Inmaculada Concepción · Historic Centre

The three sky-blue tiled domes on every Cuenca postcard, with Carrara marble inside.

Tip: The climb is NOT into the domes: it's the Terraza Santa Ana, 165 steps, from the side street. Fixed hourly slots Monday to Saturday, closed Sunday.

🚇 Tram · Santo Domingo stop · 3 min walk

Featured in: UNESCO 1999 · Arquidiócesis de Cuenca

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Museum · Cathedral

Old Cathedral (El Sagrario)

El Sagrario · Historic Centre

The 1557 cathedral is now a religious-art museum: a 1735 pipe organ, Sangurima's pulpit and a 1573 mural.

Tip: Careful: open Monday to Friday only, morning and afternoon with a midday break. You'll find it shut at the weekend.

🚇 Tram · Luis Cordero stop · 3 min walk

Featured in: UNESCO 1999 · Arquidiócesis de Cuenca

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Church · Flowers

El Carmen de la Asunción

Carmen church and monastery · Historic Centre

An 18th-century stone portal and, on the little square outside, the most photographed flower market in Ecuador.

Tip: The flower market belongs to the sellers, it isn't a set: ask before photographing and buy a bunch, they cost very little.

🚇 Tram · Santo Domingo stop · 4 min walk

Featured in: UNESCO 1999 · Centro Histórico

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Church · Square

San Francisco Church

San Francisco · Historic Centre

A baroque altarpiece drowned in gold leaf and, outside, the square where Cuenca's craft fair sets up.

Tip: Plaza de San Francisco hosts the November festival fairs: most of the stalls go up right here.

🚇 Tram · Santo Domingo stop · 5 min walk

Featured in: UNESCO 1999 · Centro Histórico

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Basilica

Santo Domingo Basilica

Santísimo Rosario · Historic Centre

Twin exposed-brick towers visible from half the city and a surprisingly luminous interior.

Tip: The tram stop is named after it, which makes it the easiest meeting point in town.

🚇 Tram · Santo Domingo stop · right outside

Featured in: UNESCO 1999 · Centro Histórico

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Church

San Sebastián Church

San Sebastián Church · San Sebastián

It marks the western edge of the colonial centre, with a single lopsided tower unlike any other.

Tip: The square outside is the other end of the historic grid: walking from here to Todos Santos crosses the whole old town.

🚇 Tram · Coronel Tálbot stop · 2 min walk

Featured in: UNESCO 1999 · Centro Histórico

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Square

San Sebastián Park

Plaza de San Sebastián · San Sebastián

A quiet leafy square with the Modern Art Museum on one corner: downtown without the downtown noise.

Tip: This is where locals sit and read. For a crowd-free shot of the old town, come mid-morning.

🚇 Tram · Coronel Tálbot stop · 3 min walk

Featured in: UNESCO 1999 · Centro Histórico

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Modern art

Municipal Museum of Modern Art

MMDAM · San Sebastián

A 19th-century temperance house turned museum: whitewashed courtyards, arches and contemporary art.

Tip: Admission is free and the courtyards are worth it even if the current show isn't your thing.

🚇 Tram · Coronel Tálbot stop · 4 min walk

Featured in: UNESCO 1999 · Centro Histórico

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Lookout · River

Puente Roto (Broken Bridge)

Puente Roto · El Barranco

What a Tomebamba flood left of the bridge in 1950: now a lookout and open-air gallery.

Tip: On Sundays painters hang their work along the wall. It's the best single spot to grasp El Barranco.

🚇 Tram · Tomás Ordóñez stop · 11 min walk

Featured in: UNESCO 1999 · El Barranco

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Square · Nightlife

Plaza del Otorongo

El Otorongo · El Barranco

A sunken plaza above the river, bars under the arches and steps down to the Tomebamba bank.

Tip: By day it's a quiet way down to the river; by night it's one of the few open-air scenes downtown.

🚇 Tram · Coronel Tálbot stop · 6 min walk

Featured in: UNESCO 1999 · El Barranco

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Lookout

Cruz del Vado

Cruz del Vado · El Vado

The stone cross above El Vado's bluff, the artisan quarter with the best river sunset in town.

Tip: El Vado is a quarter of tinsmiths, hatters and guitar makers: peek into the open doorways as you walk down.

🚇 Tram · Coronel Tálbot stop · 6 min walk

Featured in: UNESCO 1999 · El Vado

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Archaeology · Church

Todos Santos Church

Todos Santos · El Barranco

The one place in Cuenca where all three layers show at once: Cañari wall, Inca stonework, colonial arch.

Tip: The block below holds Todos Santos' wood-fired bakeries: follow the smell, not the signs.

🚇 Tram · Luis Cordero stop · 10 min walk

Featured in: UNESCO 1999 · El Barranco

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Bridge · River

Todos Santos Bridge

Todos Santos Bridge · El Barranco

A stone crossing over the Tomebamba with the best head-on view of the hanging houses on Calle Larga.

Tip: Stop here for the classic El Barranco shot; from Puente Roto you get the opposite side.

🚇 Tram · Tomás Ordóñez stop · 13 min walk

Featured in: UNESCO 1999 · El Barranco

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Stairway

University Steps

La Escalinata · El Barranco

The monumental stair linking Calle Larga to the Tomebamba bank, with murals on the landings.

Tip: It's a lot of steps at 2,560 m above sea level: take it slowly on day one, this is no place to rush.

🚇 Tram · Santo Domingo stop · 7 min walk

Featured in: UNESCO 1999 · El Barranco

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Park

Parque de la Madre

Parque de La Madre · El Ejido

The park where all Cuenca runs and trains, with a track, playgrounds and the planetarium at one end.

Tip: Cross the river on the footbridge and you're on Calle Larga in five minutes: the shortcut locals use.

🚇 Tram · Luis Cordero stop · 12 min walk

Featured in: Parques de Cuenca

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Planetarium

Cuenca Planetarium

Planetarium · Parque de la Madre

A municipal dome inside Parque de la Madre with shows on the Andean sky and Cañari astronomy.

Tip: There are few shows a day and school groups fill them: check times before walking over.

🚇 Tram · Luis Cordero stop · 13 min walk

Featured in: Parques de Cuenca

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Big park

Parque El Paraíso

El Paraíso · Tomebamba-Yanuncay confluence

Cuenca's big park, right where the Tomebamba meets the Yanuncay: woods, ponds and bike paths.

Tip: It's the best place to actually see what 'city of four rivers' means.

🚇 City bus or taxi from the Tomás Ordóñez tram stop · 1.7 km

Featured in: Parques de Cuenca

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Botanical garden

Cuenca Botanical Garden

Botanical Garden · El Paraíso

Terraced Andean and páramo flora, orchids and a short, well-signed trail through highland plants.

Tip: It's the perfect warm-up for Cajas: in an hour you see the páramo plants that live at 4,000 m above sea level.

🚇 Lines 11 and 11B or taxi · detour via the 12 de Octubre roundabout

Featured in: Parques de Cuenca

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National museum

Pumapungo Museum

Pumapungo Museum · Calle Larga & Huayna Cápac

Cuenca's national museum: Cañari and Inca archaeology plus the ethnographic hall with the Shuar tsantsas.

Tip: Closed Mondays, and weekend hours are shorter than weekdays. Museum, park and aviary are separate entrances.

🚇 Tram · Tomás Ordóñez stop · 12 min walk

Featured in: Ministerio de Cultura y Patrimonio

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Inca ruins

Pumapungo Archaeological Park

Pumapungo · Inca terraces

The foundations of Tomebamba, the Inca city Cieza de León compared to Cuzco, terraced above the river.

Tip: Walk right down to the bottom terraces: almost nobody does, and that's where the canals and Andean garden are.

🚇 Tram · Tomás Ordóñez stop · 15 min walk

Featured in: Ministerio de Cultura y Patrimonio

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Aviary

Pumapungo Aviary

Aviary · Pumapungo Archaeological Park

A rescue centre inside the park with recovering Andean and Amazonian birds, among the terraces.

Tip: It's a separate entrance from the museum and shuts earlier: do it first, not last.

🚇 Tram · Tomás Ordóñez stop · 14 min walk

Featured in: Ministerio de Cultura y Patrimonio

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Archaeology

Museum of Aboriginal Cultures

Museum of Aboriginal Cultures · Calle Larga

A private collection of over five thousand pre-Columbian pieces ordered by culture, Valdivia to the Incas.

Tip: Paid entry and worth it: the chronology is so well laid out it works as a crash course in Andean archaeology.

🚇 Tram · Luis Cordero stop · 9 min walk

Featured in: Museos de la Calle Larga

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Museum · Convent

Museo de las Conceptas

Convento de la Concepción · Historic Centre

A 1599 cloistered convent partly opened: colonial art, nuns' toys and utterly silent courtyards.

Tip: The nuns still live behind the wall and sell sweets through a revolving hatch: ask at the door.

🚇 Tram · Luis Cordero stop · 6 min walk

Featured in: UNESCO 1999 · Centro Histórico

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House museum

Museo Remigio Crespo Toral

Remigio Crespo House Museum · Calle Larga

A republican mansion on Calle Larga reopened after a very long restoration: Cuenca history and art.

Tip: It was shut for years and old guidebooks still call it closed: today it opens all week, weekends included.

🚇 Tram · Luis Cordero stop · 9 min walk

Featured in: Museos de la Calle Larga

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Crafts · Museum

CIDAP Folk Art Museum

Inter-American Centre of Crafts and Folk Art · El Barranco

Museum and shop of the inter-American crafts body, with the best of Andean craft properly explained.

Tip: Closed Sundays and shuts earlier on Saturdays. Its craft fair is one of the November fixtures.

🚇 Tram · Luis Cordero stop · 9 min walk

Featured in: CIDAP · OEA

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Toquilla straw

Toquilla Straw Hat Museum (Calle Larga)

Hat Museum · Calle Larga & Padre Aguirre

A workshop-museum downtown where you watch the blocking and ironing of a hat, step by step.

Tip: A symbolic one-dollar entry and open seven days, Sunday included: the easiest museum to slot into your day.

🚇 Tram · Santo Domingo stop · 7 min walk

Featured in: UNESCO ICH 2012 · paja toquilla

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Factory · Hats

Homero Ortega Hat Museum (factory)

Homero Ortega · by the Terminal Terrestre

The historic exporting factory with its own museum: here you see industrial scale, not a shop-window workshop.

Tip: It's far from the centre, near the airport: pair it with your arrival or departure, not the old-town walk.

🚇 Tram · Terminal Terrestre stop · 3 min walk

Featured in: UNESCO ICH 2012 · paja toquilla

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Museum · City

City Museum

Former Escuela Central · Historic Centre

The restored Escuela Central tells how Cuenca went from Cañari Guapondélig to a heritage city.

Tip: Start here on day one: it sorts out the Cañari, Inca and colonial names all at once.

🚇 Tram · Antonio Borrero stop · 3 min walk

Featured in: UNESCO 1999 · Centro Histórico

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Cultural house

Casa de Chaguarchimbana

Chaguarchimbana · Las Herrerías

A mansion in the blacksmiths' quarter, now a cultural centre beside the Museum of the Arts of Fire.

Tip: Las Herrerías is still a street of forges: pass in the afternoon and you'll hear hammers from the pavement.

🚇 City bus or taxi from the Tomás Ordóñez tram stop · 1.8 km

Featured in: UNESCO 1999 · Las Herrerías

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Sculpture

Plaza del Herrero Monoliths

Plaza del Herrero · Las Herrerías

Eduardo Vega's iron sculptures planted in the forge quarter's square, out in the open.

Tip: It's the same Eduardo Vega as the Turi ceramics: here he's working metal instead of glaze.

🚇 City bus or taxi from the Tomás Ordóñez tram stop · 1.7 km

Featured in: UNESCO 1999 · Las Herrerías

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Theatre

Teatro Pumapungo

Teatro Pumapungo · Huayna Cápac

The big hall of the Pumapungo complex, where the city's festival concerts and shows land.

Tip: During November festival week the billing changes daily: check it from your phone.

🚇 Tram · Tomás Ordóñez stop · 13 min walk

Featured in: Ministerio de Cultura y Patrimonio

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Cultural centre

Casa de la Cultura, Azuay

Casa de la Cultura · Historic Centre

Theatre, cinema and the Salón del Pueblo: most of Cuenca's public cultural agenda comes out of here.

Tip: For Día de los Difuntos it stages the altars and offerings show in the Salón del Pueblo: free, and only a few days.

🚇 Tram · Luis Cordero stop · 4 min walk

Featured in: Casa de la Cultura Ecuatoriana

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Counterculture art

Prohibido Cultural Centre

Museo Prohibido · La Convención del 45

A museum of extreme countercultural art, gothic and fairly disturbing: the exact opposite of the colonial centre.

Tip: Not for kids and mostly open at night. It's Cuenca's oddball plan, which is exactly why it works.

🚇 Tram · Santo Domingo stop · 7 min walk

Featured in: Circuito cultural de Cuenca

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Small square

Plazoleta de Santa Ana

Plazoleta Santa Ana · Historic Centre

A hidden little square behind the New Cathedral, craft stalls and the slope up to Terraza Santa Ana.

Tip: This is the doorway to the cathedral terrace climb: if you can't find it, you're on the wrong façade.

🚇 Tram · Padre Aguirre stop · 2 min walk

Featured in: UNESCO 1999 · Centro Histórico

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Church

San Blas Church

San Blas Church · San Blas

Andesite stone and a Latin-cross plan, unique in the city: the church closing the old town to the east.

Tip: Look at the stone: the same grey andesite as Pumapungo, reused from Inca construction.

🚇 Tram · Tomás Ordóñez stop · right outside

Featured in: UNESCO 1999 · Centro Histórico

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Market · Hornado

Mercado 10 de Agosto

Mercado 10 de Agosto · Historic Centre

The benchmark market: hornado and mote upstairs, fruit downstairs, energy cleansings at the back.

Tip: Go up to the second floor and pick the stall by the queue of locals, not the sign. Bring small bills.

🚇 Tram · Santo Domingo stop · 6 min walk

Featured in: Mercados de Cuenca

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Market

Mercado 9 de Octubre

Mercado 9 de Octubre · Historic Centre

A neighbourhood market less touristy than 10 de Agosto, strong on grains, herbs and soupy food.

Tip: It's one of five markets selling colada morada and guaguas de pan during Difuntos week.

🚇 Tram · Gaspar Sangurima stop · 2 min walk

Featured in: Mercados de Cuenca

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Market

Mercado 3 de Noviembre

Mercado 3 de Noviembre · El Vado

A small market beside El Vado, named after the date of Cuenca's independence from Spain.

Tip: It has its own tram stop and hosts the Ruta Morada ceremony on 30 October, at midday.

🚇 Tram · Mercado 3 de Noviembre stop · right outside

Featured in: Mercados de Cuenca

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Wholesale market

Feria Libre El Arenal

Feria Libre · El Arenal

The giant wholesale market of the south: chaotic, dirt cheap and the truest picture of Cuenca's economy.

Tip: Watch your bag and don't wave your phone in the aisles. Tuesdays and Fridays it's twice the size.

🚇 Tram · El Arenal stop · 2 min walk

Featured in: Mercados de Cuenca

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Lookout

Turi Lookout

Turi Lookout · Turi parish

The whole of Cuenca from the south: the grid, the blue domes and Cajas behind on clear days.

Tip: Camino a Turi is shut after a sinkhole: go up via the 12 de Octubre roundabout, the CRS road or the Turi-Tarqui road. Check before you set off.

🚇 Lines 11 and 11B or taxi · detour via the 12 de Octubre roundabout

Featured in: Miradores de Cuenca

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Lookout · Tiers

Turi Amphitheatre

Amphitheatre · Turi

The stone tiers beside the lookout, where everyone sits to watch night fall over Cuenca.

Tip: Bring a layer: at 2,700 m above sea level and after sundown, Turi is a lot colder than downtown.

🚇 Lines 11 and 11B or taxi · detour via the 12 de Octubre roundabout

Featured in: Miradores de Cuenca

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Adventure

Aventuri

Adventure park · Turi

A swing over the void, zip line and hanging bridge on the Turi ridge, the whole city below.

Tip: The swing is the one in all the Turi photos, but it's a separate business from the lookout and charged apart.

🚇 Lines 11 and 11B or taxi · detour via the 12 de Octubre roundabout

Featured in: Miradores de Cuenca

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Lookout

Loma de Cullca Lookout

Loma de Cullca · El Vecino

The northern lookout, far closer to the centre than Turi and showing the city from the opposite side.

Tip: With Camino a Turi closed, this is the fallback lookout: half an hour's walk up from the centre.

🚇 Tram · Mercado 3 de Noviembre stop · 16 min walk

Featured in: Miradores de Cuenca

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Ceramics · Gallery

Eduardo Vega Gallery

E. Vega Ceramics Gallery & Workshops · Turi

The house-workshop of the ceramist who defined modern Cuenca aesthetics, on the Turi slope with a view terrace.

Tip: The gallery terrace has nearly the same view as the lookout with far fewer people. Entry is free.

🚇 Lines 11 and 11B or taxi · detour via the 12 de Octubre roundabout

Featured in: Artesanía de Azuay · CIDAP

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Church

Baños Church

Sanctuary of the Holy Spirit and Guadalupe · Baños

The two white towers visible from across the thermal parish, high above the village of Baños.

Tip: Baños de Cuenca has nothing to do with Baños near Ambato: two different Ecuadorian spa towns.

🚇 Line 12 to Baños or taxi from the Río Tarqui tram stop · 3.1 km

Featured in: Parroquia Baños de Cuenca

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Hot springs · Spa

Piedra de Agua

Piedra de Agua Thermal Spa · Baños

Baños' best-known thermal spa: baths cut into the rock below ground, volcanic mud and box steam baths.

Tip: Circuits are priced per person with a fixed duration; book online because weekends fill up.

🚇 Line 12 to Baños or taxi from the Río Tarqui tram stop · 2.7 km

Featured in: Termas de Baños de Cuenca

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Hot springs

Novaqua

Novaqua Thermal Spa · Baños

A modern thermal complex with pools, steam room, sauna and mud cave, built for a full day rather than a quick dip.

Tip: Novaqua and Hostería Durán are two blocks apart but separate businesses, with separate tickets and prices.

🚇 Line 12 to Baños or taxi from the Río Tarqui tram stop · 2.6 km

Featured in: Termas de Baños de Cuenca

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Hot springs · Pools

Durán Thermal Baths

Hostería Durán · Baños

The classic Baños bathhouse, the one everyone grew up with: big thermal pools, sauna and restaurant.

Tip: A weekday ticket is considerably cheaper than a weekend one: go on a Tuesday if you can.

🚇 Line 12 to Baños or taxi from the Río Tarqui tram stop · 2.6 km

Featured in: Termas de Baños de Cuenca

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Terminal

Cuenca Bus Terminal

Terminal Terrestre · Av. España

The bus hub of the whole southern highlands: Guayaquil, Loja, Quito, Gualaceo and Chordeleg leave here.

Tip: It has its own tram stop a block away: the cheapest way in from the centre with luggage.

🚇 Tram · Terminal Terrestre stop · right outside

Featured in: Movilidad de Cuenca

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Airport

Mariscal Lamar Airport

Mariscal Lamar Airport · Av. España

An in-town airport fifteen minutes from Parque Calderón, flights to Quito and Guayaquil, short runway.

Tip: The tram stops at the door: the only airport in Ecuador you reach by tram for 35 cents.

🚇 Tram · Aeropuerto stop · right outside

Featured in: Movilidad de Cuenca

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Campus

University of Cuenca

Central Campus · El Ejido

A historic riverside campus with old gardens, murals and the University Museum inside.

Tip: You can walk in: the campus gardens are public and link the Escalinata with El Barranco.

🚇 Tram · Coronel Tálbot stop · 10 min walk

Featured in: UNESCO 1999 · El Barranco

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Stadium

Alejandro Serrano Aguilar Stadium

Estadio Banco del Austro · El Ejido

Deportivo Cuenca's ground, wedged between river and centre: football at 2,560 m above sea level.

Tip: It carries a bank's naming rights, so signs and apps call it Estadio Banco del Austro.

🚇 Tram · Luis Cordero stop · 16 min walk

Featured in: Deportivo Cuenca

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Industrial heritage

Old Hydroelectric Plant

Historic hydro plant · West El Barranco

The first plant that lit Cuenca, on the Tomebamba bank, now repurposed and protected.

Tip: A 2026 irony: the city electrified by this river depends again on how much water comes down.

🚇 Tram · Av. México stop · 12 min walk

Featured in: UNESCO 1999 · El Barranco

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Where to eat in Cuenca: restaurants

Signature cooking

Tiesto's

Tiestos Café Restaurante · Calle Larga

Cuenca's signature restaurant: everything arrives in clay tiestos and the table fills with house sauces.

Tip: Book ahead: it's small and full every night. The opening sauces are unlimited and will fill you up first.

🚇 Tram · Luis Cordero stop · 7 min walk

Featured in: World Food Travel Association · Capital Culinaria 2024

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Roast cuy

Guajibamba

Guajibamba · Historic Centre

Cuenca's house of roast cuy: order ahead, eat it with mote and potatoes, and let it take its time.

Tip: Cuy must be ordered hours ahead; turn up unannounced and you'll eat something else. Call first.

🚇 Tram · Antonio Borrero stop · 2 min walk

Featured in: Cocina tradicional azuaya

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Cuencan classic

Raymipampa

Raymipampa · Parque Calderón

The Parque Calderón institution: a long Cuencan menu, window tables and the same service as always.

Tip: Ask for a window table over the park: the best downtown seat for lunch with a view of the square.

🚇 Tram · Santo Domingo stop · 3 min walk

Featured in: World Food Travel Association · Capital Culinaria 2024

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Andean produce

Homenaje Cocina Honesta

Homenaje · El Ejido

Southern Andean produce cooking on a small scale: short menu, lots of vegetables, contemporary technique.

Tip: The menu follows whatever came in at the Feria Libre that week: ask what arrived today before ordering.

🚇 Tram · Santo Domingo stop · 14 min walk

Featured in: World Food Travel Association · Capital Culinaria 2024

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Contemporary

Mayu

Mayu · El Ejido

Contemporary cooking from an Ecuadorian larder, built to share, in a small, carefully kept room.

Tip: Mayu means river in Quichua, and the menu follows: freshwater fish and produce from the four river basins.

🚇 Tram · Santo Domingo stop · 20 min walk

Featured in: World Food Travel Association · Capital Culinaria 2024

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Seasonal

Silvestra

Silvestra · El Ejido

A newer seasonal kitchen with house ferments and a menu that turns with what the highlands give.

Tip: One of the recent openings locals recommend ahead of the downtown classics.

🚇 Tram · El Arenal stop · 15 min walk

Featured in: World Food Travel Association · Capital Culinaria 2024

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Bistro

Lirondo

Lirondo · Historic Centre

A downtown bistro with market cooking, a daily blackboard and one of Cuenca's more decent wine lists.

Tip: The midday set menu is far cheaper than the evening card and carries the same blackboard dishes.

🚇 Tram · Santo Domingo stop · 3 min walk

Featured in: World Food Travel Association · Capital Culinaria 2024

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Breakfast · Bakery

Amasijos

Amasijos · El Ejido

A bakery-restaurant that takes the Cuencan breakfast seriously: oven bread, humitas and eggs of the day.

Tip: Order humitas and quimbolitos together and compare: cousins, but one wraps in corn husk and the other in achira leaf.

🚇 Tram · Coronel Tálbot stop · 18 min walk

Featured in: Cocina tradicional azuaya

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Terrace · River

La Casona del Puente Roto

La Casona · Puente Roto

A dining room on the bluff by the Puente Roto, Cuencan cooking and the best river terrace downtown.

Tip: Ask for the terrace, not the inside room: the whole point is watching the Tomebamba while you eat.

🚇 Tram · Tomás Ordóñez stop · 13 min walk

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Spanish

Akelarre

Akelarre · Historic Centre

Spanish cooking in a downtown mansion, hams hanging and a bar that keeps going late.

Tip: One of the few downtown that serves late: in Cuenca many kitchens close before 10pm.

🚇 Tram · Santo Domingo stop · 2 min walk

Featured in: World Food Travel Association · Capital Culinaria 2024

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Pizza

Mediterráneo Pizzería

Restaurant Mediterráneo · Historic Centre

A wood-oven thin-crust pizzeria, for years the easy downtown answer when you don't want cuy.

Tip: Perfect rainy-day plan: blocks from Parque Calderón and almost always a free table.

🚇 Tram · Luis Cordero stop · 7 min walk

Featured in: World Food Travel Association · Capital Culinaria 2024

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Italian

Salumeria Vecchia Modena

SVM Salumeria · Historic Centre

A real Italian salumeria in the middle of the Andes: house-cured meats, pasta and sharing boards.

Tip: Cuenca's Italian community is old and small: this is where it gathers, especially at weekends.

🚇 Tram · Tomás Ordóñez stop · 14 min walk

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French

Le Bistro Français

Le Bistro Francais · Historic Centre

A small, unpretentious French bistro with a handwritten daily menu and house-made desserts.

Tip: Few tables and it doesn't open every day: if you pass and it's open, go in right then.

🚇 Tram · Santo Domingo stop · 3 min walk

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Seafood

PROA Sabores del Mar

PROA · Historic Centre

Coastal fish and shellfish brought up to the highlands: ceviches, encocados and proper seafood rice.

Tip: Encocado is from Esmeraldas, not Azuay: order it to taste the coast without going down to the coast.

🚇 Tram · Coronel Tálbot stop · 13 min walk

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Ceviche

Ceviches de la Huayna Cápac

Ceviches Huayna Cápac · San Blas

A neighbourhood ceviche joint that's a Cuencan Sunday tradition: big portions, plastic chairs, long queue.

Tip: Ecuadorian ceviche comes in its broth with plantain chips and popcorn; don't expect the dry Peruvian style.

🚇 Tram · Tomás Ordóñez stop · 9 min walk

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Set lunch

Buuchetos

Buuchetos · Historic Centre

Everyday Ecuadorian food downtown: seco de chivo, llapingachos and a lunch at neighbourhood prices.

Tip: Llapingachos are from Tungurahua and Cotopaxi, not Azuay: here they're a guest, not a local dish.

🚇 Tram · Luis Cordero stop · 21 min walk

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Home-style

Pumapungo Cafetería Restaurant

Cafetería Pumapungo · Huayna Cápac

A typical dining room by the Pumapungo complex, home-style Azuay cooking and a very cheap set lunch.

Tip: It's right by the museum exit: the obvious stop if you chain Pumapungo with the aviary and park.

🚇 Tram · Tomás Ordóñez stop · 11 min walk

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Market cooking

El Mercado

El Mercado · Calle Larga, El Barranco

A design-led dining room over the bluff, market cooking, a long bar and windows onto the Tomebamba.

Tip: The back terrace overlooks the river and almost nobody asks for it: request it on arrival, not after sitting.

🚇 Tram · Santo Domingo stop · 11 min walk

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Bar · Terrace

Terrazas del Barranco

Terrazas del Barranco · El Barranco

A bar with stepped terraces above the Tomebamba, the classic spot for a beer with a river view.

Tip: Sunset over the bluff is quick because we're almost on the equator: by 6:30pm it's dark.

🚇 Tram · Santo Domingo stop · 8 min walk

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Craft beer

Cuenca Beer Company

Cuenca Beer Company · Historic Centre

A local craft brewery with its own taps and food to match, in an old-town house.

Tip: Careful with that first beer at 2,560 m above sea level: alcohol hits a lot harder than at sea level.

🚇 Tram · Luis Cordero stop · 8 min walk

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Pub

Golden Prague Pub

Golden Prague · Historic Centre

A Czech pub with draught beer and Central European food, an absolute rarity in the southern Ecuadorian Andes.

Tip: Cuenca has a large settled foreign community: bars like this exist because of them, not for tourists.

🚇 Tram · Luis Cordero stop · 16 min walk

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Ramen

Osaka Ramen

Osaka Ramen · San Sebastián

Ramen and Japanese food in a small room, the cold-night plan for when the páramo drops the temperature.

Tip: Cuenca gets dark early and cools fast all year: a hot broth at 7pm is very welcome.

🚇 Tram · Coronel Tálbot stop · 2 min walk

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Indian

Taj Mahal

Taj Mahal Indian Resto · Historic Centre

Curry and tandoor in the old town, with a broad vegetarian menu, uncommon in local cooking.

Tip: Travelling with a vegetarian? One of the safest menus downtown: Azuay cooking is very meat-heavy.

🚇 Tram · Santo Domingo stop · 8 min walk

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Mexican

Laredo's

Laredo's · Historic Centre

A downtown Mexican with tacos and margaritas, one of the places that doesn't close early in a city that does.

Tip: Cuenca's nightlife sits in a few old-town blocks: from here you can walk to nearly all of it.

🚇 Tram · Coronel Tálbot stop · 5 min walk

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Peruvian

D'Galia

D'Galia · Historic Centre

Peruvian cooking with a long card: ceviches, lomo saltado and the inevitable comparison with the local ceviche.

Tip: Order a ceviche here and another at an Ecuadorian cevichería on the same trip: two different dishes, one name.

🚇 Tram · Tomás Ordóñez stop · 19 min walk

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Tacos

Morlacos Tacos

Morlacos Tacos · Historic Centre

A small taquería with a Cuencan name: morlaco is what people from Cuenca have always called themselves.

Tip: Want to win over locals fast? Call them morlacos: it's their own nickname and they use it with pride.

🚇 Tram · Tomás Ordóñez stop · 3 min walk

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Encebollado

Encebollados El Monito

El Monito · Historic Centre

An encebollado stand: the tuna-and-cassava soup the whole of Ecuador eats to kill a hangover.

Tip: Encebollado is a national dish but coastal in origin: in Cuenca it's eaten in the morning, not at night.

🚇 Tram · Tomás Ordóñez stop · 15 min walk

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Grill

Come en Casa

Come en Casa · Historic Centre

Grill and café in a downtown house, charcoal meats and tables in the inner courtyard.

Tip: Inner courtyards are the charm of Cuencan houses: ask for a table in the patio, not the dining room.

🚇 Tram · Santo Domingo stop · 17 min walk

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Grill house

El Carbonazo

El Carbonazo · El Vergel

A popular neighbourhood grill with charcoal chicken and beef, generous plates and everyday prices.

Tip: The kind of place Cuencan families eat on Sunday: loud, packed and entirely untouristy.

🚇 Tram · Tomás Ordóñez stop · 15 min walk

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Soups · Set lunch

Encebollados y Algo Más

Encebollados y algo más · Historic Centre

A small soup-and-daily-plate room, the cheapest and most honest way to eat in central Cuenca.

Tip: Ask for motepata if they have it: the mote-and-pork-rind soup that really is from Azuay, not borrowed.

🚇 Tram · Santo Domingo stop · 7 min walk

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Home cooking

Dos Sucres

Dos Sucres · El Ejido

An eating house named after a currency that no longer exists: plain Cuencan cooking and homemade puddings.

Tip: The sucre died in 2000: Ecuador has used the US dollar since, and the name here is a pure local joke.

🚇 Tram · Luis Cordero stop · 20 min walk

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Café restaurant

Goza

Goza · Calle Larga, El Barranco

A restaurant-café on Calle Larga, a long daytime menu and a terrace looking over the bluff.

Tip: Don't confuse it with Goza Espresso Bar, a different place further south focused only on coffee.

🚇 Tram · Luis Cordero stop · 8 min walk

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Indian

Bapu India

Bapu India · Historic Centre

Home-style Indian in a small room, thalis and breads made to order at a very contained price.

Tip: Cuenca has far more world cooking than its size suggests: that's the foreign community at work.

🚇 Tram · Luis Cordero stop · 8 min walk

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Regional

El Tequila

El Tequila · Historic Centre

A regional kitchen in the old town, the sort that serves mote pillo at any hour without asking.

Tip: Mote pillo really is from Azuay and it's THE Cuenca dish: hominy scrambled with egg, onion and milk.

🚇 Tram · Corazón de Jesús stop · right outside

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Picantería

Picantería y Jugos Naturales

Picantería · Mercado 10 de Agosto

A picantería and juice stand by the market, with hornado, mote and juices squeezed in front of you.

Tip: Order a tree-tomato or taxo juice: Andean fruits you almost never find outside Ecuador.

🚇 Tram · Tomás Ordóñez stop · 3 min walk

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Specialty coffee in Cuenca

Wood-oven bread

Panadería Todos Santos

Todos Santos bakery · El Barranco

A wood-fired oven on the Todos Santos block, baking Cuenca bread for generations.

Tip: Todos Santos bakeries draw bread in batches: come mid-morning and you'll get it warm from the oven.

🚇 Tram · Luis Cordero stop · 8 min walk

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Bakery

Pan de Cuenca

Pan de Cuenca bakery · Historic Centre

A neighbourhood bakery with the full Cuencan repertoire: mestizo bread, corn tortillas, empanadas de viento.

Tip: Ask for an empanada de viento: cheese-filled, it puffs up as it fries and is eaten dusted with sugar.

🚇 Tram · Gaspar Sangurima stop · right outside

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Bakery

Panadería Nueva California

Nueva California · Historic Centre

A classic downtown bakery, the sort that fills its window with guaguas de pan in late October.

Tip: A guagua de pan is a sweet bread shaped like a swaddled baby: eat it dipped in colada morada, not alone.

🚇 Tram · Luis Cordero stop · 3 min walk

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Sourdough

Panadería Artesanal Taita

Taita · El Vergel

A sourdough and Andean-grain craft bakery, the bridge between the old oven and the new bakery.

Tip: Taita means father in Quichua: half of Cuenca mixes Spanish and Quichua without noticing.

🚇 Tram · Tomás Ordóñez stop · 11 min walk

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Corpus sweets

Corpus Sweet Shop

Corpus · Historic Centre

A sweet shop named for the dulces de Corpus, the most Cuencan convent confectionery there is.

Tip: Dulces de Corpus are Cuenca's own and appear mainly in June; the rest of the year, shops like this keep them.

🚇 Tram · Luis Cordero stop · right outside

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Pastry

Corpus Cristis

Corpus Cristis pastry · Historic Centre

A traditional sweet shop: cocadas, huevos de faltriquera, alfajores and nuns' suspiros.

Tip: Nearly all these sweets were born in the cloistered convents downtown: literally nuns' recipes.

🚇 Tram · Luis Cordero stop · right outside

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Ice cream

Monte Bianco

Monte Bianco Ice Cream & Pastry · San Blas

Cuenca's lifelong ice cream and pastry house, Andean fruit flavours and a cake counter.

Tip: Try mora, guanábana or tree tomato before the international flavours: those are the local fruits.

🚇 Tram · Tomás Ordóñez stop · 3 min walk

Featured in: World Food Travel Association · Capital Culinaria 2024

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Paila ice cream

Helados San Sebas

Helados San Sebas · San Sebastián

An ice cream shop on San Sebastián square, paila ice cream churned by hand out on the pavement.

Tip: Paila ice cream is churned in a bronze bowl over ice and salt: if you see it made, it's the real thing.

🚇 Tram · Coronel Tálbot stop · 3 min walk

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Ice cream

San Sebas Café Ice Cream

San Sebas Café ice cream · San Sebastián

San Sebas' ice cream arm, on the same square: craft scoops and tables in the morning sun.

Tip: San Sebastián square gets morning sun and afternoon shade: come early to sit outside.

🚇 Tram · Coronel Tálbot stop · 3 min walk

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Ice cream

Hacienda Suiza

Hacienda Suiza · Historic Centre

A popular downtown ice cream counter, cheap cones and a queue of schoolkids at home time.

Tip: Salcedo's layered colour ice lollies are from Cotopaxi, not Azuay: here they're imported from another province.

🚇 Tram · Aeropuerto stop · 3 min walk

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Roaster · Specialty

Café de Nucallacta

Nucallacta Coffee Roasters · Historic Centre

A Cuencan roaster of high-altitude Ecuadorian coffee, a brew bar and beans from southern farms.

Tip: Ecuador grows coffee and almost nobody knows: order a filter from Loja or Zaruma before an espresso.

🚇 Tram · Luis Cordero stop · 7 min walk

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Espresso bar

Goza Espresso Bar

Goza Espresso Bar · El Ejido

An espresso bar focused purely on coffee, no food menu to distract: own roast and brew methods.

Tip: A different place from the Goza restaurant on Calle Larga: same name, different address and kitchen.

🚇 Tram · Luis Cordero stop · 19 min walk

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Breakfast

San Sebas Café

San Sebas Café · San Sebastián

The breakfast house on San Sebastián square, a meeting point for locals and expats alike.

Tip: The best place to find out what's on this week: the noticeboard by the door is always full.

🚇 Tram · Coronel Tálbot stop · 3 min walk

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Viennese café

Café Austria

Café Austria · Historic Centre

A historic Central European café downtown, with strudel, cakes and wooden tables from another century.

Tip: Open for decades and one of the few downtown spots where you can sit for hours unhurried.

🚇 Tram · Luis Cordero stop · right outside

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Coffee · Cacao

Zaruma Café y Cacao

Zaruma Café y cacao · Historic Centre

Ecuadorian-origin coffee and chocolate at one counter: Zaruma beans and fine aroma cacao.

Tip: Ecuador's Cacao Arriba holds its own denomination of origin: one of the country's few real seals.

🚇 Tram · Santo Domingo stop · 4 min walk

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Cloth-brewed coffee

Café Lojano

Café Lojano · Historic Centre

Loja coffee roasted and brewed the old way, the cloth-strained cup drunk in southern homes.

Tip: Pasado coffee comes concentrated in a jug and you cut it with hot water: ask for the essence separately.

🚇 Tram · Luis Cordero stop · 3 min walk

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Roastery

Café Lojano El Tostador

El Tostador · Historic Centre

A neighbourhood roastery selling beans by the pound, where the smell arrives half a block before the sign.

Tip: Buying whole beans here to take home beats any souvenir on Calle Larga on price.

🚇 Tram · Santo Domingo stop · 3 min walk

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Café · Square

Café del Parque

Café del Parque · Parque Calderón

A café on Parque Calderón, tables facing the araucarias and the New Cathedral head-on.

Tip: The best observation post downtown: you see the whole square without standing in it.

🚇 Tram · Santo Domingo stop · 3 min walk

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Courtyard café

Café del Zaguán

El Zaguán · Historic Centre

A café hidden in the hallway of a republican house, inner courtyard and very few people who find it.

Tip: A zaguán is the entrance hall of Cuencan mansions: nearly all hide a courtyard with orange trees.

🚇 Tram · Santo Domingo stop · 3 min walk

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Book café

Palier Café Libro

Palier Café Libro · Historic Centre

A bookshop and café at once, shelves of Ecuadorian authors and a long table to settle in and read.

Tip: Good rain plan: Cuenca rains in the afternoon most of the year and nobody minds if you stay two hours.

🚇 Tram · Luis Cordero stop · 5 min walk

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Chocolate shop

Chocoa Cafetería & Chocolate

Chocoa · El Barranco

An Ecuadorian cacao chocolate house with single-origin bars, bonbons and properly thick hot chocolate.

Tip: Ecuador is the land of fine aroma cacao: most premium chocolate in the world carries some of it.

🚇 Tram · Tomás Ordóñez stop · 11 min walk

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Chocolate shop

Dos Chorreras Chocolatería

Dos Chorreras · Historic Centre

A Cajas estate's shop window downtown: hot chocolate, smoked trout and highland sweets.

Tip: Dos Chorreras is also the classic Cajas inn, above 3,800 m above sea level and off this map.

🚇 Tram · Santo Domingo stop · 2 min walk

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Café

Moritas

Moritas · Historic Centre

A neighbourhood café with homemade cakes and the hot-drink list locals use in the afternoon.

Tip: Order a morocho: the thick corn, milk and cinnamon drink taken here as an afternoon meal, not dessert.

🚇 Tram · Luis Cordero stop · 8 min walk

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Tamales · Chumales

Cafetería Mary

Mary tamales, chumales & tortillas · Historic Centre

A stand of homemade tamales, chumales and corn tortillas, the Cuencan afternoon snack of always.

Tip: Chumal is the Cuencan name for humita: ask for humita and they'll get it, but chumal is the local word.

🚇 City bus or taxi from the Coronel Tálbot tram stop · 1.8 km

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Café · Square

Otorongo Café

Otorongo · Plaza del Otorongo

A café on the sunken Otorongo plaza, outdoor tables and the river steps right beside it.

Tip: Otorongo means jaguar in Quichua: the name comes from myth, not the animal, which doesn't live up here.

🚇 Tram · Coronel Tálbot stop · 6 min walk

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Specialty coffee

Melatte

Melatte · Historic Centre

A counter café with latte art and its own pastry, one of the new wave openings downtown.

Tip: At 2,560 m above sea level water boils below 92 °C: that's why Cuencan espresso tastes different.

🚇 Tram · Luis Cordero stop · 4 min walk

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Café · Herbal teas

Botánico

Botánico · El Ejido

A plant-filled, sunlit café in El Ejido, with Andean herb infusions alongside the coffee list.

Tip: Ask for agua de frescos: the herb infusion sold in Cuenca's markets, served here in a cup.

🚇 Tram · Mercado 3 de Noviembre stop · 6 min walk

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Café

Corpus Café

Corpus Café · Historic Centre

A downtown café with traditional Cuencan pastry and small tables on a quiet pedestrian street.

Tip: In late October nearly every downtown café adds colada morada: ask even if it isn't on the board.

🚇 Tram · Santo Domingo stop · 3 min walk

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Shopping in Cuenca: where to shop

Hats

Homero Ortega

Homero Ortega and Hijos · Historic Centre

Cuenca's historic hat house, with its downtown shop and the full scale of fineness on display.

Tip: Price rises with weaves per inch: hold the hat to the light and count the rings to understand the jump.

🚇 Tram · Luis Cordero stop · 5 min walk

Featured in: UNESCO ICH 2012 · paja toquilla

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Hats

La Paja Toquilla Joselo

Joselo · Calle Larga

A hat workshop-shop on Calle Larga, where blocking and ironing happen in front of the customer.

Tip: A good hat rolls up and springs back. Ask them to roll it: if it creases, it wasn't fine.

🚇 Tram · Luis Cordero stop · 5 min walk

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Hats

La Paja Toquilla

La paja toquilla · Calle Larga

A toquilla hat and weave shop with a wide price range, from cheap souvenir to a genuinely fine piece.

Tip: The name 'Panama hat' is a historical buyers' error: the weave has always been Ecuadorian.

🚇 Tram · Luis Cordero stop · 6 min walk

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Factory · Hats

PAMAR Hat Factory

PAMAR · El Vecino

A neighbourhood hat factory off the tourist circuit, where you buy at near-wholesale prices.

Tip: Ecuador's denomination of origin is 'Sombrero de Montecristi', from Manabí: a Cuenca hat is a different product, not a fake.

🚇 Tram · Sector La Cuadra stop · 20 min walk

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Crafts

Rotary Craft Market

Plaza Rotary · Historic Centre

The big craft market downtown: tinwork, leather, ceramics, baskets and trade tools.

Tip: This is where you buy real clay pots and tiestos, not the decorative versions on Calle Larga.

🚇 Tram · Gaspar Sangurima stop · right outside

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Local crafts

CEMUART Craft Centre

Municipal Craft Centre · Historic Centre

A municipal centre where Cuenca's artisans sell direct, no middleman and at a fair price.

Tip: Buying here means buying from the maker: most stalls are run by the artisan themselves.

🚇 Tram · Santo Domingo stop · 4 min walk

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Craft gallery

Portal Artesanal

Portal Artesanal · Av. Gil Ramírez Dávalos

A big covered craft gallery with dozens of stalls: the place to shop in the rain and without rushing.

Tip: Fully roofed, so it's the shopping plan when the afternoon downpour arrives.

🚇 Tram · Tomás Ordóñez stop · right outside

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Crafts

Artesanías Atahualpa

Artesanías Atahualpa · Gran Colombia

A classic Andean craft shop on Gran Colombia: weavings, carvings, instruments and ceramics.

Tip: Gran Colombia is the shopping street downtown: walk it end to end, San Sebastián to San Blas.

🚇 Tram · Luis Cordero stop · right outside

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Textiles

Artesanías Álvarez

Artesanías Álvarez · Gran Colombia

A Gran Colombia craft house with ponchos, ikat macanas and southern Andean textiles.

Tip: The macana is Gualaceo's ikat shawl, not Cuenca's: woven 40 minutes away and sold in the centre.

🚇 Tram · Luis Cordero stop · right outside

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Crafts

Artesanías Sudamericanas

Artesanías sudamericanas · Historic Centre

A regional craft shop with weavings, bags and pieces from several highland provinces.

Tip: Always ask which province a piece is from: much of what sells in Cuenca comes from Otavalo or Gualaceo.

🚇 Tram · Santo Domingo stop · 4 min walk

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Crafts

Balcón de Turi Crafts

Balcón de Turi · Turi

A craft stall beside the Turi lookout, ceramics and souvenirs made in the neighbourhood itself.

Tip: Turi was a pottery quarter long before the lookout: the ceramics sold here are fired blocks away.

🚇 Lines 11 and 11B or taxi · detour via the 12 de Octubre roundabout

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Filigree

Joyería León

Joyería León · Gran Colombia

A jeweller on the goldsmiths' block, silver filigree worked in the Chordeleg manner.

Tip: Filigree is from Chordeleg, an hour away: you can buy it here without the trip, but ask where it was made.

🚇 Tram · Santo Domingo stop · right outside

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Jewellery

Georgia Joyería

Georgia Joyería · Gran Colombia

A downtown jewellery workshop in southern silver and gold, each piece worked by hand.

Tip: Check for the hallmark: sterling 925 is stamped, and in good houses you can see it at a glance.

🚇 Tram · Antonio Borrero stop · right outside

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Silversmith

Cordero Platería

Cordero Platería · Gran Colombia

A working silversmith on the jewellers' street, silver pieces in the Azuay style.

Tip: There are over fifteen jewellers in a row on this block: comparing prices takes ten minutes.

🚇 Tram · Padre Aguirre stop · 2 min walk

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Silver

Silver Platería Fina

Silver Platería Fina · Historic Centre

A fine silver shop downtown, with filigree, chola cuencana earrings and commissioned pieces.

Tip: The chola cuencana's candonga hoops are the real local souvenir: heavy, filigree and not touristy at all.

🚇 Lines 11 and 11B or taxi · detour via the 12 de Octubre roundabout

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Ceramics

Martha Cerámica

Martha Cerámica · El Vado

A ceramics workshop in El Vado, author pieces and the wheel turning at the back of the shop.

Tip: El Vado is full of small workshops: go in even if the door looks shut, they're usually inside working.

🚇 Tram · Santo Domingo stop · 7 min walk

Featured in: Artesanía de Azuay · CIDAP

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Jewellery

Alta Joyería

Alta Joyería · Gran Colombia

A Gran Colombia jeweller working gold in the southern style, one of the oldest shops on the block.

Tip: In Ecuador gold is priced in dollars and shifts daily: ask the price per gram before choosing a piece.

🚇 Tram · Santo Domingo stop · right outside

Featured in: Artesanía de Azuay · CIDAP

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Design · Gifts

La Caja de Amaya

La Caja de Amaya · Historic Centre

A design and gift shop with contemporary Ecuadorian product: stationery, textiles and small objects.

Tip: The alternative to the usual souvenir: Ecuadorian designers' work and far easier to pack.

🚇 City bus or taxi from the Tomás Ordóñez tram stop · 1.9 km

Featured in: Artesanía de Azuay · CIDAP

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Embroidery

Isabel Arte y Costura

Isabel Arte y Costura · Historic Centre

An embroidery and sewing workshop done by hand, one of the trades still holding up central Cuenca.

Tip: The chola cuencana's embroidered pollera comes from workshops like this: Azuay's identity garment.

🚇 Tram · Coronel Tálbot stop · 3 min walk

Featured in: Artesanía de Azuay · CIDAP

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Bookshop

Carlotita Books

Carlotita libros · Historic Centre

An independent downtown bookshop with Ecuadorian fiction and poetry, hard to find outside the country.

Tip: Cuenca is a city of poets: ask for Efraín Jara Idrovo, who gives his name to the Casa de la Cultura hall.

🚇 Tram · Luis Cordero stop · right outside

Featured in: Artesanía de Azuay · CIDAP

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Shopping mall

Mall del Río

Mall del Río · Av. Felipe II

Cuenca's big shopping mall, on the Yanuncay, with national brands, cinema and a food court.

Tip: There's a tram stop nearby and air conditioning: the obvious refuge if the afternoon downpour catches you.

🚇 Lines 11 and 11B or taxi · detour via the 12 de Octubre roundabout

Featured in: Centros comerciales de Cuenca

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Shopping mall

Monay Shopping

Monay Shopping Center · Monay

The east-side mall, more of a neighbourhood affair than Mall del Río, with a big supermarket.

Tip: The big supermarket is the practical place to break a twenty: market stalls rarely have change.

🚇 Tram · Milchichig stop · 20 min walk

Featured in: Centros comerciales de Cuenca

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Shopping gallery

El Arenal Shopping Centre

CC El Arenal · Feria Libre

The shopping gallery attached to the Feria Libre, a mix of stalls, shops and wholesale chaos next door.

Tip: It has a tram stop at the door and is where the Ruta Morada starts on 30 October.

🚇 Tram · El Arenal stop · 2 min walk

Featured in: Mercados de Cuenca

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Dry sweets

Crocantitos

Crocantitos · Historic Centre

A bakery-shop of dry Cuencan sweets: rosquillas, bizcochuelos and biscuits to take home as gifts.

Tip: Dry sweets survive the trip and clear any customs: a better edible souvenir than colada morada.

🚇 Tram · Tomás Ordóñez stop · 7 min walk

Featured in: Dulcería tradicional azuaya

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Chocolate

Choco Corazón

Choco Corazon · Historic Centre

A chocolate shop using Ecuadorian cacao, Andean fruit bonbons and single-origin bars to take away.

Tip: Cacao Arriba holds an Ecuadorian denomination of origin: check the label says so, not just the shop sign.

🚇 Tram · El Salado stop · 11 min walk

Featured in: Café de origen ecuatoriano

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Andean textiles

Folklor Latino

Folklor Latino · Historic Centre

An Andean clothing and textile shop with ponchos, scarves and wool from several highland provinces.

Tip: Cuenca cools sharply the moment the sun drops: a wool scarf here is a useful buy, not a souvenir.

🚇 Tram · Santo Domingo stop · right outside

Featured in: Artesanía de Azuay · CIDAP

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