📍 Tunis tourist map

139 places · MENA's 50 Best, 50 Best Discovery, Time Out and whatever's blowing up on TikTok · 5 routes · Medina, Carthage & Sidi Bou Saïd

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Things to do in Tunis: the full list behind the map

This interactive map of Tunis (Tunisia) brings together 139 hand-picked places: 43 attractions, 48 restaurants, 24 cafés and 24 shops. It also includes 5 walking routes with their stops in order. For every place you get what it is, a practical tip and how to get there by public transport. It is free, works on your phone and needs no sign-up.

· Curated by the HOLASIM team · How we make the maps

Walking routes in Tunis

Tap a route to see it drawn on the map, stop by stop.

The UNESCO Medina on foot

8 stops · 3 h · walking · 8 stops

  1. Bab El Bhar, the Gate of France
  2. Souk El Attarine, the perfumers
  3. Mosquée Zitouna, the heart
  4. Panorama Café, tea with a view
  5. Souq des Chechias, red felt
  6. Dar El Jeld, the yellow door
  7. Dar Ben Abdallah, palace museum
  8. Tourbet El Bey, royal mausoleum
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Art deco Ville Nouvelle & Belvédère

7 stops · 3 h · walking + tram · 7 stops

  1. Théâtre Municipal, a 1902 gem
  2. Cathédrale Saint-Vincent-de-Paul
  3. Marché Central, new olives
  4. Chez Slah, the fish lunch
  5. Jardin Habib Thameur, shade
  6. Parc du Belvédère, the Koubba
  7. Jardin Japonais, a zen finish
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Archaeological Carthage by TGM

8 stops · 5 h · TGM + walking · 8 stops

  1. Tophet of Salammbô, Punic stelae
  2. Punic ports, the hidden fleet
  3. Carthage National Museum
  4. Acropolium, cathedral on Byrsa
  5. Thermes d'Antonin, facing the sea
  6. Roman villas and their mosaics
  7. Roman theatre, acoustics intact
  8. Citernes de La Malga, empty
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Sidi Bou Saïd in blue and white

7 stops · 3 h · walking · 7 stops

  1. Café des Nattes, pine-nut tea
  2. Dar El-Annabi, panoramic terrace
  3. Galerie Hédi Turki, Tunisian painting
  4. Dar Zarrouk, clifftop terraces
  5. Café Sidi Chabaane, the sunset
  6. Ennejma Ezzahra, the Baron's palace
  7. Marina, a September swim
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La Goulette & La Marsa: fish and sea

8 stops · 6 h · TGM · 8 stops

  1. Fort de La Goulette, the Karraka
  2. Marché Municipal, catch of the day
  3. Chez Mohsen, the brik king
  4. La Spigola, Sicilian fish
  5. Le Golfe, MENA's 50 Best
  6. Marché Central La Marsa, figs
  7. Cafés Bondin, Tunisian roast
  8. Plage de La Marsa, warm sea
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Things to do in Tunis: top attractions

UNESCO World Heritage

Médina de Túnez

المدينة العتيقة · Medina

Eight centuries of alleys, souks and palaces in the best-preserved Arab labyrinth in North Africa.

Tip: Enter via Bab El Bhar at 9am: souks are opening, tour groups haven't arrived and the light hits the vaults just right.

🚇 Place de Barcelone (Métro léger 1-2-4-5)

Featured in: UNESCO

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Olive Tree Mosque

Mosquée Zitouna

جامع الزيتونة · Medina

The Olive Tree Mosque, the spiritual heart of Tunis since 698 AD and the exact centre of the Medina.

Tip: Non-Muslims can access the courtyard only (8am-noon, closed Friday). Best view is from the Panorama Café rooftop.

🚇 Place de Barcelone (Métro léger 1-2-4-5)

Featured in: UNESCO

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Roman mosaics

Musée national du Bardo

المتحف الوطني بباردو · Le Bardo

The world's greatest collection of Roman mosaics, inside a jaw-dropping beylical palace.

Tip: Reopened in 2023 after years shut: go Tue-Sat 9.30am-4.30pm and start with the Virgil room, upstairs to the left.

🚇 Le Bardo (Métro léger 4)

Featured in: UNESCO

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Seaside Roman baths

Thermes d'Antonin

حمامات أنطونيوس · Carthage

The largest Roman baths in Africa, 15-metre columns planted right in front of the Mediterranean.

Tip: One Carthage ticket (12 DT) covers all 7 sites the same day: start here early and save Byrsa for sunset.

🚇 Carthage Hannibal (TGM)

Featured in: UNESCO

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Punic acropolis

Colline de Byrsa

تل بيرصة · Carthage

Carthage's acropolis: Punic ruins, a 360° view over the gulf and Dido's founding myth on one hill.

Tip: Climb to the lookout behind the cathedral: from there you see the Punic ports and Cap Bon on clear days.

🚇 Carthage Dermech (TGM)

Featured in: UNESCO

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Byrsa museum

Musée National de Carthage

المتحف الوطني بقرطاج · Byrsa

Punic stelae, funerary masks and the priestess sarcophagus, with the whole gulf as a backdrop.

Tip: It sits atop Byrsa: do it last so you can walk down to Dermech and catch the TGM without rushing.

🚇 Carthage Dermech (TGM)

Featured in: UNESCO

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Military harbours

Ports puniques de Carthage

الموانئ البونية · Salammbô

The two circular lagoons where Carthage hid 220 warships from Rome. Naval archaeology at its purest.

Tip: Free and nearly empty: circle the lagoon on the east side at dusk, when flamingos drop into the lake.

🚇 Carthage Salammbô (TGM)

Featured in: UNESCO

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Punic sanctuary

Tophet de Salammbô

توفة صلامبو · Salammbô

Carthage's most haunting Punic sanctuary: hundreds of votive stelae among fig trees and silence.

Tip: Take your phone torch down into the crypt: the lower stelae are the oldest, from the 8th century BC.

🚇 Carthage Salammbô (TGM)

Featured in: UNESCO

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Roman theatre

Théâtre Romain de Carthage

المسرح الروماني · Carthage

A restored 2nd-century theatre that still packs 7,000 seats every summer for the Carthage Festival.

Tip: Sit in the top row and clap: the original acoustics bounce the echo back from the stage. Local guide trick.

🚇 Carthage Hannibal (TGM)

Featured in: UNESCO

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Roman cisterns

Citernes de La Malga

صهاريج المالقة · Carthage

Twenty-four giant Roman vaults that watered half of Carthage. Almost nobody visits them.

Tip: They sit in a residential street with no signage: look for the green gate on rue Dag Hammarskjöld and walk in.

🚇 Carthage Hannibal (TGM)

Featured in: Guía local

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Roman amphitheatre

Amphithéâtre de Carthage

المدرج الروماني · Carthage

The arena where Saint Perpetua died, today an empty, photogenic stone oval among olive trees.

Tip: It's a 10-minute walk from the cisterns: do both together, they're on the same Carthage ticket.

🚇 Carthage Hannibal (TGM)

Featured in: UNESCO

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Cathedral & concerts

Cathédrale Saint-Louis (Acropolium)

الأكروبوليوم · Byrsa

An 1890 Byzantine-Moorish cathedral crowning Byrsa hill, now a concert hall with killer acoustics.

Tip: Check the classical programme: October concerts are held in the afternoon, sun pouring through the stained glass.

🚇 Carthage Dermech (TGM)

Featured in: Guía local

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Blue & white village

Sidi Bou Saïd

سيدي بو سعيد · Sidi Bou Saïd

The blue-and-white clifftop village: bougainvillea, studded doors and the gulf right below you.

Tip: Arrive before 10am or after 5pm: in between it fills with coach tours. Rue Habib Thameur is the postcard street.

🚇 Sidi Bou Saïd (TGM)

Featured in: UNESCO

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The Baron's palace

Ennejma Ezzahra (Palais du Baron d'Erlanger)

النجمة الزهراء · Sidi Bou Saïd

The palace of the baron who painted Sidi Bou Saïd blue: Arab courtyards, gardens and an Arab music museum.

Tip: It's below the village on the road to the sea: walk down from the square and taxi back. Closed Mondays.

🚇 Sidi Bou Saïd (TGM)

Featured in: Guía local

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House museum

Dar El-Annabi

دار العنابي · Sidi Bou Saïd

An 18th-century mansion open to visitors: tiled courtyards, a panoramic terrace and mint tea.

Tip: Pay 5 DT and the top terrace gives you the best village shot without queueing at Café des Nattes.

🚇 Sidi Bou Saïd (TGM)

Featured in: Guía local

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Marina & sunset

Marina de Sidi Bou Saïd

مرسى سيدي بو سعيد · Sidi Bou Saïd

The marina at the foot of the cliff: sailboats, fishermen and the best sunset on the gulf.

Tip: Take the 300 steps down from the village at 6pm in September: the sea is still 25°C and swimmable.

🚇 Sidi Bou Saïd (TGM)

Featured in: Guía local

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Green lung

Parc du Belvédère

حديقة البلفيدير · Belvédère

Tunis's 100 green hectares: eucalyptus, the Ottoman Koubba and a view over the lake from the top.

Tip: Walk up to the 17th-century Koubba on the east path: it's the only free lookout over Lake Tunis.

🚇 Palestine (Métro léger 2-4)

Featured in: Guía local

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Zen garden

Jardin Japonais de Tunis

الحديقة اليابانية · El Menzah

A Japan-gifted zen garden inside the Belvédère: koi pond, red bridges and complete silence.

Tip: Open 9am-5pm and barely known: go on a weekday morning and the pond is all yours.

🚇 Palestine (Métro léger 2-4)

Featured in: Guía local

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Family outing

Zoo du Belvédère

حديقة الحيوانات · Belvédère

Tunis's historic zoo inside the park, the classic Tunisian family weekend outing.

Tip: Token 1 DT entry. Combine it with the park and bring water: little shade in the big-cat section.

🚇 Palestine (Métro léger 2-4)

Featured in: Guía local

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Science for kids

La Cité des Sciences

مدينة العلوم · El Menzah

Planetarium, hands-on exhibits and workshops: the best rainy-day plan with kids.

Tip: Planetarium sessions run on a fixed timetable: check the day's grid on arrival and book yours first.

🚇 Cité Sportive (Métro léger 2)

Featured in: Guía local

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Gate of France

Bab El Bhar (Porte de France)

باب البحر · Medina

The arch separating the Medina from the colonial city: the exact border between two different Tunises.

Tip: It's the city's meeting point: step through and 40 metres later you're in the perfumers' souk.

🚇 Place de Barcelone (Métro léger 1-2-4-5)

Featured in: Guía local

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Palace museum

Dar Ben Abdallah

دار بن عبد الله · Medina

An 18th-century palace turned museum of popular arts and traditions: scenes of old Tunisian life.

Tip: The Carrara marble courtyard is the shot: go mid-morning, when the sun comes in at an angle.

🚇 Place de Barcelone (Métro léger 1-2-4-5)

Featured in: Guía local

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Royal mausoleum

Tourbet El Bey

تربة الباي · Medina

The Husainid beys' mausoleum: green domes, Italian marble and tombs topped with carved turbans.

Tip: It's in the southern Medina, off the tourist loop: pair it with Dar Ben Abdallah, two blocks away.

🚇 Place de Barcelone (Métro léger 1-2-4-5)

Featured in: Guía local

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City museum

Palais Kheireddine (Musée de la Ville)

قصر خير الدين · Medina

Reformist Kheireddine's palace, now the city museum with models and photos of 1900s Tunis.

Tip: The upstairs room has a full model of the Medina: study it before you dive into the souks.

🚇 Bab Saadoun (Métro léger 3-4-6)

Featured in: Guía local

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Orange tree courtyard

Dar Othman

دار عثمان · Medina

A 16th-century Renaissance facade and a hidden orange-tree courtyard: the southern Medina's most photogenic palace.

Tip: Free entry in office hours: ask at the door and they'll let you into the courtyard no problem.

🚇 Place de Barcelone (Métro léger 1-2-4-5)

Featured in: Guía local

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Beylical residence

Dar Hammouda Pacha

دار حمودة باشا · Medina

A 17th-century beylical residence with a colonnaded gallery and hand-carved stucco, now a cultural space.

Tip: It adjoins the Hammouda Pacha mosque: look up at the octagonal minaret, the only one in Tunis.

🚇 Bab Saadoun (Métro léger 3-4-6)

Featured in: Guía local

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Movie-famous hammam

Hammam d'Halfaouine

حمام الحلفاوين · Halfaouine

The hammam Tunisian cinema made famous, in the Medina's most local, least touristy quarter.

Tip: Men in the morning, women in the afternoon: bring your own towel and 10 DT cash for the kessa scrub.

🚇 Bab Saadoun (Métro léger 3-4-6)

Featured in: Guía local

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1814 mosque

Mosquée Saheb Ettabaâ

جامع صاحب الطابع · Halfaouine

Tunis's last great beylical mosque (1814), Carrara marble and a lace-like minaret.

Tip: It's on Halfaouine square, the one from the film: have tea at Café Errabt opposite and study the minaret.

🚇 Bab Saadoun (Métro léger 3-4-6)

Featured in: Guía local

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Triple gate

Bab Saadoun

باب سعدون · Bab Saadoun

A 19th-century triple gate stranded on a roundabout: the most accidentally photographed monument in Tunis.

Tip: Step off the Métro léger and it's right there: the best gate to start the Medina from the north.

🚇 Bab Saadoun (Métro léger 3-4-6)

Featured in: Guía local

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Almohad gate

Bab Jedid

باب جديد · Medina

An almost intact 1276 Almohad gate, horseshoe arch and the blacksmiths' quarter right behind it.

Tip: Walk through to the Souk des Forgerons: the clang of metal at 10am is the Medina's best soundtrack.

🚇 Place de Barcelone (Métro léger 1-2-4-5)

Featured in: Guía local

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Avenue cathedral

Cathédrale Saint-Vincent-de-Paul

كاتدرائية القديس منصور · Ville Nouvelle

An 1897 neo-Byzantine cathedral planted on Avenue Bourguiba, facing the Ibn Khaldoun statue.

Tip: Open 8-12 and 3-6: go in for the organ, then sit out on the avenue and watch the evening promenade.

🚇 République (Métro léger 3-4)

Featured in: Guía local

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1902 art nouveau

Théâtre Municipal de Tunis

المسرح البلدي · Ville Nouvelle

A 1902 art nouveau gem with a sculpted white plaster facade: the prettiest building on the avenue.

Tip: Lit up at night it's another thing: walk by after 8pm and shoot it from the opposite pavement.

🚇 République (Métro léger 3-4)

Featured in: Guía local

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Meeting point

Statue d'Ibn Khaldoun

تمثال ابن خلدون · Ville Nouvelle

The father of sociology, Tunis-born, keeping watch over the liveliest avenue in North Africa.

Tip: It's the city's kilometre zero: five minutes on foot from here to Bab El Bhar and the Medina.

🚇 République (Métro léger 3-4)

Featured in: Guía local

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French garden

Jardin Habib Thameur

حديقة الحبيب ثامر · Ville Nouvelle

A French garden with a pond and jacarandas downtown: the green break between the avenue and the Medina.

Tip: Take the east-side benches mid-afternoon: shade, wifi from the cafe next door and zero tourists.

🚇 République (Métro léger 3-4)

Featured in: Guía local

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Ottoman fortress

Fort de La Goulette (Karraka)

برج كراكة · La Goulette

A 16th-century Ottoman fortress that guarded the lake entrance: stone, cannons and harbour air.

Tip: Five minutes from the TGM station: see it before sitting down for fish on Avenue Franklin Roosevelt.

🚇 La Goulette (TGM)

Featured in: Guía local

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Gulf aquarium

Musée océanographique de Salammbô

المتحف البحري · Salammbô

A historic aquarium in a seafront fort: turtles, morays and the Tunisian Mediterranean explained.

Tip: Cheap and perfect with kids between the Tophet and the Punic ports: all three are 10 minutes apart on foot.

🚇 Carthage Salammbô (TGM)

Featured in: Guía local

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Mosaics in situ

Villas romaines de Carthage

الفيلات الرومانية · Carthage

A Roman residential quarter with mosaics in situ and the House of the Cryptoporticus facing the sea.

Tip: The horse mosaic is at the back on the right, barely signposted: ask the warden and he'll point it out.

🚇 Carthage Hannibal (TGM)

Featured in: UNESCO

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New marina

Marina de Gammarth

مرسى قمرت · Gammarth

The gulf's newest marina: yachts, a seafront promenade and restaurants with their feet in the water.

Tip: It packs out Friday and Saturday nights: for a quiet walk go at sunset on a weekday.

🚇 Taxi amarillo o Bolt desde La Marsa

Featured in: Guía local

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City beach

Plage de La Marsa

شاطئ المرسى · La Marsa

Tunis's city beach: pale sand, a corniche to walk and a sea still warm in late September.

Tip: The TGM drops you literally on the sand. In September the water is around 25°C: the best swimming month.

🚇 La Marsa Plage (TGM)

Featured in: Guía local

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Island in the lake

Fort Santiago de Chikly

برج شكلي · Lac de Tunis

A 16th-century Spanish fort on an island in Lake Tunis, ringed by flamingos and a bird reserve.

Tip: Only reachable by boat on an organised visit: otherwise watch the flamingos from the Lac 1 shore at dusk.

🚇 Taxi amarillo hasta el puerto del Lac 1

Featured in: Guía local

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Hidden medersa

Medersa Slimania

المدرسة السليمانية · Medina

A 1754 Quranic school with a green-tiled courtyard, hidden metres from the booksellers' souk.

Tip: It's on Souk El Kachachine: the door is discreet, push and ask, they nearly always let you see the courtyard.

🚇 Place de Barcelone (Métro léger 1-2-4-5)

Featured in: Guía local

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Ottoman shrine

Zaouïa de Sidi Mahrez

زاوية سيدي محرز · Bab Souika

The shrine of Tunis's patron saint, white Ottoman domes that look transplanted from Istanbul.

Tip: View the domes from Bab Souika square: there are seven and the ensemble is unique in North Africa.

🚇 Bab Saadoun (Métro léger 3-4-6)

Featured in: Guía local

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Arabic calligraphy

Centre National d'Art de la Calligraphie

مركز فن الخط · Halfaouine

Contemporary Arabic calligraphy in a restored palace: workshops, shows and a courtyard of silence.

Tip: Ask about open workshops: sometimes a master will let you try the reed pen for a few dinars.

🚇 Bab Saadoun (Métro léger 3-4-6)

Featured in: Guía local

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Where to eat in Tunis: restaurants

No.46 MENA's 50 Best

Le Golfe

La Marsa Corniche

La Marsa's fish institution since 1955 and the only Tunisian entry on the MENA's 50 Best 2026 list.

Tip: Book days ahead: order the catch of the day by weight and the mechouia salad to start, the best on the coast.

🚇 La Marsa Plage (TGM)

Featured in: MENA's 50 Best

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Palace fine dining

Dar El Jeld

Rue Dar El Jeld · Medina

Tunisian fine dining in an 18th-century palace with a marble courtyard and a legendary yellow door.

Tip: Dinner only and booking required: order the lamb couscous tfaya and sit in the courtyard, not upstairs.

🚇 Place de Barcelone (Métro léger 1-2-4-5)

Featured in: 50 Best Discovery

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Terrace over the Zitouna

El Ali

Rue Jamaa Ez Zitouna · Medina

Restaurant and cultural cafe in a 17th-century house, terrace facing the Zitouna minaret.

Tip: Head straight to the roof and start with brik à l'œuf: the best Medina view with actual good food.

🚇 Place de Barcelone (Métro léger 1-2-4-5)

Featured in: TripAdvisor Travellers' Choice

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Restored caravanserai

Fondouk El Attarine

Souk El Attarine · Medina

A former perfumers' caravanserai reborn: market-driven Tunisian cooking under 18th-century vaults.

Tip: Lunch is a 25-30 DT set menu: order the merguez ojja and a pomegranate juice, it's the season.

🚇 Place de Barcelone (Métro léger 1-2-4-5)

Featured in: Guía local

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No-menu fish

Chez Slah

Rue Pierre de Coubertin · Ville Nouvelle

A 1972 fish bistro where Tunis lawyers lunch: no menu, just whatever came in from the port.

Tip: Arrive before 1pm or there's no table. Let them bring the cold starters and order the grilled grouper.

🚇 République (Métro léger 3-4)

Featured in: TripAdvisor Travellers' Choice

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Home cooking

Dar Slah

Rue de la Kasbah · Medina

Genuinely homestyle Tunisian cooking in a converted dar: what a Medina family eats on a Sunday.

Tip: Lunch only: order Friday's fish couscous and the molokhia if it's on that day.

🚇 Place de Barcelone (Métro léger 1-2-4-5)

Featured in: Guía local

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Courtyard with music

Dar Belhadj

Rue des Tamis · Medina

A tiled courtyard, live musicians at weekends and a properly fiery prawn ojja.

Tip: Live malouf Thursdays and Fridays from 8pm: book a ground-floor table near the musicians.

🚇 Place de Barcelone (Métro léger 1-2-4-5)

Featured in: Guía local

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Cheap lablabi

Restaurant El Abed

Rue de la Kasbah · Medina

A Medina canteen where the lablabi arrives steaming and a full meal costs under 15 DT.

Tip: Order lablabi with egg and extra harissa: it's a morning or midday dish, never dinner.

🚇 Place de Barcelone (Métro léger 1-2-4-5)

Featured in: Guía local

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Local grill

Mechwi Bab El Fella

باب الفلة · Bab El Fella

A neighbourhood grill where Tunisians eat mechoui and merguez on tabouna bread, zero tourist tables.

Tip: Pick your meat at the counter, they weigh it and grill it there: get merguez plus lamb chops.

🚇 Bab Alioua (Métro léger 1-5)

Featured in: Guía local

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Cult ojja

Ojja Chouchou

Bab Souika

Tunis's ojja temple: eggs, tomato, harissa and merguez spitting in a clay pan.

Tip: Open late and packed after the cinema: order ojja merguez with a cold beer and bread to mop up.

🚇 Bab Saadoun (Métro léger 3-4-6)

Featured in: TikTok viral

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Grandma's cooking

Ommok Sannefa

Ville Nouvelle

Grandma-style Tunisian cooking named after a folk tale: kamounia, molokhia and tajine like at home.

Tip: The menu changes daily with the market: ask what tajine they have before ordering anything else.

🚇 République (Métro léger 3-4)

Featured in: Guía local

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Historic brasserie

Le Grand Café du Théâtre

Avenue Habib Bourguiba · Ville Nouvelle

Art nouveau cafe-brasserie beside the theatre: tuna-and-harissa crêpes and the avenue's best people-watching.

Tip: Order the cheese, tuna and harissa crêpe: the local classic, under 10 DT on the terrace.

🚇 République (Métro léger 3-4)

Featured in: Guía local

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French bistro

Le Carnot

Rue de Rome · Ville Nouvelle

A long-running French bistro downtown, white tablecloths and a serious Tunisian wine list.

Tip: Try a Mornag red or a Magon: Tunisian wines are the trip's surprise and they pour them well here.

🚇 République (Métro léger 3-4)

Featured in: Guía local

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Power lunch

La Salle à Manger

Rue Imam Sahnoun · Mutuelleville

The elegant French-leaning table where Tunis does business: impeccable produce, old-school service.

Tip: Weekday lunch has a set business menu: book, the small room fills with embassy crowds.

🚇 Taxi amarillo desde République

Featured in: Guía local

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Modern bistro

Le Zink

Rue Salah Ben Mahmoud · El Menzah

Modern bistro with seriously good burgers and bowls: the El Menzah creative crowd's canteen.

Tip: Weekend brunch is the move: get there before noon or you're waiting half an hour at the door.

🚇 Taxi amarillo o Bolt desde República

Featured in: TripAdvisor Travellers' Choice

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Turkish grill

Saray

Rue El Hadi Chaker · Lafayette

A Turkish grill with live coals, a lahmacun station and mezze that never stops coming. Trending since 2024.

Tip: Order the adana kebab and künefe for dessert: share it, it feeds three. Best after 9pm.

🚇 Palestine (Métro léger 2-4)

Featured in: TripAdvisor Travellers' Choice

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The brik king

Chez Mohsen

Avenue Franklin Roosevelt · La Goulette

La Goulette's brik king: paper-thin pastry, a running yolk and tuna, fried to order for decades.

Tip: Order brik à l'œuf and eat it standing at the counter with lemon: 3 DT and the best bite on the coast.

🚇 La Goulette (TGM)

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Sicilian fish

La Spigola

Avenue Franklin Roosevelt · La Goulette

Grilled fish and squid-ink pasta on La Goulette's Sicilian avenue. Hands-on, with white wine.

Tip: Pick your fish from the ice at the door and ask for it salt-baked: pay by weight, never fails.

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Late-night shellfish

Le Chalet

Avenue Franklin Roosevelt · La Goulette

A terrace over the promenade where La Goulette eats shellfish until midnight at weekends.

Tip: Friday and Saturday nights get a queue: book or arrive at 7.30pm, just as the terrace opens.

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A 1959 classic

Lucullus

Avenue Habib Bourguiba · La Goulette

An absolute La Goulette classic since 1959: complète de poisson, seafood spaghetti and zero trends.

Tip: Order the 'complète de poisson': soup, brik, fish and dessert at a fixed price. The local Sunday ritual.

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Chef's bistro

La Bohème, Bistro by Axel D

La Goulette

A chef-driven seafront bistro that shook up La Goulette: local produce, French technique.

Tip: Short menu that changes weekly: go with the daily special and order the fig dessert.

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No-frills fish

Le Café Vert

La Goulette

A seafront dining room where La Goulette lunches on fish with no ceremony and local prices.

Tip: Lunch has a fixed menu with brik, fish and salad: the avenue's best value by far.

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Gulf view

Villa Didon

Byrsa · Carthage

A designer terrace atop Byrsa hill with the whole gulf in front: the best-view dinner in Tunis.

Tip: Book an outdoor table for 6.30pm in September: you eat with sunset over Sidi Bou Saïd behind you.

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Clifftop terraces

Dar Zarrouk

Rue Hédi Zarrouk · Sidi Bou Saïd

Stepped terraces on the blue-and-white cliff, Mediterranean cooking and the sea 100 metres below.

Tip: Ask for the lower terrace, not the top one: it opens straight onto the gulf with no railing in the way.

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Sea balcony

Au Bon Vieux Temps

Rue Hédi Zarrouk · Sidi Bou Saïd

A blue house with a Mediterranean balcony: wood-fired pizza and Tunisian mains for 40 years.

Tip: Arrive 20 minutes before sunset and ask for the corner table: the only one with a clean gulf view.

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Fish at the marina

Le Pirate

Marina · Sidi Bou Saïd

Fresh fish at the foot of the cliff, with boats moored three metres from your table.

Tip: Take the steps down from the village and lunch here: the best excuse not to climb back up at noon.

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Carthage seafood

Neptune

Carthage Dermech

Carthage's seafront seafood house, home to the gulf's best grilled lobster tail.

Tip: Five minutes on foot from the Thermes d'Antonin: the logical lunch after the ruins.

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House-made pasta

Le Gavroche

Carthage Dermech

Carthage's Italo-French table with house-made pasta and a terrace under the pines. Weekend booking essential.

Tip: Order the ravioli of the day: made in the morning and they run out. Save room for the tiramisu.

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Gulf sushi

Saiko No

La Marsa

Proper sushi in La Marsa: gulf fish cut with Japanese technique and a short omakase on Thursdays.

Tip: Sit at the bar and order the gulf sea-bream nigiri: you won't eat that anywhere else.

🚇 La Marsa Plage (TGM)

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Couscous only

L'Arbre à Couscous

La Marsa

Couscous only, in ten versions: fish, lamb, octopus, vegetables. Undisguised Tunisian cooking.

Tip: The fish couscous is the one to order, and it sells out on Fridays: book or go at 12.30pm.

🚇 La Marsa Plage (TGM)

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Waterwheel garden

Safsaf

Rue du Saule · La Marsa

A restaurant built around a 17th-century Andalusian waterwheel: garden, willows and Sunday couscous.

Tip: The waterwheel courtyard is the reason to come: ask for an outdoor table and the midday lamb couscous.

🚇 La Marsa Plage (TGM)

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Breton galettes

Breizh Bistrot

La Marsa

A genuine Breton crêperie in La Marsa: buckwheat galettes, cider and a brunch that packs out every Saturday.

Tip: Saturday brunch runs 10am-2pm with no bookings: arrive at 10 sharp or wait outside.

🚇 La Marsa Plage (TGM)

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Ramen in La Marsa

Origami

La Marsa

Minimalist Japanese in La Marsa: ramen, gyoza and a counter where the cooking happens in front of you.

Tip: The tonkotsu ramen runs until the broth is gone: after 9pm there may be none left.

🚇 La Marsa Plage (TGM)

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Craft bagels

The Bagel Shop

La Marsa

House-baked bagels, cream cheese and salmon in the heart of La Marsa: the neighbourhood's trending breakfast.

Tip: They go fast: get there before 11am for the salmon one. There are tables out on the pedestrian street.

🚇 La Marsa Plage (TGM)

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Real Thai

Ayutthya

La Marsa Corniche

La Marsa's Thai kitchen: pad thai, proper curries and adjustable heat. Rare and very good in Tunis.

Tip: Ask for the green curry 'Tunisian spicy' if you can take heat: they calibrate it to local palates and mean it.

🚇 La Marsa Plage (TGM)

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Table on the rocks

Le Rocher de Gammarth

Gammarth

A table on the Gammarth rocks: grilled fish, waves breaking below and postcard sunsets.

Tip: Book for 6.30pm in September: you eat as the sun drops behind the cape and the terrace is still warm.

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Seafront fish

Les Ombrelles

Gammarth

A Gammarth fish classic almost in the water: white parasols, linen and sea.

Tip: Order the baked royal sea bream with potatoes and preserved lemon: the dish people come back for.

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Terrace over the beach

Le Grand Bleu

Gammarth

Fish and shellfish on the Gammarth coast, terrace hanging over the beach and old-school service.

Tip: Weekend lunch is the moment: garlic prawns and fish by weight, then walk down to the beach.

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Rooftop cocktails

Tangerine Rooftop

Gammarth

A rooftop with cocktails, a DJ and gulf views: where Gammarth's weekend nights begin.

Tip: Go at sunset before the music gets loud: between 6 and 8pm the whole gulf turns orange.

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Beach club

La Villa Beach

Gammarth

A beach club with loungers, Mediterranean food and late music: Tunisian summer stretched into September.

Tip: In September the pool is still open and the sea is 25°C: on weekdays there's no cover and plenty of space.

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Lakeside bistro

Le Bistrot

Rue du Lac Turkana · Les Berges du Lac

A Lac 1 international bistro where corporate Tunis lunches: short menu, solid produce, fast service.

Tip: There's a three-course weekday lunch deal: the fastest way to eat well in the lake district.

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Palm-shaded terrace

Restaurant Biwa

Rue du Lac Biwa · Les Berges du Lac

Fish, oven pizza and a palm-shaded terrace on Lac 1: the place the whole neighbourhood returns to.

Tip: The back terrace is quieter than the dining room: book there and order the salt-baked sea bass.

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Lebanese mezze

Comptoirs de Beyrouth

Les Berges du Lac

Lebanese mezze, shawarma and flawless hummus on Lac 1: the embassy district's favourite Arab table.

Tip: Order mezze to share plus the mixed grill: with four people it's cheap and it's a feast.

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History on the walls

Chez Nous

Rue de Marseille · Ville Nouvelle

A 1948 institution with walls papered in photos of every artist who ever came through.

Tip: Look at the back wall before sitting: Claudia Cardinale and half of Tunisian cinema history.

🚇 République (Métro léger 3-4)

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Hidden dar

Dar Ali

Medina

A hidden Medina dar mixing Tunisian tradition with burgers: odd on paper, hugely popular in practice.

Tip: The top terrace looks onto the Zitouna minaret and hardly anyone goes up: ask for it when booking.

🚇 Place de Barcelone (Métro léger 1-2-4-5)

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Market cooking

La Maison

Rue Omar Ibn Abi Rabiaa · La Marsa

A converted house in La Marsa with market cooking, an inner garden and a menu that rotates with the season.

Tip: Ask for anything with pomegranate or new-harvest olive oil: September brings the harvest and they use it everywhere.

🚇 La Marsa Plage (TGM)

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Sourdough pizza

Dokana

La Marsa

Sourdough, stone-oven pizza in La Marsa: the pizzeria the neighbourhood became obsessed with.

Tip: Order the merguez-and-harissa pizza: the Tunisian version, absent from the translated menu.

🚇 La Marsa Plage (TGM)

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Pintxos & wine

Lapero Tapas & Pinxtos

La Marsa

Basque pintxos and wine by the glass in La Marsa: standing bar, good noise and the neighbourhood's best happy hour.

Tip: Glass deals run 7-9pm: order the bluefin pintxo, it comes from the gulf and it's the bar's best.

🚇 La Marsa Plage (TGM)

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Specialty coffee in Tunis

Sidi Bou Saïd icon

Café des Nattes

مقهى العلية · Sidi Bou Saïd

Tunisia's most photographed cafe: a blue staircase, floor mats and pine-nut mint tea since 1900.

Tip: Take your shoes off and sit upstairs on the mats: order pine-nut mint tea, not coffee, that's the point.

🚇 Sidi Bou Saïd (TGM)

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Sunset over the gulf

Café Sidi Chabaane

مقهى سيدي الشعبان · Sidi Bou Saïd

Stepped terraces clinging to the cliff, shisha and the blue gulf below: Tunisia's most famous sunset.

Tip: Arrive 45 minutes before sunset and go to the lowest terrace: the only one with no railing in the shot.

🚇 Sidi Bou Saïd (TGM)

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Rooftop over the Zitouna

Panorama Café

Souk El Trouk · Medina

A hidden rooftop above the Turks' souk with the best view of the Zitouna courtyard and minaret.

Tip: It's at 27 Souk Trok, unsigned: climb three flights and the tea costs 4 DT.

🚇 Place de Barcelone (Métro léger 1-2-4-5)

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17th-century cafe

Café El M'rabet

Souk El Trouk · Medina

A 17th-century Ottoman cafe with saints' tombs under the carpets: the Medina's oldest still standing.

Tip: Sit in the columned room and order Turkish coffee with orange blossom: served in copper for 300 years.

🚇 Place de Barcelone (Métro léger 1-2-4-5)

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Souk pit stop

Café Belkadhi

Souk El Trouk · Medina

A cafe-terrace in the heart of the souks looking onto the vaults: the obligatory stop between purchases.

Tip: Order a 'direct' (Tunisian filter coffee) and a date makroudh: 5 DT and exactly the local snack.

🚇 Place de Barcelone (Métro léger 1-2-4-5)

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Specialty in the Medina

El Ênba

Medina

A specialty coffee shop tucked into the Medina: serious espresso and flat whites steps from the Zitouna.

Tip: One of the few Medina spots with real espresso: ask for filter to taste Tunisian beans roasted locally.

🚇 Place de Barcelone (Métro léger 1-2-4-5)

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Avenue terrace

Café de Tunis

Avenue Habib Bourguiba · Ville Nouvelle

The classic avenue terrace where Tunis reads the paper, argues football and drinks coffee, forever.

Tip: Order a 'capucin' (Tunisian cortado) and face the avenue: the best free show downtown.

🚇 République (Métro léger 3-4)

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Trending specialty

Cosmitto Coffee Barcelone

Place de Barcelone · Ville Nouvelle

The specialty chain that took over Tunis: plant milks, iced lattes and wifi that actually works.

Tip: The perfect stop before catching the Métro léger: iced latte with almond milk and plug in your phone.

🚇 Place de Barcelone (Métro léger 1-2-4-5)

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Lakeside brunch

Cosmitto Coffee Lac

Rue du Lac Biwa · Les Berges du Lac

The lakeside branch: big terrace, weekend brunch and Lac 1's default meeting point.

Tip: Sunday brunch starts at 10am and fills up: get there early and ask for an outside table facing the lake.

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La Marsa cold brew

Cosmitto Coffee La Marsa

La Marsa

Specialty coffee in La Marsa with cold brew, house pastries and the neighbourhood's favourite brunch terrace.

Tip: Cold brew with tonic is the secret order: not on the menu but they'll make it if you ask by name.

🚇 La Marsa Plage (TGM)

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Historic roaster

Cafés Bondin

La Marsa

The historic Tunisian roaster turned smoke-free cafe: local beans roasted and poured in the same room.

Tip: Buy half a kilo of Tunisian beans to take home: ground on the spot and the best edible souvenir.

🚇 La Marsa Plage (TGM)

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Latte art & single origin

Barista's Coffee La Marsa

La Marsa

A specialty bar with latte art, single-origin beans and La Marsa's youngest crowd at all hours.

Tip: Ask for the origin of the day: they rotate Ethiopian and Colombian beans and let you taste first.

🚇 La Marsa Plage (TGM)

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Queue-free garden

Le Grand Café Vert

Sidi Bou Saïd

A garden cafe at the entrance to Sidi Bou Saïd, under bougainvillea, no village queues and the same light.

Tip: The alternative when Café des Nattes is mobbed: same mint tea, half the people.

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Own roast

Ben Rahim

Sidi Bou Saïd

A modern coffee shop on the climb into Sidi Bou Saïd: own roast, small terrace and zero coach tourism.

Tip: Stop here off the TGM before climbing to the village: better coffee at half the price.

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Neighbourhood breakfast

Café Journal

La Marsa

A La Marsa neighbourhood cafe: newspaper breakfasts and unhurried lunches under the awnings.

Tip: Order the full Tunisian breakfast: bsissa, new olive oil, tabouna bread and coffee. Under 12 DT.

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V60 pour-over

Coffee Berlin

La Marsa

Nordic-looking specialty in La Marsa: handmade ceramics, V60 pour-overs and pastry of the day.

Tip: Order the V60 with the Ethiopian bean and the cinnamon roll: the combo people cross La Marsa for.

🚇 La Marsa Plage (TGM)

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Market-side cafe

Porto Coffee

La Marsa

A bright cafe metres from La Marsa's central market: good espresso and the best people-watching around.

Tip: Pair it with the central market: buy figs and pomegranate in the morning, then sit here for coffee.

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Tunisian pastry

Gourmandise

Avenue de France · Ville Nouvelle

Tunisia's flagship pastry house: makroudh, baklawa, kaak warka and windows impossible to walk past.

Tip: Get a 250 g mixed box with makroudh and kaak warka: the Tunisian gift that never misses.

🚇 République (Métro léger 3-4)

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Handmade sweets

Pâtisserie Hachicha

Sidi Bou Saïd

Handmade Tunisian sweets on the climb to the blue village: pistachio baklawa and fresh samsa.

Tip: Buy samsa (almond-and-honey triangles) to eat at the lookout: 1 DT each and addictive.

🚇 Sidi Bou Saïd (TGM)

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Seasonal gelato

Parad'Ice La Marsa

La Marsa

A cult artisan gelateria in La Marsa: fig, pomegranate and jasmine sorbets made with seasonal fruit.

Tip: In September the new fig and pomegranate flavours are in: get both in the same cone.

🚇 La Marsa Plage (TGM)

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Sicilian gelato

Foligno Glace Artisanale

La Goulette

A La Goulette Italian gelateria, pure Sicilian heritage: pistachio, stracciatella and giant cones.

Tip: The obligatory stop after fish on the avenue: pistachio is the one to order.

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Hot bambalouni

Café Hadj Amor

Sidi Bou Saïd

A village cafe on Sidi Bou Saïd's square where you eat bambalouni fresh from the fryer, dusted in sugar.

Tip: Bambalouni is eaten standing and instantly, never cold: 1.5 DT and the village's edible symbol.

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Post-Bardo coffee

Brothers Coffee Bardo

Le Bardo

A modern coffee shop two blocks from the Bardo: the decent coffee you need after three hours of mosaics.

Tip: It's on the way to the Métro léger stop: museum, coffee, train back downtown in 20 minutes.

🚇 Le Bardo (Métro léger 4)

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Creative brunch

Le Squat

Les Berges du Lac

A Lac 2 cafe-bistro with a terrace, a long brunch and Tunis's creative scene sitting inside.

Tip: Weekend brunch runs till 3pm: order the eggs benedict with salmon and a cold brew.

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Shopping in Tunis: where to shop

Perfumers' souk

Souk El Attarine

سوق العطارين · Medina

The perfumers' souk: amber vials, orange-blossom water and jasmine since the 13th century, under vaults.

Tip: Ask them to blend a custom scent in a glass vial: around 20 DT and alcohol-free.

🚇 Place de Barcelone (Métro léger 1-2-4-5)

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Handmade chechias

Souq des Chechias

سوق الشواشين · Medina

The souk where red felt chechias are still handmade, a 600-year-old Tunisian craft.

Tip: Ask to see the felt brushing in the back workshop: the step that makes the Tunisian chechia unique.

🚇 Place de Barcelone (Métro léger 1-2-4-5)

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Tailors & embroidery

Souk El Trouk

سوق الترك · Medina

The Turks' souk: tailors, gold embroidery and the staircases that lead to the rooftop cafes.

Tip: Gold-thread embroidery is made to order in 48 hours: get a quote on your first day in town.

🚇 Place de Barcelone (Métro léger 1-2-4-5)

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Berber silver

Souk des Orfèvres

سوق الصاغة · Medina

The goldsmiths' souk: Berber silver, Hands of Fatima and Tunisian filigree sold by weight.

Tip: Silver is sold by weight plus craftsmanship: ask to see the Tunisian state hallmark before paying.

🚇 Place de Barcelone (Métro léger 1-2-4-5)

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Arabic instruments

Souk El Azzafine

سوق العزافين · Medina

The musicians' souk: ouds, darbukas and bendirs made in workshops still open to the street.

Tip: Ask them to play the oud before you buy: the luthiers love to and the difference is obvious.

🚇 Place de Barcelone (Métro léger 1-2-4-5)

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Chaos & haggling

Souk Sidi Boumendil

سوق سيدي بومنديل · Medina

The Medina's cheapest, most chaotic souk: fabric, spices, electronics and Olympic-level haggling.

Tip: Start at a third of the asking price and walk: haggling here is compulsory, not optional.

🚇 Place de Barcelone (Métro léger 1-2-4-5)

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Vintage for 5 dinars

Fripes El Hafsia

الحفصية · Medina

Tunisia's biggest second-hand clothing market: mountains of European fripe and vintage finds for 5 dinars.

Tip: New stock lands on Mondays and that's the day to go: arrive early with small cash.

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1891 market

Marché Central de Tunis

السوق المركزي · Ville Nouvelle

The 1891 central market: gulf fish, mountains of harissa, new olives and seasonal pomegranates.

Tip: Go before 11am and enter via the fish hall: September brings new olives and pomegranate.

🚇 République (Métro léger 3-4)

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Antiques with a story

Ed Dar

Rue Sidi Ben Arous · Medina

Half shop, half museum: antiques, ceramics and Tunisian objects in a 15th-century house.

Tip: Go up to the first floor even if you don't buy: the upstairs room is a free open museum.

🚇 Place de Barcelone (Métro léger 1-2-4-5)

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Ceramics & kilims

Art et Artisanat Amor

Souk El Trouk · Medina

Nabeul ceramics, kilim rugs and hammered copper in one of the souks' most reliable shops.

Tip: Ask for genuine Nabeul ceramics, not the industrial kind: you can tell by the unglazed base.

🚇 Place de Barcelone (Métro léger 1-2-4-5)

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Cult bookshop

Librairie Clairefontaine

Rue d'Alger · Ville Nouvelle

Tunis's best-loved bookshop: French and Arabic stock, a cafe at the back and near-weekly launches.

Tip: Look for the French-language Tunisia section: the country's best photography and archaeology selection.

🚇 République (Métro léger 3-4)

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Art deco arcade

Palmarium

Avenue Habib Bourguiba · Ville Nouvelle

A 1933 art deco shopping arcade on the avenue: a covered passage of shops, cafes and skylight.

Tip: Walk in even if you don't shop: the glass dome and iron staircase are among downtown's finest.

🚇 République (Métro léger 3-4)

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The biggest mall

Tunisia Mall

Les Berges du Lac 2

The country's biggest mall: international brands, a food court, a cinema and real air conditioning.

Tip: The top floor has lake-view terraces: go up at sunset even if you're not eating there.

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Beachside mall

Zéphyr

Avenue Habib Bourguiba · La Marsa

La Marsa's shopping centre, a block from the beach: fashion, a cinema and the terrace where coffee happens.

Tip: Combine it with the beach: the TGM stops 200 metres away and the cinema screens films in original version.

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Tunisian label

Lyoum

Rue El Moez · El Menzah

The Tunisian label that put darija on cotton tees: local-humour basics, made in Tunisia.

Tip: The tees with Tunisian dialect slogans are the souvenir people get: ask for a translation.

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Local concept store

Mooja Store

Rue Salem Bouhajeb · Mutuelleville

A concept store of Tunisian designers: fashion, homeware and contemporary art in one curated space.

Tip: The best place for current Tunisian design instead of tourist crafts: check the ceramics.

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Blown glass

Sadika

Gammarth

Sadika Keskes's blown-glass workshop: unique handmade pieces and a furnace you can visit in Gammarth.

Tip: Ask to see the workshop: if they're blowing you can watch, and seconds sell at half price.

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Bookshop & gallery

Librairie Mille Feuilles

La Marsa Corniche

La Marsa's bookshop and art space: francophone stock, exhibitions and Tunis's most literary crowd.

Tip: Check the exhibitions board on your way in: there's nearly always a free Tunisian photography show.

🚇 La Marsa Plage (TGM)

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Gulf market

Marché Central La Marsa

La Marsa

A neighbourhood market with the best of the gulf: fish, figs, pomegranates and new olives in September.

Tip: Go between 8 and 11am: September brings late-harvest figs and pomegranate at giveaway prices.

🚇 La Marsa Plage (TGM)

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Catch of the day

Marché Municipal La Goulette

La Goulette

La Goulette's fish market: what's landed in the morning is eaten at noon 50 metres away.

Tip: Many restaurants on the avenue will cook fish you buy here: ask what they charge to grill it.

🚇 La Goulette (TGM)

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Loose spices

Le Royaume des Épices

La Marsa

A La Marsa spice shop with artisan harissa, tabil, ras el hanout and loose saffron in glass jars.

Tip: Take tube harissa and ground tabil: under 300 g, cabin-legal and less than 10 DT.

🚇 La Marsa Plage (TGM)

Featured in: Guía local

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Art in Sidi Bou

Galerie Hédi Turki

Sidi Bou Saïd

An art gallery in the blue village with contemporary Tunisian painting and work by its namesake master.

Tip: Free entry and hardly anyone goes in: the best air-conditioned break on the main street.

🚇 Sidi Bou Saïd (TGM)

Featured in: Guía local

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Hammered copper

Maison du Cuivre

La Marsa

A hammered-copper workshop-shop: trays, teapots and lanterns handmade Medina-style, no haggling.

Tip: Prices are fixed and fair: if you want good copper without a half-hour negotiation, this is it.

🚇 La Marsa Plage (TGM)

Featured in: Guía local

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Sweets by weight

Pâtisserie Ezzitouna

Medina

A Medina confectioner where makroudh, zlabia and bouza are sold by weight, the way Tunisians buy them.

Tip: Ask for 200 g of freshly made date makroudh: under 5 DT and Tunisia's national sweet.

🚇 Place de Barcelone (Métro léger 1-2-4-5)

Featured in: Guía local

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