📍 Izmir tourist map

142 places · MICHELIN Türkiye 2026, Gault&Millau Türkiye 2026, local press · no Eater coverage

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Things to do in Izmir: the full list behind the map

This interactive map of Izmir (Turkey) brings together 142 hand-picked places: 48 attractions, 38 restaurants, 30 cafés and 26 shops. It also includes 5 walking routes with their stops in order. For every place you get what it is, a practical tip and how to get there by public transport. It is free, works on your phone and needs no sign-up.

· Curated by the HOLASIM team · How we make the maps

Walking routes in Izmir

Tap a route to see it drawn on the map, stop by stop.

Konak and Kemeraltı

The old centre on foot: the clock, the bazaar, the hans and the synagogues. 2.5 km, half a morning, all flat. · 7 stops

  1. Start here, sea at your back
  2. Kütahya tiles, two minutes
  3. Enter on Anafartalar and get lost
  4. Tea in the 1744 courtyard
  5. The gilded 1597 interior
  6. Bib Gourmand lunch before 12:30
  7. Nine synagogues in a hundred metres
Show route on map

Alsancak and the Kordon

From Pasaport to Alsancak along the water, ending in a meyhane. 3 km, afternoon into night, sunset at 18:15. · 7 stops

  1. Go up to the terrace before walking
  2. The real Kordon starts here
  3. Atatürk on horseback, facing the sea
  4. Sit on the grass by 17:40
  5. A Levantine house, free entry
  6. Alsancak's shopping street
  7. Rakı and meze to close
Show route on map

Karşıyaka and Bostanlı

Ferry across to the other shore: cheese, kumru, sunset benches and the İZBAN back. Half a day. · 7 stops

  1. Cross sitting outside, at the stern
  2. Tea with Konak in view
  3. Boyoz before 11am
  4. Aegean tulum, vacuum packed
  5. Söğüş of tongue, to start
  6. A filter before sunset
  7. Arrive by 17:40 or you'll stand
Show route on map

The old city: Agora, Kadifekale, Asansör

Rome, the fortress and the 1907 lift, top to bottom. Half a day, with a bus up to the castle. · 7 stops

  1. Winter hours: closes at 5:30pm
  2. Seen from outside, still being dug
  3. Bus up, down before dark
  4. €4, Müzekart valid
  5. Free, 08:00 to 24:00
  6. People live here: keep it down
  7. Appointment and ID only
Show route on map

Levantine Bornova

The British merchants' mansions, the student quarter and Izmir's cheapest coffee. Half a day. · 7 stops

  1. 8,500 years, Neolithic houses
  2. A local Sunday, no tourism
  3. Levantine mansion, seen from outside
  4. The one you can walk into
  5. Free, closed Monday and Tuesday
  6. Filter coffee at half the price
  7. Cheap rakı until dawn
Show route on map

Things to do in Izmir: top attractions

The heart of the city

Konak Square

Konak Meydanı · Konak

Izmir's heart: palms, gulls, the Clock Tower and the ferries pulling in a step away.

Tip: Cross to the sea side early: from 5pm to 7pm the square fills with the whole city heading home.

🚇 metro Konak (M1), right outside

Featured in: Plaza central · İzmir Büyükşehir Belediyesi

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The city icon

Izmir Clock Tower

İzmir Saat Kulesi · Konak

The 1901 Ottoman tower with four fountains at its feet: Izmir's official photo souvenir.

Tip: Best light is at sunset with the sea behind it; in the morning the sun hits you head-on.

🚇 metro Konak (M1), a 3-minute walk

Featured in: Monumento histórico 1901

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Kütahya tilework

Konak Mosque (Yalı Camii)

Konak Camii · Konak

A tiny 1755 mosque clad in Kütahya tiles, right beside the clock tower and open to all.

Tip: Shoes off, shoulders and knees covered; steer clear of the five prayer times.

🚇 metro Konak (M1), a 3-minute walk

Featured in: Mezquita otomana 1755

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1890 ironwork over the sea

Konak Pier

Konak Pier · Konak

An 1890 customs house tied to Gustave Eiffel's workshop, now a mall with a terrace over the gulf.

Tip: Go to the top floor: the cafés up there face the sunset over Karşıyaka and charge no entry.

🚇 ferry to Konak, a 8-minute walk

Featured in: Edificio histórico 1890

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The Levantine landing stage

Pasaport Quay

Pasaport Vapur İskelesi · Konak

The 1890 Levantine landing stage where the ferries to Karşıyaka and Bostanlı set off across the gulf.

Tip: The ferry takes the same İzmirim Kart as the metro: it is the cheapest ride in town.

🚇 ferry to Pasaport, right outside

Featured in: Muelle histórico · İZDENİZ

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The sunset promenade

Birinci Kordon

Birinci Kordon · Alsancak

The grassy waterfront strip: bikes, horseless carriages, picnic blankets and a free sunset.

Tip: On 31 October the sun drops at 18:15: come 40 minutes early and sit on the grass by the water.

🚇 ferry to Alsancak, a 4-minute walk

Featured in: Paseo marítimo

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Republic-era landmark

Republic Square & Atatürk Monument

Cumhuriyet Meydanı · Alsancak

Atatürk on horseback facing the sea: Izmir's political postcard and the zero point of the Kordon walk.

Tip: On 29 October and 9 September the square fills with flags: on those days come early.

🚇 ferry to Pasaport, a 3-minute walk

Featured in: Plaza histórica

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The sunset deck benches

Bostanlı Sunset Lounge

Bostanlı Suriçi Sunset Lounge · Karşıyaka

Tilted wooden deck benches facing west: where Izmir goes to watch the sun go down.

Tip: The benches fill up: sunset is 18:15 in late October, so arrive by 17:40 or you'll be standing.

🚇 ferry to Bostanlı, a 7-minute walk

Featured in: Mirador urbano · Karşıyaka Belediyesi

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Gateway to Karşıyaka

Bostanlı Ferry Pier

Bostanlı Vapur İskelesi · Karşıyaka

The ferry terminal facing Bostanlı market: the crossing point back over the bay towards Konak.

Tip: Last ferries run near midnight; check the board at the pier before you cross.

🚇 ferry to Bostanlı, right outside

Featured in: Muelle · İZDENİZ

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Izmir's other shore

Karşıyaka Ferry Pier

Karşıyaka Vapur İskelesi · Karşıyaka

The north-shore pier, with the pedestrian Çarşı fifty metres away and the tram at the door.

Tip: Ferry out, İZBAN back: one card covers both and the transfer is discounted.

🚇 ferry to Karşıyaka, right outside

Featured in: Muelle · İZDENİZ

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A bazaar still working

Kemeraltı Bazaar

Kemeraltı Çarşısı · Konak

A living bazaar since the 1600s over the old harbour: gold, cloth, spice and zero stage set.

Tip: It's on UNESCO's Tentative List, not inscribed: don't look for a World Heritage plaque, there isn't one.

🚇 metro Konak (M1), a 6-minute walk

Featured in: Bazar histórico · Lista Indicativa UNESCO

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A 1744 caravanserai

Kızlarağası Hanı

Kızlarağası Hanı · Kemeraltı

A restored 1744 caravanserai: orange-tree courtyard, hammered copper and tea in tulip glasses.

Tip: The courtyard is free and half-roofed: the best shelter in the bazaar when the rain starts.

🚇 metro Çankaya (M1), a 4-minute walk

Featured in: Han otomano 1744

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A working han

Çakaloğlu Hanı

Çakaloğlu Hanı · Kemeraltı

A 19th-century han with an arcaded gallery and a yard where cloth is still cut and sewn.

Tip: Look up: the first-floor wooden gallery is the best thing here and almost nobody notices it.

🚇 metro Çankaya (M1), a 5-minute walk

Featured in: Han otomano s. XIX

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Vine-shaded courtyard

Abacıoğlu Hanı

Abacıoğlu Hanı · Kemeraltı

A restored courtyard with tables under the vine: the shadiest, calmest han in Kemeraltı.

Tip: Inside is Ayşa Boşnak Börekçisi, a 2026 MICHELIN Bib Gourmand, and it takes no reservations.

🚇 metro Çankaya (M1), a 6-minute walk

Featured in: Han otomano restaurado

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1597, a surprise interior

Hisar Mosque

Hisar Camii · Kemeraltı

Izmir's largest and oldest mosque (1597), with a gilded interior nobody sees coming.

Tip: Free entry; headscarves are lent at the door for women and bags provided for shoes.

🚇 metro Çankaya (M1), a 3-minute walk

Featured in: Mezquita otomana 1597

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The bazaar's fountain

Şadırvanaltı Mosque

Şadırvanaltı Camii · Kemeraltı

A 1636 mosque built around its ablution fountain, and the informal clock the whole bazaar runs on.

Tip: When the shopkeepers leave their counters and head this way, it's 1pm and time to eat.

🚇 metro Çankaya (M1), right outside

Featured in: Mezquita otomana 1636

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Nine synagogues, one block

Havra Street & Synagogue Square

Havra Sokağı ve Havralar Meydanı · Kemeraltı

The fish street and the square packing nine Sephardic synagogues within a hundred metres.

Tip: The synagogues aren't walk-in: book ahead with Izmir's Jewish community and bring your passport.

🚇 metro Çankaya (M1), a 3-minute walk

Featured in: Patrimonio sefardí

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16th-century Sephardic

Signora Giveret Synagogue

Sinyora Giveret Sinagogu · Kemeraltı

A 16th-century synagogue with a central bimah, pure Sephardic plan, deep inside the bazaar.

Tip: No entry without an appointment and ID: write to the community several days ahead.

🚇 metro Çankaya (M1), a 4-minute walk

Featured in: Sinagoga s. XVI

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The most ornate one

Bikur Holim Synagogue

Bikur Holim Sinagogu · Kemeraltı

The most ornate of Izmir's synagogues, 18th century, with columns and a sky-blue vault.

Tip: Cover shoulders and knees; men cover their heads too and kippot are handed out at the door.

🚇 metro Çankaya (M1), a 5-minute walk

Featured in: Sinagoga s. XVIII

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Rome beneath Izmir

Agora of Smyrna

Smyrna Agorası · Konak

The 2nd-century Roman agora, its basilica and vaulted cellars still standing under the city.

Tip: Winter hours from 1 October: 08:30 to 17:30, ticket desk until 17:00. Entry €6; the Müzekart is valid.

🚇 metro Çankaya (M1), a 6-minute walk

Featured in: Ören yeri · Kültür ve Turizm Bakanlığı

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The view that explains it

Kadifekale (Mount Pagos)

Kadifekale · Konak

The Hellenistic fortress on Mount Pagos, 186 m above sea level, with the whole gulf below.

Tip: Go up by bus or taxi, never on foot up the slopes; come down before dark, the road is unlit.

🚇 bus 33 Kadifekale–Konak from the square

Featured in: Fortaleza helenística

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An active dig site

Ancient Theatre of Smyrna

Smyrna Antik Tiyatrosu · Konak

The Roman theatre where tradition says Polycarp died, under excavation on the Kadifekale slope.

Tip: Still being expropriated and dug: you see it from outside and from Kadifekale, it's not a formal visit.

🚇 bus 33 Kadifekale–Konak, get off before the castle

Featured in: Yacimiento arqueológico

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Rome with traffic under it

Kızılçullu Aqueducts

Kızılçullu Su Kemerleri · Buca

Two Roman aqueducts straddling the Meles stream, with Buca traffic running right under the arches.

Tip: A photo stop, not a stroll: there's no pavement along the stream and cars move fast.

🚇 İZBAN train to Şirinyer, a 11-minute walk

Featured in: Acueducto romano

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The original Smyrna

Old Smyrna Mound (Bayraklı Höyük)

Bayraklı Höyüğü · Bayraklı

Where Archaic Smyrna stood from the 9th century BC: the Athena temple and the city's oldest houses.

Tip: It's a mound with foundations, not a staged archaeological park: come for the history, not the set.

🚇 İZBAN train to Bayraklı, a 7-minute walk

Featured in: Yacimiento arqueológico

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8,500 years of Izmir

Yeşilova Mound

Yeşilova Höyüğü · Bornova

Izmir's oldest settlement, 8,500 years old, with reconstructed Neolithic houses on site.

Tip: The clay and Neolithic-bread workshops are for kids and need booking: don't just turn up on a Saturday.

🚇 metro Bölge (M1) then a 25-minute walk or a taxi

Featured in: Parque arqueológico · İzmir Büyükşehir Belediyesi

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Built 1907, still free

Historic Elevator (Asansör)

Tarihi Asansör · Karataş

The lift Nesim Levi built in 1907 to bridge the 58 metres between Mithatpaşa and the hill above.

Tip: The ride is free, every day 08:00 to 24:00. Before the lift there were 155 steps: you can still walk down them.

🚇 bus from Konak along Mithatpaşa, Asansör stop

Featured in: Monumento histórico 1907

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The most photographed street

Dario Moreno Street

Dario Moreno Sokağı · Karataş

The colour-washed street climbing to the Asansör, named for Izmir's Sephardic crooner.

Tip: People live here, it isn't a film set: keep your voice down and don't point the camera into open windows.

🚇 bus from Konak along Mithatpaşa, Asansör stop

Featured in: Calle histórica de Karataş

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Karataş's grand synagogue

Beth Israel Synagogue

Bet İsrail Sinagogu · Karataş

Karataş's grand 1905 synagogue, built by the Sephardic community with the Sultan's permission.

Tip: It is an active synagogue: visits by appointment with ID only, never on Shabbat or a festival.

🚇 bus from Konak along Mithatpaşa, Asansör stop

Featured in: Sinagoga 1905

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1625, martyrdom frescoes

St. Polycarp Church

Saint Polycarpe Kilisesi · Konak

Izmir's oldest Catholic church, built 1625, with frescoes telling Polycarp's martyrdom.

Tip: It sits inside a consular compound: ring the bell and bring your passport, there's no street entry.

🚇 metro Çankaya (M1), a 5-minute walk

Featured in: Iglesia católica 1625

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Alsancak's twin towers

St. John's Cathedral

Aziz Yuhanna Katedrali · Alsancak

An 1874 Catholic cathedral in pale stone, its two towers still shaping the Alsancak skyline.

Tip: It opens around Mass times: Sunday morning is the easiest way to see the inside.

🚇 ferry to Pasaport, a 8-minute walk

Featured in: Catedral católica 1874

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Izmir's mother museum

Izmir Archaeology Museum

İzmir Arkeoloji Müzesi · Konak

Everything dug out of Roman Smyrna and the Aegean: bronzes, mosaics and the Dolabella Poseidon.

Tip: Entry €4, Müzekart valid; it sits in Bahribaba and pairs with the Ethnography Museum next door.

🚇 metro Konak (M1), a 5-minute walk

Featured in: Museo estatal · Kültür ve Turizm Bakanlığı

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Lost Aegean crafts

Izmir Ethnography Museum

İzmir Etnografya Müzesi · Konak

An 1831 hospital turned museum: Aegean textiles, Çanakkale ceramics and vanished crafts.

Tip: Each state museum charges separately: the Archaeology ticket does not cover this one.

🚇 metro Konak (M1), a 5-minute walk

Featured in: Museo estatal · Kültür ve Turizm Bakanlığı

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The house on the Kordon

Atatürk Museum

Atatürk Müzesi · Alsancak

The Levantine house on the Kordon where Atatürk stayed, furniture and study left intact.

Tip: Entry is free and it closes Mondays: it's right on the Kordon, so chain it with the walk.

🚇 ferry to Alsancak, a 5-minute walk

Featured in: Casa museo

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Izmir's visual memory

Ahmet Piriştina City Archive & Museum

APİKAM · Konak

The old fire-brigade market turned into the city's visual archive: photos, maps and the Great Fire.

Tip: Free, and the only place where 1922 Smyrna is told with documents instead of legend.

🚇 metro Çankaya (M1), a 4-minute walk

Featured in: Museo municipal · İzmir Büyükşehir Belediyesi

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European art on the Kordon

Arkas Art Center

Arkas Sanat Merkezi · Alsancak

A Kordon mansion holding the Arkas collection of European painting and top-tier temporary shows.

Tip: Free entry, closed Mondays: the best rainy-day plan on the Kordon and almost nobody knows it.

🚇 ferry to Pasaport, a 7-minute walk

Featured in: Centro de arte · Arkas

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Three pavilions, one collection

Izmir Museum of History & Art

İzmir Tarih ve Sanat Müzesi · Kültürpark

Three pavilions inside the Kültürpark: stone, ceramic and metal from the ancient Aegean, well staged.

Tip: It's inside the Kültürpark, so the park is free and you pay only for the museum.

🚇 İZBAN train to Alsancak, a 4-minute walk

Featured in: Museo estatal · Kültür ve Turizm Bakanlığı

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Anatolia's first railway

Izmir Railway Museum

Demiryolu Müzesi · Alsancak

Inside old Alsancak station: locomotives, clocks and Anatolia's first railway, opened 1856.

Tip: It's inside a working station: enter through the hall, and the airport İZBAN leaves from the same platform.

🚇 İZBAN train to Alsancak, right outside

Featured in: Museo ferroviario · TCDD

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1936 art deco

Parachute Tower

Paraşüt Kulesi · Kültürpark

A 1936 parachute-jump tower, an art deco relic of the fair that nobody dares use today.

Tip: You can't climb it: look from the park, and the best shot is backlit with a low sun behind.

🚇 metro Basmane (M1), a 7-minute walk

Featured in: Monumento art déco 1936

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The Levantines of Bornova

Edward Whittall Mansion

Edward Whittall Köşkü · Bornova

One of the Whittall dynasty's Levantine mansions, now inside Ege University's campus.

Tip: Bornova's köşks are seen from outside, except the ones the university uses: don't push any doors.

🚇 metro Bornova (M1), a 8-minute walk

Featured in: Mansión levantina s. XIX

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A mansion you can enter

Belhomme Mansion (Atatürk Library)

Belhomme Köşkü · Bornova

A Levantine mansion turned library: you can walk in, sit and read under the original ceilings.

Tip: It's the one Bornova mansion you can enter without special permission: use it.

🚇 metro Bornova (M1), a 10-minute walk

Featured in: Mansión levantina · biblioteca

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Smyrna as a port city

Arkas Maritime History Museum

Arkas Deniz Tarihi Müzesi · Bornova

The 1880 Whittall house packed with ship models, charts and Smyrna's shipowning past.

Tip: Free entry, closed Mondays and Tuesdays: check the day before trekking out to Bornova.

🚇 metro Evka 3 (M1), a 10-minute walk

Featured in: Museo privado · Arkas

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1920s Izmir, close up

Latife Hanım Mansion Memorial House

Latife Hanım Köşkü Anı Evi · Karşıyaka

The house of Latife Uşaklıgil, Atatürk's wife, now a museum on 1920s Izmir.

Tip: It stands in a public park: even if the house is shut, the garden is worth the walk from the pier.

🚇 İZBAN train to Karşıyaka, right outside

Featured in: Casa museo · Karşıyaka Belediyesi

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The city centre's lung

Kültürpark

Kültürpark · Konak

420,000 m² of park in the centre: a lake, huge plane trees, trade fairs and Izmir's real lung.

Tip: By late October the plane trees are gold and it's the best time of year to walk through.

🚇 metro Basmane (M1), a 7-minute walk

Featured in: Parque urbano · İzmir Büyükşehir Belediyesi

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Pines above the gulf

İnciraltı City Forest

İnciraltı Kent Ormanı · Balçova

A pine forest above the gulf, with bike lanes, barbecue pits and the cleanest air on the south shore.

Tip: A proper Turkish picnic park: families arrive with a mangal and a thermos, and Sundays get busy.

🚇 metro Balçova (M1), a 20-minute walk

Featured in: Parque forestal

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The bay from above

Balçova Cable Car

Balçova Teleferik · Balçova

The cable car climbing into the Balçova pine forest, with the whole bay of Izmir opening up below.

Tip: It doesn't run daily: usually Thursday to Sunday, and it shuts in strong wind. Check before heading up.

🚇 metro Fahrettin Altay (M1) then bus 169 to Teleferik

Featured in: Teleférico · İZULAŞ

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A neighbourhood Sunday

Bornova Grand Park

Bornova Büyük Park · Bornova

The park where Bornova spends its Sundays: a pond, ducks, coffee carts and zero tourism.

Tip: Pair it with Bornova's Çarşı: the student bar strip starts two blocks away.

🚇 metro Bölge (M1), a 8-minute walk

Featured in: Parque urbano · Bornova Belediyesi

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Football, running track on the roof

ISONEM Park (Gürsel Aksel Stadium)

ISONEM Park Gürsel Aksel Stadyumu · Konak

Göztepe's home since 2020: 20,756 seats and a 650 m running track that circles the roof.

Tip: Since December 2025 the stadium carries a sponsor name: search ISONEM Park, not just Gürsel Aksel.

🚇 metro Fahrettin Altay (M1), a 7-minute walk

Featured in: Estadio · Göztepe SK

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Direct train into town

Adnan Menderes Airport

Adnan Menderes Havalimanı · Gaziemir

The gateway to the Aegean, with its own İZBAN train dropping you in Alsancak without a taxi.

Tip: The İZBAN leaves from under the domestic terminal and takes about 35 minutes to Alsancak: the cheapest ride there is.

🚇 İZBAN train, Adnan Menderes Havalimanı station

Featured in: Aeropuerto internacional ADB

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Where to eat in Izmir: restaurants

Bib Gourmand inside a han

Ayşa Boşnak Börekçisi

Ayşa Boşnak Börekçisi · Kemeraltı

A Bosnian-Ottoman buffet inside Abacıoğlu Hanı: meat börek, sarma, stews and baklava, all made that day.

Tip: No reservations and dishes run out: get there before 12:30 if you want a real choice.

🚇 metro Çankaya (M1), a 6-minute walk

Featured in: MICHELIN Türkiye 2026 · Bib Gourmand

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Family-run since 1955

Adil Müftüoğlu Uğur Lokantası

Adil Müftüoğlu Uğur Lokantası · Balçova

A family lokanta since 1955, now third generation: counter mezes, spinach with yoghurt, baked sütlaç.

Tip: Everything is cooked fresh each morning and sells out: by 2pm the good dishes are gone.

🚇 metro Çağdaş (M1), a 5-minute walk

Featured in: MICHELIN Türkiye 2026 · Bib Gourmand

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Bib Gourmand on the Kordon

Tavacı Recep Usta Alsancak

Meşhur Tavacı Recep Usta · Alsancak

Erzurum lamb tava and keşkek right on the Kordon: stone-oven cooking with a gulf view.

Tip: Order the lamb tava for two plus the keşkek: those are the two dishes that got it into the guide.

🚇 ferry to Alsancak, a 3-minute walk

Featured in: MICHELIN Türkiye 2026 · Bib Gourmand

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Pick your cut at the counter

Kasap Fuat Alsancak

Kasap Fuat · Alsancak

A butcher turned grill: choose your cut at the counter and they fire it at the next table.

Tip: Book ahead: Alsancak fills from 8pm and there's no bar here to wait at.

🚇 ferry to Alsancak, a 8-minute walk

Featured in: MICHELIN Türkiye 2026 · Selected

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Fish right on the water

Birinci Kordon Balık

Birinci Kordon Balık Restoran · Alsancak

Aegean fish on the Kordon's front row: sea bass, sea bream, calamari and cold mezes with rakı.

Tip: Fish is sold by weight: ask them to weigh the piece and quote you before it hits the grill.

🚇 ferry to Pasaport, a 10-minute walk

Featured in: MICHELIN Türkiye 2026 · Selected

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Italian with a G&M toque

Scappi

Scappi (Swissôtel Büyük Efes) · Alsancak

A hotel Italian that plays for real: fresh pasta and Aegean produce, with a Gault&Millau toque.

Tip: It's inside the hotel but open to all: walk in through the lobby, no need to be a guest.

🚇 ferry to Pasaport, a 4-minute walk

Featured in: MICHELIN Türkiye 2026 · Selected · Gault&Millau 2026 · 1 toque

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The pizza everyone names

Ristorante Pizzeria Venedik

Ristorante Pizzeria Venedik · Alsancak

Izmir's classic Italian pizzeria, half a block off the Kordon, wood-fired dough.

Tip: A small, busy room: book for dinner or come early, before 7:30pm.

🚇 ferry to Pasaport, a 8-minute walk

Featured in: MICHELIN Türkiye 2026 · Selected

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Counter omakase

Roku Sushi Omakase

Roku · Alsancak

Counter omakase in Alsancak using Aegean fish: the city's most serious Japanese bet.

Tip: Few seats, two sittings a night: book days ahead, you can't just drop in.

🚇 ferry to Pasaport, a 5-minute walk

Featured in: Gault&Millau Türkiye 2026 · 1 toque (12/20)

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Pavement meyhane

Agora Meyhanesi

Agora Meyhanesi · Alsancak

An Alsancak meyhane with pavement tables: cold mezes, small fish and rakı into the night.

Tip: You pick mezes off the tray brought to your table: point at three or four and stop, more will come.

🚇 ferry to Alsancak, a 4-minute walk

Featured in: Meyhane clásica de Alsancak

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Live fasıl music

Kalabalık Meyhane

Kalabalık Meyhane · Alsancak

One of the loudest meyhanes on 1453 Sokak: live musicians, fasıl, and the next table singing along.

Tip: Music starts around 9:30pm and it is not background: if you want to talk, sit before 8:30pm.

🚇 ferry to Alsancak, a 4-minute walk

Featured in: Meyhane con fasıl en vivo

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Aegean herbs and rakı

Şımarık Meyhane

Şımarık Meyhane · Alsancak

A small meyhane on 1448 Sokak, Aegean herb mezes and a genuinely long rakı list.

Tip: Otlar, the wild Aegean herbs, are a spring thing: in autumn ask for zeytinyağlı, vegetables in new oil.

🚇 ferry to Alsancak, a 5-minute walk

Featured in: Meyhane de Alsancak

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Rakı facing the sea

Meyhane Sisim

Meyhane Sisim · Alsancak

A Kordon meyhane with outdoor tables and the sea twenty metres off: an izmirli classic.

Tip: In October you can still sit outside, but bring a jacket: after 9pm the gulf wind picks up.

🚇 ferry to Pasaport, a 3-minute walk

Featured in: Meyhane del Kordon

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A meyhane with no tourists

Palavra Meyhane

Palavra Meyhane · Karşıyaka

A neighbourhood meyhane on the north shore, no tourists, meze list written out by hand.

Tip: Almost nobody speaks English: point at the tray and let them recommend, it works out better.

🚇 İZBAN train to Nergiz, a 14-minute walk

Featured in: Meyhane de barrio

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Chios flavours in Izmir

Sakız Alsancak

Sakız · Alsancak

Aegean cooking from the coast opposite: Chian mezes, small fish and olive-oil vegetables.

Tip: One of the few places in Izmir where the zeytinyağlı uses new-harvest oil: ask which one is today's.

🚇 ferry to Pasaport, right outside

Featured in: Cocina egea · prensa gastronómica turca

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Pick your fish off the ice

Veli Usta Körfez

Veli Usta Körfez Restaurant · Alsancak

A Kordon fishmonger-restaurant: choose your fish off the ice and they grill or bake it.

Tip: Autumn brings palamut, Aegean bonito: it's the fish of the season and the best value on the ice.

🚇 ferry to Pasaport, a 4-minute walk

Featured in: Pescado del Egeo · clásico del Kordon

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The Kordon without the bill

Balıkçı Hasan

Balıkçı Hasan · Alsancak

Fried small fish, calamari and cheap mezes half a block from the sea: the Kordon's honest version.

Tip: Order fried hamsi or sardalya: cold-season fish at a fraction of the sea bass price.

🚇 ferry to Pasaport, a 5-minute walk

Featured in: Pescadería de barra

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Fish before the sunset

Olta Balık Bostanlı

Olta Balık · Bostanlı

Fish in Bostanlı, steps from the sunset benches: an open terrace, mezes and north-shore prices.

Tip: Eat here at 16:30 then walk to the Sunset Lounge benches: you land right before the sun drops.

🚇 ferry to Bostanlı, a 9-minute walk

Featured in: Pescado de la orilla norte

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Fish in the Çarşı

Bodrum Bodrum Balıkçısı

Bodrum Bodrum Balıkçısı · Karşıyaka

A fishmonger with tables in Karşıyaka's Çarşı: squid, octopus and the day's catch by the tram.

Tip: It's a fishmonger first, restaurant second: they cook what you buy for a small plate charge.

🚇 ferry to Karşıyaka, a 3-minute walk

Featured in: Pescadería con mesas

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Where the neighbourhood eats

Nokta Balık Pişiricisi

Nokta Balık Pişiricisi · Karabağlar

A Karabağlar neighbourhood fishmonger where locals buy and then eat at the table out back.

Tip: No English menu and none needed: look at the ice, point, and ask the per-kilo price.

🚇 metro Hatay (M1), right outside

Featured in: Pescadería de barrio

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The bazaar's city canteen

Kemeraltı Kent Lokantası

Kemeraltı Kent Lokantası · Kemeraltı

A municipal canteen inside the bazaar: daily stews, soup and rice at canteen prices.

Tip: The cheapest lunch downtown, and the menu changes daily: read the board before you queue.

🚇 metro Çankaya (M1), a 5-minute walk

Featured in: Kent Lokantası · İzmir Büyükşehir Belediyesi

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Charcoal by the clock tower

Çaykovski Ocakbaşı

Çaykovski Ocakbaşı · Konak

A charcoal grill by the clock tower: skewers, liver and bread straight from the oven, fire in front of you.

Tip: Sit at the ocakbaşı counter, not the tables: the point is watching the skewers turn.

🚇 metro Konak (M1), right outside

Featured in: Ocakbaşı del centro

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Hand-chopped kebab

Urfalı Nuri Usta Zırhta Kebap

Urfalı Nuri Usta Zırhta Kebap · Kemeraltı

Hand-chopped Urfa-style kebab in a three-table shop inside the bazaar.

Tip: Zırh is the crescent blade they chop with: order acı (hot) only if you really can take it.

🚇 metro Konak (M1), a 3-minute walk

Featured in: Kebap de Urfa en Kemeraltı

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Wood-fired pide

Alsancak Eski Konak Pide Kebap

Alsancak Eski Konak Pide Kebap · Alsancak

Wood-oven pide and kebab in Alsancak: the quick lunch the people who work here actually use.

Tip: Ask for the kuşbaşılı pide with an egg on top: it's what the next table always orders.

🚇 ferry to Alsancak, a 5-minute walk

Featured in: Pide de horno de leña

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Italian in a Levantine house

Murano's Kitchen Alsancak

Murano's Kitchen · Alsancak

A small Italian in an Alsancak Levantine house: home-made pasta and tables in the inner lane.

Tip: The back lane, Ümran Baradan, is Alsancak's prettiest: come in that way even if it's a detour.

🚇 ferry to Pasaport, a 9-minute walk

Featured in: Italiano de Alsancak

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Soup at any hour

Çorbacı İsmet Usta

Çorbacı İsmet Usta · Alsancak

Soup at all hours near the Kordon: mercimek, işkembe and ezogelin, before or after the rakı.

Tip: İşkembe, tripe soup, is the Turkish hangover cure and gets eaten at dawn, not at noon.

🚇 ferry to Pasaport, a 3-minute walk

Featured in: Çorbacı del Kordon

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Soup on Mithatpaşa

Paşahan Çorbası

Paşahan Çorbası · Balçova

Soups and stews on Mithatpaşa, the obvious stop between Balçova metro and the sea.

Tip: It's three blocks from Adil Müftüoğlu: if the Bib Gourmand's kitchen has closed, this is the honest plan B.

🚇 metro Çağdaş (M1), a 4-minute walk

Featured in: Çorbacı de barrio

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Kumru, Izmir's sandwich

Kumrucu Sabri

Kumrucu Sabri · Kemeraltı

Kumru: the sesame-bread sandwich with tulum cheese, sausage and tomato that Izmir took from Çeşme.

Tip: The kumru was born in Çeşme, not Izmir: it's eaten here daily, but it comes from the peninsula.

🚇 ferry to Pasaport, a 5-minute walk

Featured in: Kumrucu clásico

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Late-night kumru

Kumrucu Musti

Kumrucu Musti · Karantina

A neighbourhood kumrucu on Mithatpaşa, open late and full of people coming off the waterfront.

Tip: Order it with sucuk and toasted kaşar: that's how locals eat it, not loaded with everything.

🚇 metro Hatay (M1), a 8-minute walk

Featured in: Kumrucu de barrio

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Before the ferry crossing

Bostanlı Kumru

Bostanlı Kumru · Karşıyaka

A Bostanlı kumrucu two blocks from the pier: the obligatory stop before taking the ferry.

Tip: It's open when everything else has shut: at midnight there's still a local queue.

🚇 ferry to Bostanlı, a 7-minute walk

Featured in: Kumrucu de Bostanlı

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Söğüş, the most izmirli dish

Söğüşçü Cimbom

Söğüşçü Cimbom · Kemeraltı

Söğüş: cold lamb tongue, brain and cheek rolled into lavaş with tomato and parsley.

Tip: The most izmirli dish there is, and the one tourists skip: order a half and share it the first time.

🚇 metro Konak (M1), a 5-minute walk

Featured in: Söğüşçü del bazar

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Söğüş on the north shore

Bostanlı Söğüşçüsü

Bostanlı Söğüşçüsü · Karşıyaka

The north shore's söğüşçü, with its usual queue and trays of cold meat in full view.

Tip: If you're squeamish, order it dil only (tongue): the mildest cut and the easiest start.

🚇 ferry to Bostanlı, a 8-minute walk

Featured in: Söğüşçü de Bostanlı

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Midye dolma, one by one

Meşhur Midyeci Ahmet

Meşhur Midyeci Ahmet Kokoreç · Karşıyaka

Stuffed mussels one at a time with lemon, plus grilled kokoreç: Bostanlı's street at 2am.

Tip: Stuffed mussels are only safe where they turn over fast: pick the stall with a queue, never the empty one.

🚇 ferry to Bostanlı, a 8-minute walk

Featured in: Midyeci de Bostanlı

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Late-night mussels

İzmir Midye

İzmir Midye · Alsancak

Midye dolma and midye tava in the thick of Alsancak's bar street: the official night filler.

Tip: Charged per mussel and eaten standing: order five, taste, then keep going if you like it.

🚇 ferry to Alsancak, a 6-minute walk

Featured in: Midyeci de Alsancak

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Menemen in a copper pan

Meşhur Menemenci Akın

Meşhur Menemenci Akın & Kahvaltı · Kemeraltı

Copper-pan menemen and a full table-filling Turkish breakfast, around the corner from the Clock Tower.

Tip: Real menemen is barely set and has no onion: if it arrives dry, it isn't the good version.

🚇 metro Konak (M1), a 5-minute walk

Featured in: Menemenci del centro

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Adana kebab off the circuit

Tarihi Adana Kebapçısı

Tarihi Adana Kebapçısı · Şirinyer

Hand-made Adana kebab in Şirinyer, off the tourist circuit, charcoal visible from the door.

Tip: Adana is spicy by definition; if you want it mild, order urfa, the same kebab without chilli.

🚇 İZBAN train to Şirinyer, right outside

Featured in: Kebapçı de barrio

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Where the city runs out

Serkan Hamza Midye ve Balık

Serkan Hamza Midye ve Balık · İnciraltı

Fish and mussels in İnciraltı, where the city ends and the pine wood over the gulf begins.

Tip: Eating fish here is fine, but don't swim: Izmir's inner bay is not safe for bathing.

🚇 metro Dokuz Eylül Üniversitesi Hastanesi (M1) then bus

Featured in: Pescadería de İnciraltı

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Fish beside the wetland

Adabeyi Balık Pişiricisi

Adabeyi Balık Pişiricisi · Mavişehir

A fishmonger-restaurant in Mavişehir: buy by the kilo, they cook it, and you eat beside the wetland.

Tip: You're on the edge of the Gediz delta: flamingos are visible from the path in autumn, but bring binoculars.

🚇 İZBAN train to Mavişehir, a 17-minute walk

Featured in: Pescadería de Mavişehir

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The student meyhane

%100 Meyhane

%100 Meyhane · Bornova

Bornova's student meyhane: cheap, loud and packed with Ege University kids until dawn.

Tip: Bornova is Izmir's cheap night out: half the Alsancak price and twice the young crowd.

🚇 metro Bornova (M1), a 5-minute walk

Featured in: Meyhane universitaria de Bornova

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Specialty coffee in Izmir

The bazaar's tea garden

Tarihi Çay Bahçesi

Tarihi Çay Bahçesi · Kemeraltı

A tea garden inside the bazaar: tulip glasses, okey boards and the hum of Kemeraltı behind you.

Tip: Ask for çay tavşan kanı, 'rabbit's blood': the dark red that means it's brewed right.

🚇 metro Konak (M1), a 3-minute walk

Featured in: Çay bahçesi histórico

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Turkish coffee on hot sand

Kumda Kahve

Kumda Kahve · Kemeraltı

Turkish coffee brewed on hot sand in front of you, lokum on the side and grounds ready to read.

Tip: The fal, reading the grounds, means flipping the cup onto the saucer and waiting: ask if they do it.

🚇 metro Çankaya (M1), a 4-minute walk

Featured in: Türk kahvesi tradicional

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Turkish coffee over embers

Közde Konak Kahvecisi

Közde Konak Kahvecisi · Konak

Turkish coffee over embers facing the square: the cezve goes straight on the coals and comes out properly foamy.

Tip: You order it by sweetness, not with a sugar bowl: sade none, az şekerli a little, orta medium, şekerli sweet.

🚇 metro Konak (M1), right outside

Featured in: Türk kahvesi a la brasa

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Tea delivered on a swinging tray

İkizler Çay Evi

İkizler Çay Evi Korukçu Bülent · Kemeraltı

A bazaar tea house where shopkeepers send for the çay that arrives on a swinging tray.

Tip: Çay costs pennies and comes in rounds: nobody orders one and sits an hour, you order another.

🚇 metro Çankaya (M1), a 6-minute walk

Featured in: Çayevi del bazar

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A real kahvehane

Mumcu Kahvehanesi

Mumcu Kahvehanesi · Konak

A neighbourhood kahvehane on the climb to Kadifekale: men, a backgammon board and tea all day.

Tip: The kahvehane is an older men's space; you're welcome, but it's a local café, not a tourist bar.

🚇 bus 33 Kadifekale–Konak, get off before the castle

Featured in: Kahvehane de barrio

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Tea with Konak in view

Anıt Çay Bahçesi

Anıt Çay Bahçesi · Karşıyaka

A tea garden on Karşıyaka's Yalı Bulvarı, the gulf and Konak's skyline in front of you.

Tip: The north-shore sunset faces west: in late October it happens at 18:15 and it costs nothing.

🚇 ferry to Karşıyaka, a 5-minute walk

Featured in: Çay bahçesi del Kordon de Karşıyaka

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Pavement tea

Beykoz Çaycısı

Beykoz Çaycısı · Bostanlı

A Bostanlı çaycı with plastic chairs on the pavement and tea that arrives before you sit.

Tip: Sahlep season starts now: if it's on the board, order it with cinnamon, Turkey's winter hot drink.

🚇 ferry to Bostanlı, a 7-minute walk

Featured in: Çaycı de Bostanlı

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The old-guard patisserie

Lozan Pastanesi

Lozan Pastanesi · Alsancak

A historic Alsancak patisserie: cake counter, house ice cream and ladies taking tea since forever.

Tip: Ask for şambali, the syrup-soaked semolina cake: the most izmirli sweet, and it barely leaves town.

🚇 ferry to Pasaport, a 11-minute walk

Featured in: Pastane histórica

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A 1952 institution

Sevinç Pastanesi

Sevinç Pastanesi · Alsancak

A classic Izmir pastane since 1952: profiteroles, mille-feuille and a whole generation's sweet breakfast.

Tip: Turkish profiterol isn't the French one: a mound of choux drowned in hot chocolate, and it's for sharing.

🚇 ferry to Alsancak, a 6-minute walk

Featured in: Pastane histórica

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Textbook muhallebici

Bolulu Hasan Usta

Bolulu Hasan Usta Süt Tatlıları · Kemeraltı

A textbook muhallebici: milk puddings, oven sütlaç, kazandibi and tavuk göğsü in the cold case.

Tip: Tavuk göğsü is a sweet pudding made with shredded chicken breast: taste it before you ask, it's better that way.

🚇 metro Konak (M1), a 5-minute walk

Featured in: Muhallebici clásico

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Mastic ice cream

Alaçatı Muhallebicisi

Alaçatı Muhallebicisi · Alsancak

Aegean milk puddings in Alsancak: kazandibi burnt just right and Chios mastic ice cream.

Tip: Sakız is mastic resin from Chios, the island opposite: mastic ice cream is stretchy and slow to melt.

🚇 ferry to Alsancak, a 6-minute walk

Featured in: Muhallebici del Egeo

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Tray baklava

Tarihi Kemeraltı Baklavacısı

Tarihi Kemeraltı Baklavacısı · Kemeraltı

Tray baklava inside the bazaar: pistachio, walnut and syrup cut to order at the counter.

Tip: Baklava is sold by weight, not by piece: ask for 200 grams mixed and eat them as you walk.

🚇 ferry to Konak, a 7-minute walk

Featured in: Baklavacı del bazar

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Künefe that pulls

Kırktat Baklavacıbaşı

Kırktat Baklavacıbaşı · Alsancak

Alsancak baklava and künefe, stretchy cheese and crackling pastry on the same plate.

Tip: Künefe is eaten hot or not at all: if it arrives lukewarm, send it back without guilt.

🚇 ferry to Pasaport, a 11-minute walk

Featured in: Baklavacı de Alsancak

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Gevrek, Izmir's simit

Zeynel Ergin Gevrek Fırını

Zeynel Ergin Gevrek Fırını · Alsancak

The gevrek bakery: what Istanbul calls simit is gevrek here, and it's eaten straight out of the oven.

Tip: It's called gevrek because the word means 'crisp': Izmir's is thinner and drier than Istanbul's simit.

🚇 İZBAN train to Alsancak, a 3-minute walk

Featured in: Fırın de gevrek

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Neighbourhood boyoz and gevrek

Küçük Yalı Gevrek Fırını

Küçük Yalı Gevrek Fırını · Karataş

A Karataş neighbourhood oven: gevrek, boyoz and the smell that drags people in at seven in the morning.

Tip: Boyoz is Sephardic, brought by Jews expelled from Spain: eaten with a hard-boiled egg, and only in Izmir.

🚇 metro Hatay (M1), a 8-minute walk

Featured in: Fırın de boyoz y gevrek

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Morning boyoz

Simit & Boyoz Center

Simit & Boyoz Center · Karşıyaka

Freshly baked morning boyoz in Karşıyaka's Çarşı, right by the tram and the İZBAN station.

Tip: Boyoz sells out mid-morning and isn't replaced: after 11am you won't find it fresh.

🚇 İZBAN train to Karşıyaka, right outside

Featured in: Boyozcu de Karşıyaka

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Ice cream that won't drop

Roma Dondurma

Roma Dondurma · Bostanlı

A Bostanlı ice cream shop with spoon-thick dondurma: the Turkish ice cream that won't fall off the cone.

Tip: Dondurma gets its stretch from salep and mastic: order the sakız flavour, the Aegean one.

🚇 ferry to Bostanlı, a 7-minute walk

Featured in: Dondurmacı de Bostanlı

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Patisserie with a G&M toque

Arpège Patisserie

Arpege Patisserie · Alsancak

An award-winning patisserie with a Gault&Millau toque: French entremets built on Aegean produce.

Tip: The only Izmir patisserie with a guide toque: in autumn they work with Aegean fig and walnut.

🚇 ferry to Alsancak, a 9-minute walk

Featured in: Gault&Millau Türkiye 2026 · 1 toque (12,5/20)

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A real croissant

Léone Patisserie & Boulangerie

Léone Patisserie & Boulangerie · Alsancak

A French boulangerie in Alsancak: a proper croissant, sourdough bread and specialty coffee.

Tip: The European breakfast on this map: after two days of eggs and olives, this is the break.

🚇 ferry to Pasaport, a 10-minute walk

Featured in: Boulangerie de Alsancak

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Third wave with a desk

Awake Coffee & Espresso

Awake Coffee & Espresso · Alsancak

Alsancak third wave in a small house: V60 filter, own roast and wifi that holds up for work.

Tip: Specialty coffee in Izmir almost always shuts at 7pm: it's a daytime culture, not a nightlife one.

🚇 ferry to Pasaport, a 9-minute walk

Featured in: Tercera ola · Alsancak

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Bostanlı roastery

Poka Coffee Roasters

Poka Coffee Roasters · Bostanlı

A Bostanlı roastery with a dedicated filter bar and single-origin beans that change every week.

Tip: Bostanlı has Izmir's densest cluster of roasteries: three within two blocks, try two of them.

🚇 ferry to Bostanlı, a 4-minute walk

Featured in: Tercera ola · Bostanlı

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Nordic on the Aegean

Uggla Coffee

Uggla Coffee · Bostanlı

A Scandinavian café in Bostanlı: light roasts, a long wooden table and the quiet Alsancak lacks.

Tip: It's right next to Poka: if one is full, you walk through the next door and that's that.

🚇 ferry to Bostanlı, a 4-minute walk

Featured in: Tercera ola · Bostanlı

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Own roast in Bostanlı

Roast and Found Co.

Roast and Found Co. · Bostanlı

A small Bostanlı roastery with an espresso bar and the day's pastry baked on the premises.

Tip: Combine it with the sunset: five minutes from the Sunset Lounge benches, and it closes early.

🚇 ferry to Bostanlı, a 8-minute walk

Featured in: Tercera ola · Bostanlı

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A proper barista bar

Two Cups Coffee Bar & Roastery

Two Cups Coffee Bar & Roastery · Alsancak

A roastery on Kıbrıs Şehitleri: cold brew, filters and the best counter for talking to the barista.

Tip: Kıbrıs Şehitleri is Alsancak's shopping street: cafés on one side, shops on the other, pedestrian in practice.

🚇 ferry to Alsancak, a 5-minute walk

Featured in: Tercera ola · Alsancak

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Alsancak brunch

Soulmate Coffee

Soulmate Coffee · Alsancak

An Alsancak specialty café with brunch and outdoor tables whenever the Aegean sun allows.

Tip: Turkish brunch is huge and meant for sharing: order one for two, not one each, or you won't finish.

🚇 ferry to Alsancak, a 6-minute walk

Featured in: Tercera ola · Alsancak

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Beans to take home

OK Co. Roastery

OK Co. Roastery · Alsancak

An Alsancak roastery selling beans to go: the best way to carry the Aegean home in your bag.

Tip: Ask for it ground only if you'll drink it within days: whole beans survive the trip far better.

🚇 İZBAN train to Alsancak, a 4-minute walk

Featured in: Tostadero de especialidad

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Student-priced third wave

Zulu Coffee Roastery Bornova

Zulu Coffee Roastery · Bornova

A roastery in the university quarter: student prices, serious roasts and tables always taken.

Tip: Bornova has Izmir's cheapest coffee scene: the same filter costs half what it does in Alsancak.

🚇 metro Bornova (M1), a 6-minute walk

Featured in: Tercera ola · Bornova

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Izmir's own third wave

Pablo Artisan Coffee

Pablo Artisan Coffee · Fahrettin Altay

A local roast-your-own chain: Izmir's third wave, with branches all around the gulf.

Tip: It's attached to the Fahrettin Altay transfer hub: the best coffee you'll get before a long bus.

🚇 metro Fahrettin Altay (M1), right outside

Featured in: Tercera ola · cadena izmirli

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A café 58 metres up

Tarihi Asansör Kafe

Tarihi Asansör Kafe · Karataş

The café at the top of the Asansör: a terrace 58 metres above Karataş with the whole gulf in front.

Tip: The lift is free, but the good terrace belongs to the café: order a tea and the view is identical.

🚇 bus from Konak along Mithatpaşa, Asansör stop

Featured in: Café mirador del Asansör

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Turkish coffee ground to order

Alsancak Kurukahvecisi

Alsancak Kurukahvecisi · Alsancak

An old-style Turkish coffee roaster: ground fine to order and sold in a paper bag.

Tip: Turkish coffee needs a powder grind, finer than espresso: ask for it ground for cezve, not for filter.

🚇 ferry to Alsancak, a 4-minute walk

Featured in: Kurukahveci clásico

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Shopping in Izmir: where to shop

New oil, straight from source

Tariş

Tariş · Kemeraltı

The Aegean farmers' co-op shop: olive oil, olives and figs straight from the growers.

Tip: We're mid-harvest: ask for erken hasat, early-harvest oil, which comes out bitter and green.

🚇 metro Konak (M1), right outside

Featured in: Cooperativa Tariş · aceite del Egeo

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Olive-oil soap

Ayvalık Sabuncusu

Ayvalık Sabuncusu · Kemeraltı

Hand-cut, cured Ayvalık olive-oil soap: the souvenir that doesn't weigh anything or break.

Tip: Real soap is dull green and smells of olive, not perfume: the white scented bar is industrial.

🚇 metro Konak (M1), a 3-minute walk

Featured in: Jabonería tradicional del Egeo

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A spice aktar

Rahîk-i Mahtûm

Rahîk-i Mahtûm · Kemeraltı

A bazaar aktar: Aegean spices, dried herbs, teas and jars still weighed by hand.

Tip: Buy Aegean oregano and thyme, the ones worth it: cheap bazaar 'saffron' is never saffron.

🚇 metro Konak (M1), right outside

Featured in: Aktar de Kemeraltı

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The blue eye, in glass

Ege Boncuk

Ege Boncuk · Konak

Hand-blown nazar boncuğu: the blue eye against the evil eye, in every size you can imagine.

Tip: Blown glass has bubbles and weight; the shiny light plastic one breaks before you get home.

🚇 metro Konak (M1), right outside

Featured in: Artesanía de vidrio

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22-carat gold by weight

Tolgahan Tahtacı Jewellery Workshop

Tolgahan Tahtacı Mücevher Tasarım Atölyesi · Kemeraltı

A jewellery workshop in the gold quarter: own designs and the 22-carat Turkish gold sold by weight.

Tip: In Turkey gold is priced per gram at the day's rate: ask to see the scale and the posted rate.

🚇 metro Çankaya (M1), right outside

Featured in: Kuyumcu del bazar

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Shopping without the chaos

Pirinç Han

Pirinç Center · Kemeraltı

The rice han turned shopping arcade: the tidiest stretch of Kemeraltı for buying without chaos.

Tip: The bazaar hans close on Sundays and are the shelter when it rains: open-air Kemeraltı is impossible wet.

🚇 metro Çankaya (M1), a 5-minute walk

Featured in: Han comercial

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Turkish textiles by weight

Çuha Bedesteni

Cuha Bedesteni · Kemeraltı

The cloth bedesten: fabric by the metre, table linen and Turkish cotton hamam towels sold by weight.

Tip: The peştemal, the thin hamam towel, takes no suitcase space and dries better than a normal towel.

🚇 metro Çankaya (M1), a 4-minute walk

Featured in: Bedesten textil

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Second-hand Smyrna

Antik İzmir

Antik İzmir · Kemeraltı

A Kemeraltı antique dealer: samovars, pocket watches, Smyrna postcards and Ottoman coins.

Tip: Anything over a century old cannot legally leave Turkey: get a receipt stating the date of make.

🚇 metro Çankaya (M1), a 5-minute walk

Featured in: Anticuario

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Anatolian kilims

Klas Halı

Klas Halı · Alsancak

A carpet and kilim shop near the Kordon, with Anatolian and Aegean pieces hung on the wall.

Tip: There is no Turkish state seal for carpets: trust no label, flip the piece over and count the knots.

🚇 ferry to Pasaport, a 4-minute walk

Featured in: Halı y kilim

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Where Turkish fashion stocks up

Mimar Kemalettin Fashion Centre

Mimar Kemalettin Moda Merkezi · Kemeraltı

Izmir's textile street: tailors, fabric by the metre and where Turkish fashion actually stocks up.

Tip: Most of it is wholesale: ask for the retail price up front and don't be surprised by minimums.

🚇 metro Çankaya (M1), right outside

Featured in: Barrio textil

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Alsancak's main drag

Kıbrıs Şehitleri Caddesi

Kıbrıs Şehitleri Caddesi · Alsancak

Alsancak's shopping street: Turkish brands, cafés, perfumeries and people at every hour.

Tip: Turkish clothing and perfume brands are good and cheap against Europe: this is where you buy them.

🚇 ferry to Alsancak, a 5-minute walk

Featured in: Calle comercial

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Turkish design, signed

Dükkan Design

Dükkan Design · Alsancak

A contemporary Turkish design shop: ceramics, textiles and signed objects made in country.

Tip: The souvenir that doesn't look like one: signed Kütahya or Avanos ceramics, not the bazaar copy.

🚇 ferry to Alsancak, right outside

Featured in: Diseño turco contemporáneo

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Second-hand bookshop

Doğan Kitabevi Sahaf

Doğan Kitabevi - Sahaf · Alsancak

An Alsancak second-hand bookshop: out-of-print Turkish editions, old maps and Smyrna postcards.

Tip: There are three sahafs in a row on 1440 Sokak: go into all three, each has its own specialty.

🚇 ferry to Alsancak, a 6-minute walk

Featured in: Sahaf de Alsancak

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Old books in the bazaar

Ferligül Sahaf

Ferligül Sahaf · Kemeraltı

A sahaf inside the bazaar: books stacked to the ceiling and that old-paper smell you can't manufacture.

Tip: Ask for Smyrna postcards and photos: cheap, light, and the most personal souvenir you'll take home.

🚇 metro Konak (M1), a 3-minute walk

Featured in: Sahaf del bazar

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Real bağlama and ud

Zuhal Müzik

Zuhal Müzik · Konak

Turkish instruments on Gazi Bulvarı: bağlama, ud and darbuka, with someone always playing in-store.

Tip: An aluminium darbuka fits in hand luggage and is the easiest instrument here to start playing.

🚇 İZBAN train to Basmane, a 4-minute walk

Featured in: Instrumentos musicales turcos

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Tulum and Aegean cheeses

Dikili Özkan Peynircilik

Dikili Özkan Peynircilik · Bostanlı

An Aegean cheese shop in Bostanlı: tulum, lor, çeçil and the goat cheese that defines Turkish breakfast.

Tip: Tulum ages in a goatskin and is the kumru cheese: ask for it vacuum-sealed for the trip.

🚇 İZBAN train to Nergiz, a 7-minute walk

Featured in: Quesería del Egeo

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The north-shore market

Bostanlı Market

Karşıyaka Belediyesi Bostanlı Pazar Yeri · Karşıyaka

Bostanlı's street market: Aegean vegetables, loose olives, cheeses and the hawkers' racket.

Tip: It's a weekly market, not a permanent one: check the day before crossing the bay for it.

🚇 ferry to Bostanlı, a 16-minute walk

Featured in: Pazar semanal · Karşıyaka Belediyesi

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Fleas and castoffs

Bit Pazarı Flea Market

Bit Pazarı · Konak

Izmir's flea market: furniture, records, tools and the whole city's castoffs.

Tip: Haggle without guilt and bring cash: almost no stall takes cards.

🚇 metro Çankaya (M1), a 4-minute walk

Featured in: Mercado de pulgas

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New-harvest olives

Üçkuyular Market

Üçkuyular Pazarı · Balçova

A southern Izmir neighbourhood market: Aegean fruit, pickles and olives from the harvest just in.

Tip: November's new olives are still bitter: they cure for weeks, so buy last season's to eat now.

🚇 metro Balçova (M1), a 7-minute walk

Featured in: Pazar semanal

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Spices ground to order

Değirmen Baharat

Değirmen Baharat · Bornova

A Bornova spice merchant: Urfa pepper, sumac, Aegean zahter and blends ground to order.

Tip: Buy sumac and pul biber: the two Turkish spices you'll genuinely use once you're home.

🚇 metro Bornova (M1), a 11-minute walk

Featured in: Aktar de Bornova

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The Aegean's premium mall

İstinyePark İzmir

İstinyePark İzmir · Balçova

Izmir's premium mall, with the luxury labels you won't find anywhere else on the Aegean.

Tip: Filo d'Olio by chef Danilo Zanna is here, with two Gault&Millau toques: the best mall food in Izmir.

🚇 metro Fahrettin Altay (M1), a 4-minute walk

Featured in: Centro comercial premium

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An open-street mall

MaviBahçe

MaviBahçe · Mavişehir

An open-air mall in Mavişehir: pedestrian lanes, terraces and the format locals treat as a promenade.

Tip: It's open-air: useless in rain, but on an October afternoon it's the north shore's best stroll.

🚇 İZBAN train to Mavişehir, a 16-minute walk

Featured in: Centro comercial a cielo abierto

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Karşıyaka's mall

Hilltown Karşıyaka

Hilltown Karşıyaka · Karşıyaka

The north shore's mall, with a food court, a cinema, a supermarket and all the usual Turkish brands.

Tip: It has a big supermarket open late: the place to sort water and supplies before the hotel.

🚇 İZBAN train to Mavişehir, a 12-minute walk

Featured in: Centro comercial

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Bornova's big mall

Forum Bornova

Forum Bornova · Bornova

East Izmir's biggest mall, with an open courtyard, a cinema and Bornova's student crowd.

Tip: The natural stop if you're coming from Yeşilova Höyük: ten minutes away and it sorts lunch.

🚇 metro Bornova (M1), a 11-minute walk

Featured in: Centro comercial

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Outlet on the airport road

İzmir Optimum

İzmir Optimum · Gaziemir

A big outlet on the airport road: Turkish and international brands at genuine seasonal discounts.

Tip: It's on the İZBAN airport line: with hours to kill before a flight, get off here and rejoin the train.

🚇 İZBAN train to Gaziemir, a 18-minute walk

Featured in: Outlet

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Turkish Aegean wine

Mahal Bomonti Sensus

Mahal Bomonti Sensus · Halkapınar

An Aegean wine shop in the old Bomonti brewery: Urla, Bozcaada and Turkish grapes nobody knows.

Tip: Ask for a Boğazkere red or a Narince white: native grapes that barely leave the country.

🚇 metro Halkapınar (M1), a 7-minute walk

Featured in: Vinoteca del Egeo

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