📍 Phnom Penh tourist map

149 real places · MICHELIN Keys, Asia's 50 Best Discovery and Khmer press · no Eater coverage

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Things to do in Phnom Penh: the full list behind the map

This interactive map of Phnom Penh (Cambodia) brings together 149 hand-picked places: 47 attractions, 45 restaurants, 26 cafés and 31 shops. It also includes 5 walking routes with their stops in order. For every place you get what it is, a practical tip and how to get there by public transport. It is free, works on your phone and needs no sign-up.

· Curated by the HOLASIM team · How we make the maps

Walking routes in Phnom Penh

Tap a route to see it drawn on the map, stop by stop.

The kingdom and the river

3–4 h on foot · Start 8am at the Palace, which shuts 11 to 2 · Shoulders and knees covered · Finish with the sunset cruise · 7 stops

  1. Royal Palace
  2. Silver Pagoda
  3. National Museum
  4. Wat Ounalom
  5. Psar Kandal
  6. Night Market
  7. Sunset cruise jetty
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Memory: S-21 and Choeung Ek

Half a day · Tuol Sleng 8–5 (USD 5 + USD 5 audio guide) and Choeung Ek 7:30–5:30 (USD 6, guide included) · Two separate gates, two different prices · Cover arms and legs · 6 stops

  1. Monument Books
  2. Tuol Sleng S-21
  3. Khmer Noodle 1960s
  4. Choeung Ek
  5. Memorial Stupa
  6. AEON Mall 3
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New Khmer Architecture

3 h · Vann Molyvann's concrete, 1958 to 1966 · Best at dusk, when the stadium fills up · Nearly all of it is free from the street · 6 stops

  1. Independence Monument
  2. Chaktomuk Conference Hall
  3. National Olympic Stadium
  4. Olympic Water Tower
  5. City Mall
  6. Vann Molyvann House
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Markets, silk and coffee

Half a day · Start 7:30 at the Russian Market, which shuts at 5 · Always haggle and carry loose riel · There is no official Khmer silk seal: ask and touch · 7 stops

  1. Eric Kayser TTP
  2. Russian Market
  3. Rajana Crafts
  4. Daughters of Cambodia
  5. Wat Than Artisans
  6. Central Market
  7. Sorya rooftop
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A night on the Bassac

From 5pm · Aerobics in the park, sunset on the bridge and alley bars · Now the rains are over it's all outdoors · Head back by PassApp or Grab, not walking alone · 7 stops

  1. Neak Banh Tuek Park
  2. Hun Sen Park
  3. Koh Norea sunset
  4. Khmer StrEAT Night Market
  5. Diamond Island
  6. Bassac Lane
  7. Sora Sky Bar
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Things to do in Phnom Penh: top attractions

The heart of the kingdom

Royal Palace

ព្រះបរមរាជវាំង · Daun Penh

The palace where the king still lives: gilded roofs, the Throne Hall and gardens that look painted on.

Tip: Open 8–11 and 2–5: it closes at midday, so don't turn up at noon. USD 10 covers the Silver Pagoda and the audio guide. Shoulders and knees covered — free sarongs at the guard booth.

🚇 You are on the grounds; main gate entrance

Featured in: Royal Palace Cambodia · cambodiakingdom.com 2026

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Silver underfoot

Silver Pagoda (Wat Preah Keo)

វត្តព្រះកែវមរកត · Daun Penh

Over 5,000 solid silver floor tiles and an emerald Buddha: the treasure the Khmer Rouge didn't take.

Tip: Covered by the same Palace ticket. Most of the floor is carpeted to protect it — look at the edges, that's where you see the silver. No photos inside.

🚇 A 3-min walk from the Royal Palace

Featured in: Royal Palace Cambodia

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Where the king is crowned

Throne Hall

ព្រះទីនាំងទេវាវិនិច្ឆ័យ · Daun Penh

The 59 m spire with Brahma's face looking out in four directions. This is where Khmer kings are crowned.

Tip: The interior is rarely open — seeing it from outside is the norm. 29 October is King Sihamoni's Coronation Day and the grounds turn ceremonial.

🚇 You are on the grounds; main gate entrance

Featured in: Royal Palace Cambodia

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The kings' balcony

Moonlight Pavilion

ព្រះទីនាំងច័ន្ទឆាយា · Daun Penh

The open terrace on the palace wall where the royal family appears and classical Khmer dance is performed.

Tip: You get a perfect view from Sothearos street without paying. Heads up: the Water Festival programme in front of the palace is SUSPENDED for 2026, though the 23-25 November holiday still stands.

🚇 A 3-min walk from the Royal Palace

Featured in: Royal Palace Cambodia

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The king's house

Khemarin Palace

ខេមរិន្ទ្រ · Daun Penh

The king's private residence. If the blue flag is flying, Sihamoni is home.

Tip: You never go in, but you see it from the Palace garden. Watch the flagpole: the blue flag means the king is inside.

🚇 A 2-min walk from the Royal Palace

Featured in: Royal Palace Cambodia

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French iron in Cambodia

Napoleon III Pavilion

ព្រះទីនាំងណាប៉ូឡេអុង · Daun Penh

A prefabricated iron house the Empress Eugénie sent as a gift in 1876. Pure colonial oddity inside a Khmer palace.

Tip: It sits inside the Palace grounds and most people walk past it. Look left of the Throne Hall: grey and metallic, unmistakable.

🚇 A 2-min walk from the Royal Palace

Featured in: Royal Palace Cambodia

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Angkor without leaving the capital

National Museum of Cambodia

សារមន្ទីរជាតិ · Daun Penh

The terracotta-red pavilion holds the world's best Khmer sculpture collection, with Angkor pieces you won't see in Siem Reap.

Tip: It is right next to the Palace — do both the same day. The central courtyard with its lotus pond is fine to photograph; the galleries are not.

🚇 A 5-min walk from the Royal Palace

Featured in: National Museum of Cambodia

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Memory, not sightseeing

Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (S-21)

សារមន្ទីរទួលស្លែង · Boeung Keng Kang

A high school turned into a Khmer Rouge torture centre. Today it is a genocide memorial site, inscribed by UNESCO.

Tip: Open 8–5 daily. Admission USD 5; the audio guide is a separate USD 5 and is worth every cent. Arms and legs covered, and no mobile phones inside the exhibition buildings.

🚇 City bus 5, Toul Tom Poung Market stop, then a 11-min walk

Featured in: tuolsleng.gov.kh · UNESCO 2025

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The second UNESCO memorial site

Choeung Ek Genocidal Center

មជ្ឈមណ្ឌលជើងឯក · Dangkao

The Killing Fields. A quiet field of open graves and a glass stupa holding thousands of skulls. You visit it in silence.

Tip: Open 7:30–5:30. Admission USD 6 with the audio guide included — unlike Tuol Sleng, where it costs extra. It is 10 km out: budget 45 min by tuk-tuk and 90 min inside.

🚇 City bus 11B to Salar Sangkat Choeung Ek, then a 13-min walk, or a tuk-tuk from the centre

Featured in: Choeung Ek Genocidal Center · UNESCO 2025

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The centre of the site

Choeung Ek Memorial Stupa

ចេតិយជើងឯក · Dangkao

The seventeen-tier Buddhist stupa holding over 5,000 skulls, arranged by age and by how each person died.

Tip: You enter barefoot and in silence. Cambodians leave incense and bracelets: don't touch or move them for a photo.

🚇 City bus 11B, Salar Sangkat Choeung Ek stop, then a 12-min walk

Featured in: Choeung Ek Genocidal Center

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Where Phnom Penh began

Wat Phnom

វត្តភ្នំ · Daun Penh

The 27 m hill that gave the city its name. Legend says Lady Penh found four Buddhas floating in the river here.

Tip: USD 1 for foreigners. Go up the naga staircase on the east side. The area gets lonely after dark: come by day.

🚇 A 28-min walk from the Royal Palace

Featured in: Wat Phnom · Khmer Times

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The founder

Statue of Lady Penh

រូបសំណាកដូនពេញ · Daun Penh

The statue of the widow who founded the city in 1372. Phnom Penh means, literally, 'Penh's hill'.

Tip: It stands at the foot of the hill, not on top — plenty of people climb past it. Free, and locals leave jasmine offerings.

🚇 A 27-min walk from the Royal Palace

Featured in: Wat Phnom

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The country's mother temple

Wat Ounalom

វត្តឧណ្ណាលោម · Daun Penh

The seat of Cambodian Buddhism since 1443 and home of the Supreme Patriarch. It half-survived the Khmer Rouge.

Tip: Free and almost tourist-free, one block from the river. At dusk the monks chant: sit at the back and listen.

🚇 A 9-min walk from the Royal Palace

Featured in: Wat Ounalom

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A forest of stupas

Wat Botum

វត្តបុទុមវតី · Daun Penh

The 'temple of the lotuses', founded in 1442, with a forest of white and gold stupas holding monks and royals.

Tip: Free and half a block from the Palace. The park alongside fills with evening aerobics classes: the city's best portrait.

🚇 A 8-min walk from the Royal Palace

Featured in: Wat Botum

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Meditation for beginners

Wat Langka

វត្តលង្កា · Boeung Keng Kang

One of the city's five original monasteries, from 1442. It now runs meditation sessions open to anyone who walks in.

Tip: The English-language meditation sessions are free and open: arrive 10 minutes early and sit at the back. Cover shoulders and knees.

🚇 A 3-min walk from the Independence Monument

Featured in: Wat Langka

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Murals with aeroplanes

Wat Moha Montrey

វត្តមហាមន្ត្រី · Chamkar Mon

A 1970 temple whose murals tell the Buddha's life in modern scenes — there are aeroplanes and cars among the gods.

Tip: Free and two blocks from the Olympic Stadium. Look at the north wall mural — that's where the aeroplane is. Shoes off before the vihara.

🚇 A 7-min walk from the Olympic Stadium

Featured in: Wat Moha Montrey

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Vann Molyvann, 1958

Independence Monument

វិមានឯករាជ្យ · Daun Penh

The brick-coloured lotus tower Vann Molyvann raised in 1958 to mark independence from France. The city's icon.

Tip: You don't climb it, you circle it. It lights up red, blue and white at dusk, and on 9 November, Independence Day, the official ceremony happens here.

🚇 You are on the grounds; main gate entrance

Featured in: Independence Monument · Vann Molyvann Project

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The king father

Statue of King Norodom Sihanouk

រូបសំណាកព្រះបាទនរោត្តមសីហនុ · Daun Penh

A nine-metre bronze of the king father under an open dome, facing the Independence Monument.

Tip: 15 October is his commemoration day and the plinth fills with offerings. Free, always open, and lit at night.

🚇 A 3-min walk from the Independence Monument

Featured in: Khmer Times

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Uncomfortable history

Cambodia–Vietnam Friendship Monument

វិមានមិត្តភាពកម្ពុជា-វៀតណាម · Daun Penh

A brutalist 1979 concrete slab with soldiers from both countries. One of Cambodia's most argued-over monuments.

Tip: It stands in Wat Botum park, 300 m from the Palace. Ask an older Cambodian what they think: the answer is half the visit.

🚇 A 10-min walk from the Royal Palace

Featured in: Khmer Times

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New Khmer Architecture

National Olympic Stadium

ពហុកីឡាដ្ឋានជាតិអូឡាំពិក · Prampir Makara

Vann Molyvann's masterpiece: concrete, water and earth banking from 1964. It has never hosted an Olympic Games.

Tip: At dusk it fills with aerobics classes, football and people running the terraces: walking in to watch is free. The Olympic pools are open to the public.

🚇 You are on the grounds; main gate entrance

Featured in: Vann Molyvann Project · Olympic Stadium

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Sixties concrete

Olympic Water Tower

ប៉មទឹកអូឡាំពិក · Prampir Makara

The mushroom-shaped water tank Vann Molyvann planted beside the stadium. Pure 1960s concrete.

Tip: You can't go in — it's for looking and photographing. Best light late in the afternoon, when the concrete turns orange.

🚇 A 6-min walk from the Olympic Stadium

Featured in: Vann Molyvann Project

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The fan on the river

Chaktomuk Conference Hall

សាលសន្និសីទចតុមុខ · Daun Penh

Vann Molyvann's 1961 concrete fan, opening towards the river. The Khmer Rouge leaders were tried here.

Tip: Outside only unless there's a performance. The fan shape only makes sense from Sisowath Quay, not from the back street.

🚇 A 9-min walk from the Royal Palace

Featured in: Vann Molyvann Project

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The architect at home

Vann Molyvann House

ផ្ទះវណ្ណ មូលីវណ្ណ · Chamkar Mon

The house the architect designed for himself in 1966: cross-ventilation, a pond and shade, with no air conditioning.

Tip: It is private property: look from the pavement, don't ring the bell. Fold it into a Toul Tom Poung walk.

🚇 City bus 5, American Intercon School stop, then a 4-min walk

Featured in: Vann Molyvann Project

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Ghost cinema

Former Capitol Cinema

អតីតរោងភាពយន្តកាពីតូល · Daun Penh

One of the sixties cinemas the city lost but never demolished: now housing, with the marquee still legible.

Tip: People live inside: photograph the façade from across the street and don't go in. Phnom Penh had over 30 cinemas before 1975.

🚇 A 10-min walk from Central Market

Featured in: Vann Molyvann Project · Khmer Times

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A modern fossil

Former Bokor Cinema

អតីតរោងភាពយន្តបូកគោ · Chamkar Mon

The curved concrete marquee is still there, turned into a garage and storeroom. A fossil of the modern sixties city.

Tip: No sign, no entrance: this is urban archaeology. Combine it with Tuol Sleng, a few blocks away.

🚇 City bus 5, Bokor Intersection stop, then a 1-min walk

Featured in: Vann Molyvann Project

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The country that abolished money

SOSORO Museum of Economy and Money

សារមន្ទីរសូសូរ៉ូ · Daun Penh

The museum explaining why Cambodia was the only country on earth to abolish money: the Khmer Rouge blew up the central bank in 1975.

Tip: A modern, air-conditioned and nearly empty museum: ideal for midday heat. Closed Mondays. You'll understand the dollar-riel thing in twenty minutes.

🚇 A 23-min walk from the Royal Palace

Featured in: SOSORO Museum · Khmer Times

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Leather shadows

Sovanna Phum Art Association

សមាគមសិល្បៈសុវណ្ណភូមិ · Chamkar Mon

Khmer shadow theatre with pierced-leather puppets — the 'sbek thom' tradition that nearly died with the genocide.

Tip: Shows run weekend evenings: ring ahead to confirm the day before crossing town. After the show they let you handle the puppets.

🚇 City bus 7, Boeung Trabek Pumping Station stop, then a 9-min walk

Featured in: Sovanna Phum · Khmer Times

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Local scene

Kok Thlok Theatre

រោងមហោស្រពកោកធ្លក · Daun Penh

A small hall for contemporary Khmer theatre and dance, a step from Wat Phnom. Local programming, not a tourist show.

Tip: The listings live mostly on Facebook and change weekly: check the same day. Cheap tickets, cash only.

🚇 A 7-min walk from Wat Phnom

Featured in: Khmer Times

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The best sunset

Koh Norea Bridge Sunset Viewpoint

កន្លែងទស្សនាស្ពានកោះនរា · Chbar Ampov

The new lookout over the Koh Norea cable-stayed bridge, the whole Mekong in front and the city backlit.

Tip: Now the rains have ended the sky stays clear: arrive 40 minutes before sunset. Free, with drinks stalls alongside.

🚇 Tuk-tuk from the Royal Palace, about 11 min

Featured in: Khmer Times

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The island of replicas

Diamond Island (Koh Pich)

កោះពេជ្រ · Chamkar Mon

The Bassac's man-made island: odd replicas of the Eiffel Tower and the Arc de Triomphe, river promenades and the city's new skyline.

Tip: Free and huge: come by tuk-tuk and do it on foot or by bike. The government suspended the central 2026 Water Festival programme here, so November will be quiet.

🚇 Tuk-tuk from the Royal Palace, about 8 min

Featured in: Khmer Times

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The 2010 tragedy

Diamond Bridge Memorial Stupa

ស្តូបជនរងគ្រោះស្ពានកោះពេជ្រ · Chamkar Mon

The stupa remembering the 351 people killed in the Koh Pich bridge crush during the 2010 Water Festival.

Tip: The Water Festival was suspended for years after that, and Phnom Penh's 2026 programme has been suspended again. The 23-25 November holiday stands, but there are no boat races here.

🚇 A 22-min walk from the Royal Palace

Featured in: Khmer Times · Phnom Penh Post

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Aerobics at dusk

Neak Banh Tuek Park

សួននាគព័ន្ធទឹក · Daun Penh

The fountain park opposite the Royal Palace, with stone nagas spouting water and the city's best street aerobics.

Tip: At 6pm the speaker-powered classes start: pay 1,000 riel and join in, nobody will look twice. The fountains come on at dusk.

🚇 A 14-min walk from the Royal Palace

Featured in: Khmer Times

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Riverside neighbourhood life

Samdech Techo Hun Sen Park

សួនសម្តេចតេជោហ៊ុនសែន · Chamkar Mon

The long park running along the Bassac, full of families, food stalls and people cycling as the sun drops.

Tip: This is where the city comes out to breathe now the rains have stopped. Bring loose riel for the stalls: no cards there.

🚇 A 18-min walk from the Royal Palace

Featured in: Khmer Times

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Sunset cruise

Marina Port of Phnom Penh

កំពង់ផែទេសចរណ៍ · Daun Penh

The Sisowath Quay jetty where sunset cruises leave for the Chaktomuk, the crossing of the four rivers.

Tip: Boats leave around 5:30pm and cost USD 5–10 a head, drinks extra. Haggle at the jetty and pay as you board, never before.

🚇 A 24-min walk from the Royal Palace

Featured in: Khmer Times

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Alley bars

Bassac Lane

ផ្លូវបាសាក់ · Tonle Bassac

An alley of tiny bars hidden behind Street 308: every door is a different bar, all from the same crew.

Tip: Night only, never daytime. Each bar has six or seven stools: if it's full, move to the next door. Dollars accepted.

🚇 A 7-min walk from the Independence Monument

Featured in: Time Out · Khmer Times

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Terraces and live music

Langka Lane

ផ្លូវលង្កា · Boeung Keng Kang

The newer take on the bar alley, next to Wat Langka: terraces, live music and fewer tourists than Bassac.

Tip: Now the rain has stopped the upper terraces reopen: it's the best time of year to sit outside.

🚇 A 5-min walk from the Independence Monument

Featured in: Time Out

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Non-violence

Knotted Gun sculpture

កាំភ្លើងចងគួច · Toul Kork

The replica of the revolver with a knotted barrel the UN gave Cambodia: a symbol of disarmament after the civil war.

Tip: It sits on a northern roundabout, off the tourist loop: ask your tuk-tuk to stop two minutes on the way to Toul Kork.

🚇 A 22-min walk from Wat Phnom

Featured in: Khmer Times

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Recent history

1997 Grenade Attack Memorial

ស្តូបជនរងគ្រោះឆ្នាំ១៩៩៧ · Daun Penh

A discreet marker opposite the old Freedom Park, where grenades thrown at a 1997 rally killed at least 16 people.

Tip: It's small and easy to walk past: on the pavement, 200 m from the Palace. A two-minute stop on a Riverside walk.

🚇 A 5-min walk from the Royal Palace

Featured in: Phnom Penh Post

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Muslim Cambodia

Al-Serkal Mosque

ម៉ាស្ជីតអាល់-សឺកាល់ · Daun Penh

The main mosque of Phnom Penh's Cham community, rebuilt after the Khmer Rouge razed it.

Tip: The Cham are Cambodia's Muslim minority, singled out for persecution between 1975 and 1979. Visit outside prayer times, dressed modestly.

🚇 A 18-min walk from Wat Phnom

Featured in: Khmer Times

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The other bank

Chroy Changvar Khmer-Chinese Temple

វិហារអ្នកតាចិន ជ្រោយចង្វារ · Chroy Changvar

A Taoist temple of the Chinese-Khmer community on the peninsula where the Mekong meets the Tonle Sap.

Tip: Cross the Chroy Changvar bridge by tuk-tuk: on the far side the city drops a gear and you see the whole Chaktomuk.

🚇 A 24-min walk from Wat Phnom

Featured in: Khmer Times

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Crafts in the open

Wat Phnom Arts and Crafts Center

មជ្ឈមណ្ឌលសិល្បៈវត្តភ្នំ · Daun Penh

A workshop and showroom at the foot of the hill, where silver, lacquer and Khmer carving are worked in the open.

Tip: Looking is free and you can ask prices with no pressure. The best place to learn to spot real lacquer before you buy at the markets.

🚇 You are on the grounds; main gate entrance

Featured in: Khmer Times

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The kite that sings

Khmer Kite Museum

សារមន្ទីរខ្លែងខ្មែរ · Tonle Bassac

A tiny museum devoted to the 'khleng ek', the Khmer singing kite with a bamboo bow that hums in the wind.

Tip: Kite season starts right now with the northeast monsoon winds: between November and January the sky fills up.

🚇 City bus 5, Aeon Mall I stop, then a 12-min walk

Featured in: Khmer Times

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Contemporary Khmer art

Sa Sa Art Projects

សារសារ · Boeung Keng Kang

The country's most influential contemporary Khmer art collective, artist-run, with shows and residencies.

Tip: Open only when there's a show: check their schedule first. Free entry and the artists are usually around to talk.

🚇 City bus 5, Bokor Intersection stop, then a 9-min walk

Featured in: Time Out · Khmer Times

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Curated gallery

The Gallerist

ហ្គាឡឺរីស្ទ · Daun Penh

A commercial gallery for current Cambodian painting and photography, in a restored colonial house.

Tip: You can walk in just to look. If you buy, ask for the artist's certificate: that's what separates a work from a market copy.

🚇 A 6-min walk from the Royal Palace

Featured in: Time Out

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Under the glass dragon

Vattanac Capital Lifestyle Park

សួនវឌ្ឍនៈ · Daun Penh

The park at the foot of Vattanac Tower, the dragon-shaped skyscraper that defines the Phnom Penh skyline.

Tip: The tower lights up at dusk and this is the best spot to photograph the whole building without crossing the avenue.

🚇 A 7-min walk from Central Market

Featured in: Khmer Times

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A temple without tourists

Wat Mongkol Serei Kien Khleng

វត្តមង្គលសិរីគៀនឃ្លាំង · Chroy Changvar

A quiet temple on the Chroy Changvar peninsula, white stupas and a view of where the rivers meet.

Tip: Hardly anyone crosses the bridge: you'll have the place to yourself. Bring water — there's little shade and fewer shops over there.

🚇 Tuk-tuk from Wat Phnom, about 13 min

Featured in: Khmer Times

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The train runs through the yard

Railway Street

ផ្លូវរថភ្លើង · Prampir Makara

The Royal Railway tracks crossing the neighbourhood at street level, with houses, stalls and motorbikes sharing the same strip of dirt.

Tip: The Royal Railway is long-distance, not urban, and passes only a few times a day. Mind yourself on the tracks: there are no barriers.

🚇 Tuk-tuk from Central Market, about 8 min

Featured in: Royal Railway Cambodia

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Where to eat in Phnom Penh: restaurants

The benchmark of Khmer cooking

Malis

ម៉ាលីស · Daun Penh

The house that turned Khmer cooking into fine dining: fish amok, lok lak and royal-family soups served in a courtyard with a pond.

Tip: Book for dinner, especially in dry season, which is now. Order the real amok: steamed in banana leaf, not served as a bowl of curry.

🚇 A 7-min walk from the Independence Monument

Featured in: Asia's 50 Best Discovery · Khmer Times

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A BKK1 classic

Khmer Surin

ខ្មែរសុរិន្ទ្រ · Boeung Keng Kang

A multi-storey wooden house stuffed with antiques, serving Khmer and Thai Isaan food, with a plant-filled terrace.

Tip: Ask for a table upstairs on the terrace: now the rain has stopped it's the best seat in the house. The fish with Kampot pepper is the order.

🚇 A 7-min walk from the Independence Monument

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Amok with an author

The Sugar Palm

ដើមត្នោត · Daun Penh

Kethana's kitchen — the chef who taught David Thompson how to make amok. Home-style Khmer recipes, no concessions to tourist palates.

Tip: First floor of a wooden house on Street 178, easy to walk past. Closed Sundays: don't cross town without checking.

🚇 A 11-min walk from the Royal Palace

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Cambodian produce

Kabbas

កាបាស · Daun Penh

Modern Khmer cooking built on small Cambodian producers: Kampot pepper, Kep salt, local jasmine rice.

Tip: Ask where the pepper comes from: Kampot pepper has held a Geographical Indication since 2010 and is the only one allowed the name.

🚇 A 7-min walk from the Royal Palace

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Training restaurant, still open

Romdeng

រំដេង · Daun Penh

A Friends-International training restaurant: it trains at-risk youth and serves provincial Khmer food, fried tarantulas included.

Tip: Several of the city's social restaurants have closed; this one is still going. There's a pool in the garden and it's one of the few places easy with kids.

🚇 A 21-min walk from Central Market

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Khmer tapas

Friends the Restaurant

ហ្វ្រេន · Daun Penh

Romdeng's older sibling, half a block from the National Museum: Khmer tapas, oddball smoothies and the same training project.

Tip: The perfect lunch between the Palace and the National Museum. Without a booking there's a queue at noon: go at 11:30 or 2.

🚇 A 7-min walk from the Royal Palace

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A veteran social enterprise

Hagar Restaurant

ហាហ្គា · Boeung Keng Kang

An international buffet from a social enterprise employing survivors of trafficking and domestic violence. It has run for decades.

Tip: The midday buffet is the best value in the neighbourhood. You pay in dollars and small change comes in riel: that's normal here.

🚇 A 14-min walk from the Independence Monument

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Inside a MICHELIN Key hotel

Brasserie Louis

ប្រាសសឺរី លូអ៊ី · Daun Penh

The French brasserie inside Rosewood, Phnom Penh's two-MICHELIN-Key hotel. Bistro classics up in Vattanac Tower.

Tip: Cambodia has no MICHELIN restaurant stars, but it does have hotel Keys: this is one of them. Open to the public, you don't need to be a guest.

🚇 A 9-min walk from Central Market

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The highest terrace

Sora Sky Bar

សូរ៉ា · Daun Penh

Rosewood's cantilevered 37th-floor terrace, hanging over nothing with the whole city and the Mekong below.

Tip: Now the rains are over the terrace opens without interruption: the best time of year. Dress code: no flip-flops or singlets.

🚇 A 9-min walk from Central Market

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Cantonese up high

Zhan Liang

ចាន់លាង · Daun Penh

Rosewood's Cantonese table: steamed dim sum, lacquered duck and tea served with the ceremony it deserves.

Tip: The midday dim sum is far cheaper than the evening menu and you order piece by piece.

🚇 A 9-min walk from Central Market

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Colonial, 1929

Restaurant Le Royal

ឡឺរ៉ូយ៉ាល់ · Daun Penh

The dining room of the 1929 Raffles Hotel Le Royal, a MICHELIN Key hotel: Franco-Khmer cooking under ceiling fans and colonial arches.

Tip: Open to non-guests. If you only want to see the hotel, have a drink at the Elephant Bar next door and read the photos on the wall.

🚇 A 10-min walk from Wat Phnom

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History in a glass

Elephant Bar

បារដំរី · Daun Penh

The Raffles' 1929 bar where Jackie Kennedy and half the war press drank. It still pours the house-invented Femme Fatale.

Tip: The afternoon happy hour halves the drinks and is the cheap way into this bar. You don't need to be staying there.

🚇 A 9-min walk from Wat Phnom

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Classic French

Topaz

តូប៉ាស · Tonle Bassac

The city's most serious French table since the nineties: aged meats, a real cellar and textbook service.

Tip: Expensive for Phnom Penh, cheap for what it is. Book, and if you want the lunch menu ask for it: it isn't always on the card.

🚇 City bus 5, Ministry of Agriculture stop, then a 9-min walk

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Franco-Khmer baguette

Khéma Pasteur

ខេម៉ា · Boeung Keng Kang

A French charcuterie and bakery with tables: pâtés, cheeses, baguettes and Cambodia's Franco-Khmer bread legacy.

Tip: Breakfast with a baguette and condensed-milk coffee costs little and explains half of Cambodian history. Opens early.

🚇 A 8-min walk from the Independence Monument

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On Post Office Square

Khéma La Poste

ខេម៉ា ឡាប៉ុស · Daun Penh

Khéma's branch on the colonial Post Office square, one of the best-preserved French ensembles in the city.

Tip: Sit outside and look at the yellow 1890 Post Office, still working. Best early, before the heat.

🚇 A 5-min walk from Wat Phnom

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Light Khmer

Eleven One Kitchen BKK

អេលេវេនវ័ន · Boeung Keng Kang

Healthy Khmer cooking with garden vegetables and lighter takes on lok lak and amok. A BKK1 reference.

Tip: A genuinely good vegetarian option, not just rice. There's a garden: now the rain has stopped, ask for an outside table.

🚇 City bus 5, Ministry of Agriculture stop, then a 11-min walk

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A Russian Market stop

Eleven One Kitchen TTP

អេលេវេនវ័ន · Toul Tom Poung

The Russian Market branch on Street 123: the same garden-led Khmer cooking, with the craft district all around.

Tip: The best lunch a few steps from the Russian Market, where eating well is hard. Walk on to the silk shops afterwards.

🚇 City bus 5, Toul Tom Poung Market stop, then a 11-min walk

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Neighbourhood grill

Sovanna BBQ

សុវណ្ណា · Boeung Keng Kang

An open-air Khmer grill, loud and full of Cambodians: charcoal meat, beer on ice and plastic tables until late.

Tip: You order by tray and share. Draught beer comes by the pitcher and costs cents: ask for 'draft'. Dollars accepted.

🚇 A 6-min walk from the Independence Monument

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The sibling next door

Sovanna II BBQ

សុវណ្ណា ២ · Boeung Keng Kang

The grill's second site, metres from the original. They opened it because the first one couldn't cope.

Tip: If the first is full, walk thirty paces. Note: the original site called Sovanna I has closed, so don't look for it.

🚇 A 6-min walk from the Independence Monument

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Hand-pulled noodles

Chinese Noodle Restaurant

មីទាញចិន · Boeung Keng Kang

Hand-pulled noodles and dumplings from the northern Chinese community, made in full view on Monivong.

Tip: Cheap, fast and no English menu: point at what your neighbour is eating. Cash, and riel works better.

🚇 A 16-min walk from the Independence Monument

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The Khmer breakfast

Kuy Teav Chan

គុយទាវចាន់ · Prampir Makara

Kuy teav, the rice-noodle soup Cambodia has for breakfast: pork broth, fried shallot and lime, served from dawn.

Tip: Go before 9: the good broth runs out. Add the lime, chilli and sugar from the tray yourself; nobody will season it for you.

🚇 A 16-min walk from Central Market

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Sixties nostalgia

Khmer Noodle 1960s

មីខ្មែរ ១៩៦០ · Toul Tom Poung

A Khmer noodle house channelling 1960s Phnom Penh, with furniture and crockery from the golden age.

Tip: A good stop between Tuol Sleng and the Russian Market. Order num banh chok if they have it: breakfast noodles with fish curry.

🚇 City bus 5, American Intercon School stop, then a 3-min walk

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A family recipe

3-Generation Khmer Noodle

មីខ្មែរបីជំនាន់ · Toul Tom Poung

Three generations of one family making the same noodle broth. Khmer food with no design and no concessions.

Tip: No English menu and none needed: you order kuy teav, end of story. Opens early, closes when the broth runs out.

🚇 City bus 5, American Intercon School stop, then a 4-min walk

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Terrace over the Tonle Sap

Bopha Phnom Penh (Titanic)

បុប្ផាភ្នំពេញ · Daun Penh

The Riverside's showiest Khmer restaurant: carved nagas, a terrace over the Tonle Sap and apsara dance some nights.

Tip: Now the rain has stopped the outdoor terrace is the only table to ask for. Check which nights have dancing before booking.

🚇 A 9-min walk from Wat Phnom

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Dumplings on 308

Mama Wong's

ម៉ាម៉ាវង់ · Tonle Bassac

Chinese dumplings and noodles with a Phnom Penh accent, on Street 308, the liveliest in the near south.

Tip: On the corner of the Bassac Lane alley: eat here, then drink next door without taking transport.

🚇 A 8-min walk from the Independence Monument

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Wood-fired pizza

Piccola Italia Da Luigi

ភីកូឡាអ៊ីតាលី · Tonle Bassac

Wood-fired Neapolitan pizza made by Italians, on the same Street 308 as the bars.

Tip: The pavement tables fill first and can't be booked: arrive at 6:30pm or wait on your feet.

🚇 A 8-min walk from the Independence Monument

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Tacos at the Russian Market

Mexicano

ម៉ិចស៊ីកាណូ · Toul Tom Poung

Tacos and quesadillas in the heart of the Russian Market district, one of Cambodia's few honest Mexicans.

Tip: A good stop after the market. There's another branch on the Riverside if you're on that side of town.

🚇 City bus 5, Toul Tom Poung Market stop, then a 11-min walk

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Why it's the Russian Market

Irina's Russian Hut

អ៊ីរីណា · Toul Tom Poung

Pelmeni, borscht and vodka in the district everyone calls the Russian Market, though the name dates from the Soviet eighties.

Tip: The market is called 'Russian' because Soviet expats shopped there in the eighties: its Khmer name is Psar Toul Tom Poung.

🚇 City bus 5, Toul Tom Poung Market stop, then a 9-min walk

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Kerala in BKK1

Taste Budz

ធេសបាត់ · Boeung Keng Kang

South Indian cooking from Kerala: huge dosas, thalis and coconut curry, in the middle of BKK1.

Tip: The midday vegetarian thali is one of the cheapest, fullest lunches in the city's expensive district.

🚇 A 6-min walk from the Independence Monument

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Neighbourhood dosas

Dosa Corner

ដូសាខនើ · Boeung Keng Kang

A tiny dosa and idli place on Pasteur street, open for years and always full of regulars.

Tip: Almost everything is vegetarian and costs a couple of dollars. If you don't know what to order, masala dosa never fails.

🚇 A 4-min walk from the Independence Monument

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Facing the river

Hummus House

ហាំម៉ូស · Daun Penh

Levantine cooking on Sisowath Quay: hummus, falafel and fresh bread, the river right in front.

Tip: The pavement tables look straight at the Tonle Sap. Order the sharing platter: it feeds three and costs like one.

🚇 A 8-min walk from Wat Phnom

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Everyday dim sum

Dim Sum Emperors

ឌីមសាំ · Toul Kork

A Cambodian dim sum chain open morning to night, with trolleys, steam and whole families on Sundays.

Tip: Cheap, air-conditioned and perfect for the hottest part of the day. There are several branches: this one is in Toul Kork.

🚇 A 24-min walk from Wat Phnom

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A stall with tables

Mr Mab

មីស្ទើម៉ាប់ · Toul Tom Poung

Khmer street food with tables, on Street 123: skewers, fried rice and lok lak at stall prices.

Tip: One of the few places in the district where you eat well for under three dollars. Open late.

🚇 City bus 7, Dubai KTV stop, then a 12-min walk

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Own vegetable patch

Farm to Table

ហ្វាមធូធេបល · Boeung Keng Kang

A house with a dirt garden, a wood oven and its own vegetable patch, for seasonal Cambodian produce.

Tip: Hidden at the end of a lane: look for the wooden gate. The garden is mostly open-air, so this is the time of year to come.

🚇 City bus 5, Ministry of Agriculture stop, then a 9-min walk

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Open until late

Intégrité

អាំងតេក្រីតេ · Toul Tom Poung

A neighbourhood restaurant and bar on Street 450, Franco-Khmer cooking, open until two in the morning.

Tip: This is where the night ends in Toul Tom Poung. Note: TINI, the neighbouring Street 450 cafe, is permanently closed.

🚇 City bus 5, Toul Tom Poung Market stop, then a 7-min walk

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Wine by the glass

Open Wine

អូផឹនវ៉ាញ · Daun Penh

A wine shop with a kitchen on Street 240: hundreds of labels, cheese and the city's best by-the-glass list.

Tip: Buy in the shop and drink it at the table for a small corkage: far cheaper than ordering off the list.

🚇 A 6-min walk from the Royal Palace

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Pavement bistro

Bistrot Langka

ប៊ីស្ត្រូ លង្កា · Boeung Keng Kang

A neighbourhood French bistro beside Wat Langka, with a chalkboard of daily dishes and pavement tables.

Tip: The board changes daily and is cheaper than the fixed menu: always ask what's on the board.

🚇 A 4-min walk from the Independence Monument

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Buffet and apsara dance

Tonle Bassac II

ទន្លេបាសាក់ ២ · Meanchey

A Khmer banquet palace with a giant buffet and classical dance: this is how Cambodians do weddings and parties.

Tip: It's huge and not intimate: you come for the show and the variety, not for refined cooking. Book if you come as a group.

🚇 City bus 7, Chbar Ampov Bus Terminal stop, then a 11-min walk

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Lower Mekong recipes

La' Baab

ឡាបាប · Daun Penh

Lower Mekong cooking: river fish, riverbank herbs and recipes almost nobody serves in a restaurant.

Tip: Ask which fish is fresh that day: with the river dropping now, it changes week to week. It's above a pharmacy, easy to miss.

🚇 A 8-min walk from Central Market

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Forest spices

Kravanh

ក្រវាញ · Daun Penh

Khmer cooking from the Cardamom mountains, with forest spices and provincial dishes that never reach the Riverside.

Tip: 'Kravanh' means cardamom. Order something with prahok if you dare: the fermented fish paste that underpins everything.

🚇 A 10-min walk from Central Market

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Sourdough in Phnom Penh

Pelican Food Company

ភេលីខេន · Boeung Keng Kang

A bakery-deli with sourdough, pierogi and pies, one of the few places making real bread in the city.

Tip: Bread comes out in the morning and sells out: go before noon. The best buy for a picnic in the riverside park.

🚇 A 14-min walk from the Independence Monument

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Another training restaurant still going

Lotus Blanc

ផ្កាឈូកស · Meanchey

A training restaurant from the NGO Pour un Sourire d'Enfant, teaching cooking and service to youngsters who lived off the dump.

Tip: It's out of the centre, near the old Steung Meanchey dump: go by tuk-tuk and book, as they work with groups.

🚇 Tuk-tuk from the Olympic Stadium, about 14 min

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A traders' breakfast

Yum Cha Dim Sum

យាំម៉ចា · Daun Penh

Cantonese dim sum steps from Central Market, in a huge room where the district's traders have breakfast.

Tip: Opens at 6am: the perfect breakfast before doing Central Market, which starts early.

🚇 A 5-min walk from Central Market

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Broth from five

Uy Kuy Teav

អ៊ុយគុយទាវ · Boeung Keng Kang

An old-school kuy teav place, broth on the boil from five in the morning and a neighbourhood crowd.

Tip: Ask for 'kuy teav sach chrouk' (with pork) and pair it with condensed-milk coffee: that's how Phnom Penh has breakfast.

🚇 City bus 5, Ministry of Agriculture stop, then a 10-min walk

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The national breakfast

Bai Sach Chrouk stall

បាយសាច់ជ្រូក · Boeung Keng Kang

Grilled pork and rice, Cambodia's national breakfast: coconut-marinated pork, broken rice and a bowl of broth on the side.

Tip: It costs a dollar or two and is served 6 to 10am only. Bring riel: stalls can't break large notes.

🚇 City bus 5, Eton House International School stop, then a 5-min walk

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Specialty coffee in Phnom Penh

Cambodian beans roasted here

Feel Good Café

ហ្វីលហ្គុដ · Daun Penh

Cambodia's flagship specialty coffee brand: it roasts beans from Mondulkiri and Ratanakiri, grown in-country.

Tip: Most people don't know Cambodia grows coffee. Order the Mondulkiri filter and ask which farm: they'll tell you.

🚇 A 12-min walk from Central Market

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Belgian bakery

The Shop Toul Kork

ហាងនំ · Toul Kork

A Belgian-founded bakery and cafe, with tarts, quiches and bread that have set the neighbourhood standard for two decades.

Tip: There are several branches: this is Toul Kork, the quietest. The Street 240 one suits you better if you're downtown.

🚇 Tuk-tuk from Wat Phnom, about 14 min

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The baguette legacy

Eric Kayser Riverside

អេរិក កៃស៊ែរ · Daun Penh

A French boulangerie on Sisowath Quay: Cambodia's baguette is a direct legacy of the protectorate, and here it's taken seriously.

Tip: Buy a baguette and watch how Cambodians use it: stuffed with pâté, cucumber and chilli, and called num pang.

🚇 A 19-min walk from Wat Phnom

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Before the Russian Market

Eric Kayser Toul Tom Poung

អេរិក កៃស៊ែរ · Toul Tom Poung

The branch in the craft district, good for breakfast before diving into the Russian Market maze.

Tip: The Russian Market gets going at 7 and winds down around 5: eat here early and go in while it's still cool.

🚇 City bus 5, Toul Tom Poung Market stop, then a 6-min walk

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Training cafe, still open

Connecting Hands Training Cafe

ខាហ្វេបណ្តុះបណ្តាល · Daun Penh

An NGO training cafe for women in vulnerable situations: coffee, cakes and simple lunches steps from the Palace.

Tip: Several of the city's social projects have closed in recent years; this one is still standing on Street 178.

🚇 A 8-min walk from the Royal Palace

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A social enterprise with a cafe

Daughters of Cambodia Visitor Centre

កូនស្រីកម្ពុជា · Toul Tom Poung

A cafe and shop run by an NGO employing women who have left sexual exploitation. The spa and boutique are upstairs.

Tip: Go up to the first floor even if you're only having coffee: the clothes and bags are made by the women in the programme.

🚇 City bus 5, Toul Tom Poung Market stop, then a 10-min walk

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Fair trade

YEJJ Café

យេជ · Toul Tom Poung

A pioneering fair-trade cafe in the Russian Market district, with vegetarian food and Cambodian beans.

Tip: On the market corner with air conditioning: the best refuge when the market gets unbearably hot.

🚇 City bus 5, Toul Tom Poung Market stop, then a 8-min walk

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Neighbourhood specialty

La Chronique

ឡាក្រូនិក · Toul Tom Poung

A specialty coffee shop on Street 135 working with beans roasted in Phnom Penh and its own pastry.

Tip: Opens early and is one of the few places where you can order a filter coffee and be understood exactly.

🚇 City bus 5, Toul Tom Poung Market stop, then a 7-min walk

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Rescue cats

Ministry of Cat

ក្រសួងឆ្មា · Toul Tom Poung

A rescue-cat cafe on Street 442: real adoptions, homemade cake and a dozen cats sleeping on you.

Tip: Closed Mondays. You take your shoes off and wash your hands before entering the cat room.

🚇 City bus 7, AMK Micro Finance stop, then a 5-min walk

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Brunch on Street 240

Enso Café

អេនសូ · Daun Penh

A Melbourne-style cafe on Street 240, the pleasantest downtown street to walk, with brunch and decent flat whites.

Tip: Street 240 is full of design shops and galleries: have breakfast here and walk the whole block.

🚇 A 9-min walk from the Royal Palace

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The chain that beat Starbucks

Brown Coffee BKK1

ប្រោន · Boeung Keng Kang

The Cambodian chain that beat Starbucks at home: local beans, careful design and branches across the city.

Tip: Order the 'Khmer coffee': strong black coffee with condensed milk over ice, the way the whole country drinks it.

🚇 A 5-min walk from the Independence Monument

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Quiet Toul Kork

Brown Coffee Toul Kork

ប្រោន · Toul Kork

The Toul Kork branch, a low-rise residential district of embassies where locals come to study and work.

Tip: Toul Kork is where Cambodia's middle class lives: worth the walk to see a Phnom Penh with no tourists at all.

🚇 A 24-min walk from Wat Phnom

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Coffee and soup, together

Tun Chhoel Kuy Teav & Coffee

ទូនឈួល · Toul Tom Poung

A neighbourhood stall where condensed-milk coffee is served alongside kuy teav, as Cambodian custom demands.

Tip: Khmer coffee is 'kaafé tuk doh ko' and arrives with three fingers of condensed milk at the bottom: stir before you drink.

🚇 City bus 5, Toul Tom Poung Market stop, then a 4-min walk

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Pavement coffee

Café 99 Toul Sangkae

ខាហ្វេ៩៩ · Russey Keo

A pavement coffee stall in the north of the city, plastic chairs, bagged ice and genuinely local prices.

Tip: Iced coffee here costs about 2,000 riel: half a dollar. Ask for it 'tuk doh ko' if you want condensed milk.

🚇 Tuk-tuk from Wat Phnom, about 10 min

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Juice squeezed to order

Pursat Orange Juice stand

ទឹកក្រូចពោធិ៍សាត់ · Daun Penh

A stand squeezing Pursat oranges to order, fruit piled up on the Riverside pavement.

Tip: Ask for 'tuk krauch' and watch them squeeze it: if they add ice, ask for none. Bagged factory ice is safe; hand-chipped, less so.

🚇 A 12-min walk from Wat Phnom

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Cambodian flavours

J.J Ice Cream

ការ៉េមជេជេ · Boeung Keng Kang

A local ice cream shop with Cambodian flavours: durian, young coconut, green mango and Kampong Speu palm sugar.

Tip: Kampong Speu palm sugar has held a Geographical Indication since 2010, like Kampot pepper. Order that flavour.

🚇 A 20-min walk from the Independence Monument

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Baking with a purpose

Bloom Café

ប្លូម · Daun Penh

A cafe and patisserie training young women in baking. The animal-shaped cupcakes are its signature.

Tip: Two blocks from Central Market and a good stop with kids: low tables and few steps.

🚇 A 20-min walk from Central Market

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Wifi that works

Joma Bakery Café

ចូម៉ា · Toul Tom Poung

A Southeast Asian chain with bread, bagels and fair-trade coffee, and wifi that actually works.

Tip: A good plan B if you need to work: sockets, air conditioning and big tables. Mobile data beats wifi almost everywhere in the city.

🚇 City bus 5, Toul Tom Poung Market stop, then a 9-min walk

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A pause inside the museum

The Museum Café

ខាហ្វេសារមន្ទីរ · Daun Penh

The National Museum courtyard cafe, under the trees with the museum's red walls behind.

Tip: You can use the cafe without paying museum admission. Now the rain has stopped, the courtyard tables are the ones to take.

🚇 A 6-min walk from the Royal Palace

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Beside the National Library

Café Amazon National Library

ខាហ្វេអាម៉ាហ្សូន · Daun Penh

A branch of the Thai chain beside the 1924 National Library, a little-visited high-ceilinged colonial building.

Tip: While here, look into the National Library: the Khmer Rouge used it as a pigsty and it lost nearly its whole collection.

🚇 A 9-min walk from Wat Phnom

Featured in: Khmer Times

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Open late

Temple Coffee n Bakery

ទីមផល · Boeung Keng Kang

A Cambodian chain cafe and bakery, open late and full of students with laptops open.

Tip: One block from Wat Langka. Almost every Cambodian chain accepts KHQR QR payment, tourists included.

🚇 A 6-min walk from the Independence Monument

Featured in: Khmer Times

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Before the Palace opens

Alpha Coffee & Bakery

អាល់ហ្វា · Daun Penh

A Cambodian cafe steps from the Royal Palace, good for an eight o'clock coffee before the gates open.

Tip: The Palace opens at 8 and closes 11 to 2: eat here at 7:30 and go in on opening, before the heat and the groups.

🚇 A 6-min walk from the Royal Palace

Featured in: Khmer Times

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Franco-Khmer patisserie

Koffee Café & Patisserie

ខហ្វី · Daun Penh

A Franco-Khmer patisserie by Central Market, with éclairs, mille-feuille and condensed-milk coffee.

Tip: The natural stop when you leave Central Market on the east side. There are air-conditioned tables inside: useful at noon.

🚇 A 6-min walk from Central Market

Featured in: Khmer Times

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Khmer sweet bread

Apsara Bakery & Café

អប្សរា · Toul Kork

A northwest neighbourhood bakery with Khmer sweet bread, num pang and iced coffee at local prices.

Tip: Ask for num pang pâté: the stuffed baguette Cambodians eat standing up for under a dollar.

🚇 Tuk-tuk from Wat Phnom, about 22 min

Featured in: Khmer Times

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The bubble tea boom

KOI Thé Toul Kork

ខូអាយ · Toul Kork

Bubble milk tea from the Taiwanese chain, the drink that took over Phnom Penh among the under-thirties.

Tip: Ask for 30% sugar: the default is brutal. This, not coffee, is what young Cambodians drink.

🚇 Tuk-tuk from Wat Phnom, about 13 min

Featured in: Khmer Times

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Gelato by the market

Bingo Gourmand Ice Cream & Coffee

ប៊ីងហ្គោ · Toul Tom Poung

A neighbourhood ice cream and coffee shop by the Russian Market, with artisanal gelato and pavement tables.

Tip: The perfect reward after haggling at the market. Now the rain has stopped, the outside tables are the ones to ask for.

🚇 City bus 7, Dubai KTV stop, then a 4-min walk

Featured in: Khmer Times

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Shopping in Phnom Penh: where to shop

Art deco, 1937

Central Market (Psar Thmey)

ផ្សារធំថ្មី · Daun Penh

The yellow art deco dome of 1937, one of the world's largest, with four wings packed with silver, watches and fabric.

Tip: Always haggle: the first price is usually triple. Mind your bag in the crowded aisles, where most theft happens.

🚇 You are on the grounds; main gate entrance

Featured in: Khmer Times · Phnom Penh Post

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Silk and crafts

Russian Market (Psar Toul Tom Poung)

ផ្សារទួលទំពូង · Toul Tom Poung

The craft and silk market par excellence: a low-ceilinged maze of carvings, lacquer, silver and clothes from the country's factories.

Tip: There is no official Khmer silk authenticity seal: the test is the feel, and a burnt thread that smells of hair. Always ask whether it's silk or polyester, and ask to see the reverse.

🚇 City bus 5, Toul Tom Poung Market stop, then a 7-min walk

Featured in: Khmer Times · WIPO

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A Cambodian market

Psar Orussey

ផ្សារអូរឫស្សី · Prampir Makara

The market Cambodians shop at, not tourists: three floors of food, clothes and hardware without a single postcard.

Tip: It's chaotic and tight and that's the point. The upper food floor is where you see the real Cambodia.

🚇 A 15-min walk from Central Market

Featured in: Khmer Times

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Mekong fish

Psar Kandal

ផ្សារកណ្ដាល · Daun Penh

A fresh food market two blocks from the river: Mekong fish, herbs, prahok and seasonal fruit.

Tip: Go before 9am, when the fish arrives. Prahok, the fermented fish paste, is sold by the kilo here.

🚇 A 12-min walk from the Royal Palace

Featured in: Khmer Times

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The old market

Psar Chas (Old Market)

ផ្សារចាស់ · Daun Penh

The old market in the north of the centre, narrow lanes and food stalls, the least touristy in the old quarter.

Tip: At night the surrounding streets fill with food stalls: the district's informal night market.

🚇 A 8-min walk from Wat Phnom

Featured in: Khmer Times

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The BKK1 market

Psar Boeung Keng Kang

ផ្សារបឹងកេងកង · Boeung Keng Kang

The embassy district's market: fruit, flowers and prepared food, cleaner and tidier than the big ones.

Tip: A good first market if you've never been in an Asian one: small, twenty minutes end to end and nobody chases you.

🚇 City bus 5, Eton House International School stop, then a 5-min walk

Featured in: Khmer Times

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Eating on mats

Phsar Reatrey Night Market

ផ្សាររាត្រី · Daun Penh

The Riverside night market: clothes, souvenirs and a food court where you eat sitting on mats.

Tip: Open Friday to Sunday from 5pm. Now the rains are over it runs every night without cancellations.

🚇 A 9-min walk from Wat Phnom

Featured in: Khmer Times

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Food trucks by the Bassac

Khmer StrEAT Night Market

ផ្សាររាត្រីកោះនរា · Koh Norea, Chbar Ampov

Koh Norea's new night market, with food trucks, live music and a Bassac view. Where young people go out.

Tip: It's open-air: the good season starts right now and runs to March. Bring loose riel for the small stalls.

🚇 Tuk-tuk from the Royal Palace, about 14 min

Featured in: Khmer Times

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Clothing wholesale

Olympic Market

ផ្សារអូឡាំពិក · Prampir Makara

The wholesale clothing market beside the stadium: traders from half the country stock up here.

Tip: Much of the clothing is genuine surplus from the Cambodian factories that sew for global brands. Check the labels.

🚇 A 9-min walk from the Olympic Stadium

Featured in: Khmer Times

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No tourists

Psar Deoum Kor

ផ្សារដើមគរ · Toul Kork

A large local market west of the centre, with flowers, provincial fruit and very few foreigners.

Tip: This is the seasonal fruit market: pomelo and persimmon are starting now. Try the Koh Trung pomelo, GI-protected since 2018.

🚇 A 20-min walk from the Olympic Stadium

Featured in: Khmer Times · WIPO

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Dried fish and noodles

Psar Chbar Ampov

ផ្សារច្បារអំពៅ · Chbar Ampov

The market on the far side of the Monivong bridge, known for dried fish stalls and dawn num banh chok.

Tip: You cross the Monivong bridge: ten minutes by tuk-tuk. Go at dawn, which is when it makes sense.

🚇 City bus 1A, Chbar Ampov Market stop, then a 2-min walk

Featured in: Khmer Times

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The everyday shop

Psar Toul Kork

ផ្សារទួលគោក · Toul Kork

A clean, manageable residential market where you see a middle-class Cambodian family's daily shop.

Tip: If you want to learn Khmer herbs before cooking or ordering in a restaurant, this is the market.

🚇 Tuk-tuk from Wat Phnom, about 12 min

Featured in: Khmer Times

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Craft with a traceable origin

Wat Than Artisans

សិប្បករវត្តធំ · Boeung Keng Kang

A workshop and shop inside a temple compound, where artisans with disabilities work silk, silver and wood.

Tip: You can watch the loom working: the best way to learn to spot real Khmer silk before buying at the Russian Market.

🚇 City bus 5, Ministry of Agriculture stop, then a 4-min walk

Featured in: Khmer Times

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Handwoven silk

Watthan Artisans Cambodia

សិប្បករវត្តធំ · Daun Penh

The same project's downtown shop: handwoven silk, bags and silver objects made by artisans with disabilities.

Tip: Prices are fixed and there's no haggling: in exchange you know who made each piece. One block from the National Museum.

🚇 A 7-min walk from the Royal Palace

Featured in: Khmer Times

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Upcycled with a purpose

Friends 'n' Stuff

ហ្វ្រេនអិនស្ដាហ្វ · Daun Penh

The Friends-International shop: upcycled objects, clothes and crafts made by the programme's families.

Tip: Right next to Friends the Restaurant: eat there and buy here. All proceeds go to the same training programme.

🚇 A 7-min walk from the Royal Palace

Featured in: Friends-International

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Recycled fishing nets

Smateria

ស្មាធេរៀ · Boeung Keng Kang

Bags and backpacks made from fishing nets and reclaimed plastic, sewn by women in Phnom Penh workshops.

Tip: They're light and take no suitcase space: the city's most practical souvenir. Fixed price, no haggling.

🚇 A 7-min walk from the Independence Monument

Featured in: Time Out

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Silver from casings

Rajana Association

រចនា · Daun Penh

Cambodian fair trade since 1995: silver recycled from bullet casings, Kampot pepper and local coffee.

Tip: Here you buy Kampot pepper with a verifiable designation of origin, not market pepper that could be from anywhere.

🚇 A 7-min walk from the Independence Monument

Featured in: Khmer Times · WIPO

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Fixed price, clear origin

Rajana Crafts Toul Tom Poung

រចនា · Toul Tom Poung

The branch in the craft district, same fair-trade standards and fixed prices.

Tip: Compare with the Russian Market three blocks away: you pay a bit more here and know exactly what you're buying.

🚇 City bus 5, American Intercon School stop, then a 9-min walk

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Designer jewellery

Garden of Desire

សួនបំណង · Daun Penh

Cambodian designer jewellery on Street 240, hand-worked silver and design that looks to Angkor without copying it.

Tip: Ask for the piece's certificate. If you buy silver in a market, weigh it: real silver is much heavier than it looks.

🚇 A 9-min walk from the Royal Palace

Featured in: Time Out

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The reference bookshop

Monument Books

ម៉ូនុយម៉ិនបុកស៍ · Boeung Keng Kang

The country's best bookshop: Cambodian history, translated Khmer literature, maps and a huge children's section.

Tip: If you're going to Tuol Sleng or Choeung Ek, buy a book on the period first: it changes the visit entirely.

🚇 A 7-min walk from the Independence Monument

Featured in: Khmer Times

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The country's first mall

AEON Mall 1

ផ្សារទំនើបអ៊ីអន · Tonle Bassac

Cambodia's first Japanese mall, from 2014: air conditioning, a supermarket, an ice rink and a cinema.

Tip: The basement supermarket is the best place to buy packaged Kampot pepper and palm sugar to take home.

🚇 City bus 5, Aeon Mall I stop, then a 3-min walk

Featured in: Khmer Times

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The biggest of the three

AEON Mall 2 Sen Sok

ផ្សារទំនើបអ៊ីអន ២ · Sen Sok

The largest of the city's three AEONs, in the northwest, with a water park and a giant food court.

Tip: It's far: half an hour by tuk-tuk from the centre. With kids and heat, the water park justifies it.

🚇 Tuk-tuk from Wat Phnom, about 21 min

Featured in: Khmer Times

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On the way to Choeung Ek

AEON Mall 3 Mean Chey

ផ្សារទំនើបអ៊ីអនមានជ័យ · Mean Chey

The third and newest, in the south of the city, on the way to the Choeung Ek Killing Fields.

Tip: A good air-conditioned stop on the way back from Choeung Ek, 15 minutes west by tuk-tuk.

🚇 Tuk-tuk from the Independence Monument, about 35 min

Featured in: Khmer Times

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Roof terrace facing the dome

Sorya Center Point

ផ្សារទំនើបសុរិយា · Daun Penh

The classic downtown mall, next to Central Market: eight floors and a roof terrace facing the art deco dome.

Tip: Go up to the top-floor terrace: the only place you see Central Market's yellow dome from above, and it's free.

🚇 A 4-min walk from Central Market

Featured in: Khmer Times

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Luxury under the dragon

Vattanac Capital Lifestyle Mall

វឌ្ឍនៈ · Daun Penh

The luxury brands at the foot of the dragon-shaped skyscraper, the skyline's most recognisable building.

Tip: Go in even if you don't buy: the tower lobby has a marble staircase worth the photo, and the air conditioning is free.

🚇 A 7-min walk from Central Market

Featured in: Khmer Times

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Khmer food court

Exchange Square Mall

អ៊ិចឆេញស្វែរ · Daun Penh

The Cambodia Securities Exchange building, with shops, offices and a food court serving real Khmer food.

Tip: The basement food court is cheap, clean and serves genuine Khmer dishes: the best midday option around here.

🚇 A 8-min walk from Central Market

Featured in: Khmer Times

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Beside the stadium

City Mall

ផ្សារទំនើបស៊ីធីម៉ល · Prampir Makara

The mall beside the Olympic Stadium, with a supermarket, cinema and a longstanding local clientele.

Tip: Pair it with the Olympic Stadium three minutes' walk away: see Vann Molyvann's architecture, then cool down.

🚇 A 5-min walk from the Olympic Stadium

Featured in: Khmer Times

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A Cambodian-owned mall

Chip Mong 271 Mega Mall

ជីបម៉ុង ២៧១ · Boeung Tumpun, Meanchey

A Cambodian-owned mall on Boulevard 271, with a big supermarket, cinema and food court.

Tip: Chip Mong is a Cambodian group, not a foreign one. Almost every till takes KHQR: the easiest way to pay without carrying cash.

🚇 City bus 7, Boeung Trabek Pumping Station stop, then a 6-min walk

Featured in: Khmer Times

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A BKK1 classic

Pencil Department Store

ផ្សារទំនើបផេនស៊ីល · Boeung Keng Kang

An old-school Cambodian department store in the heart of BKK1, with a supermarket downstairs.

Tip: The basement supermarket is where expats shop: a good place to stock up if you're renting an apartment.

🚇 A 11-min walk from the Independence Monument

Featured in: Khmer Times

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Terraces over the Bassac

The Bridge Lifestyle Mall

ដឹប្រ៊ីដ · Tonle Bassac

A modern mall by the Koh Pich bridge, with restaurants and terraces facing the Bassac.

Tip: The upstairs restaurant terraces come back into use now the rains have ended: a good sunset plan.

🚇 City bus 5, Aeon Mall I stop, then a 10-min walk

Featured in: Khmer Times

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Cambodian cosmetics

Bodia Nature

បូឌីយ៉ា · Daun Penh

Cambodian natural cosmetics with local ingredients: Kampot pepper, coconut oil and Mekong herbs.

Tip: It's light, fine for hand luggage in small sizes, and one of the few souvenirs people actually use.

🚇 A 7-min walk from the Royal Palace

Featured in: Time Out

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